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Replacing The Hotend with E3D

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Lance Weston, Nov 13, 2019.

  1. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    The E3D is a little longer than the Robo hotend. The E3D also comes with a 3950 thermistor which is very close to the Robo thermistor. I posted https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3180056 a shroud that takes into account the E3D increased length. The posting also includes a new hex file to be uploaded that has the 3950 thermistor table and decreases the z axis length to accommodate the E3D. Also included is the original hex so that you can go back. Just change the connectors and you are in business.
     
    #1 Lance Weston, Nov 13, 2019
  2. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    Thank you. My hotend is giving me issues and I very well might get rid of the hex and go with the E3. Are there any specific E3D hot ends I need to look at, or is there only one for the 1.75 filament size ?
     
    #2 supercazzola, Nov 18, 2019
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Should just be the actual E3D v6 hotened I would imagine. @Lance Weston can be more specific.
     
    #3 mark tomlinson, Nov 18, 2019
  4. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    I purchase hotends from eBay. The R2 uses 1.75 filament. You are looking for short, Wade hotends. They come in 24v or 12v and it depends on whether I am looking for fans or heaters which one I buy. You have to patch the connectors from your old hotend or order the connectors and a crimping tool. The nozzles below are what I use. They are just the right length to go through the hole in the metal plate. I like to make the metal plate out of old tin cans.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MNYZ2KK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_title

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Printer...var=522077980870&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
     
    #4 Lance Weston, Nov 18, 2019
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  5. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    I just set up my R2 with the E3D with a glass plate. I used a grinder to take down the plastic in the bed in 4 places as the plastic does not add mechanical support. I also had to make a different shroud to clear the clamps. A 9 3/16 to 9 1/4 square plate is a good size.
     

    Attached Files:

    #5 Lance Weston, Nov 19, 2019
  6. Omar Basha

    Omar Basha New Member

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    Hi All, just throwing my 5c in. I printed the above mentioned shroud, was no-where near big enough for the e3d I got. I did a simpler solution... Think someone else or I mentioned it elsewhere on the forum. Simply use longer bolts with washers to lower the shroud assembly... quick easy and cheap.
     
    #6 Omar Basha, Dec 9, 2019
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  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You may not have gotten an actual E3D -- the Chinese clones (that label themselves E3D v6) are not the same sizes.
    Still, good observation for others in that same boat.
     
    #7 mark tomlinson, Dec 9, 2019
  8. Omar Basha

    Omar Basha New Member

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    @mark, Lol I figured that out retrospectively. Only one shop in South Africa keeps the original and they are literally a 1000 miles away on the West Coast. When I seen this one, I was in the shop and had it in my hand so just took it.
     
    #8 Omar Basha, Dec 9, 2019
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  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Some folks choose to get the knock-off/clones because the price matters and -- I get that.
    It can be expensive and outside the states even more so and HARD to locate one if you did want it.

    There is nothing evil about the Chinese clones as long as you know what you are getting. They may function quite well for an extended period of time. The differences between them and the E3D are quality and construction specific (cheaper materials in spots and the heatbreak is not engineered the same). If all you want is an inexpensive hotend that works, they are fine. If you had to replace one you could do that a few times for the difference in price :)

    I suggest if you can get an E3D that you do when you replace simply because it is a better product, but better is not always the key in choosing :)
     
    #9 mark tomlinson, Dec 9, 2019
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  10. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    The shroud is made for the wade, short E3D. Pictured is me tuning a new filament.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Printer...var=522077980870&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
     

    Attached Files:

    #10 Lance Weston, Dec 9, 2019
  11. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    The Shroud is for a E3D WADE short.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/232553410177
    I use MK8 nozzles with a 10mm thick heater block

    If you need a longer shroud, let me know how much longer and I will supply and STL
     
    #11 Lance Weston, Feb 28, 2022

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