1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

PLA "high performance" PLA 230 degrees?

Discussion in 'Printing Filament' started by joea, May 21, 2020.

  1. joea

    joea Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2019
    Messages:
    351
    Likes Received:
    51
    I found a spool of "Raptor series" PLA natural, that say "High performance, 230" degrees on the label. So that it what I set it at.

    About 2 hours into the print I started noticing "fuzzies" on the perimeter of the print. I experimented a bit with temperature but found some layers were not adhering, I abandoned that print as I knew of no way to "back up" a few layers and resume.

    Today, after some experimenting I settled on 225 as a suitable temp and that seemed to go fine for a couple hours. Then I realized the print was not "growing" and found a filament jam. It was stuck so well, I though I had a cold hot end, despite what the display was telling me. Careful application of the Mark 1 Humanoid Temperature Sensor proved that was incorrect. And painful.

    Once I cleared that up, I did some testing, by hand pushing various PLA filaments and found they all extruded fine at 225.

    So, now I wonder what caused this jam. I've read some conflicting things about oiling PLA. I do have an oiler on it, but it has been a while since I added any.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    I have not personally tested it, but I am going to guess that hotter is better but you may find getting to sweet spot hard.

    The trick is annealing it after you print it. That gives it the extra strngth
     
  4. joea

    joea Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2019
    Messages:
    351
    Likes Received:
    51
    That's the stuff. It's in natural, not white. It may be this spool has some dimensional issues which is causing the jams. No telling how long or how it was stored before I got it. That is the only reported issue I saw in that thread.

    This part is only for the LCD case, Closest I had to white to sorta match the printer case. It does not need to be all that strong.

    And, this stuff says "dishwasher safe", so I can use if for that first dishwasher part I designed and never put to use. Could not decide how to proceed.
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  5. joea

    joea Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2019
    Messages:
    351
    Likes Received:
    51
    Well, seems they, or he, has been out of business for some years now. A lot of what is here is that from MakerGeeks.

    As to this stuff, I cannot get even a small print to complete properly. Get a jam at some point. While the diameter appear consistent, the filament itself is a bit "wavy" or "squiggly", While not pronounced the waviness is visible to the eye and seems some of the "waves" are a bit tight enough to present resistance while being pushed into the extruder.

    However, I just attempted to insert some other filament into the extruder, when this stuff resisted, when I reoiled the oiler for another go.
    That gave me some resistance and felt "rough" being pushed in, so, perhaps I never really cleared the first jam completely.

    I'll give a look for how to get around that problem.
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    23,912
    Likes Received:
    7,338
    Depends on why it jammed (heat creep, bad filament diameter, improper feed rate/speeds/nozzle settings) but worst case you can clear any clog by disassembling the hotend and baking it at 500°F for 15 minutes or so. Disassemble it as much as you can so that you can bake all the parts (remove nozzle and heat break from heater block and bake them). if you prop the heat break and nozzle at a bit of an angle on a pan (using tin foil to prop them) the old filament will run out. When cool you can reassemble.

    However a spare hotend that is ready to "drop in" is quicker and then you can take you time about cleaning the other one.

    As for the filament, it should not have visible ripples, waves or deformations in it.
     

Share This Page