R2 upgrade to Ramps 1.4/Mega 2560

I'm replacing the dead R2 main board with a Ramps 1.4/Mega 2560. I've modified it to handle 24v and keeping the R2 Hotend and heated bed. Everything moves and heats up at least on my test bench. I added a breakout board to get to the connections on the extruder cable. I want use the original IR sensor and have the ground and 5v/vcc figured out. But I need to know where to connect the ir sensor signal wire on to the Ramps board. Also what to set the Z_Min_Pin to in the Arduino code.

Thanks for your help.

 

I have done this and it is completely working. Jonah at Partsbuilt.com is working on a Rev 2 board that holds the power supplies and Ramps boards. If you are handy you could contact Jonah@Partsbuilt.com and see if he will sell you one of the first prototype boards. I have attached a schematic of what need to be done, I have posted the code but will post it here if you need me to.

What died on your board? If it is the 12v I can show you how to fix it, if one of the stepper drivers died I posted how swap E1 for it as well.

 

This is beautiful. It solves two of my problems. I was trying to use Z_MIN for both. It looks like you set are using the Z_MAX pin which makes sense, and using the 3 pin connections to the IR board. I'm trying to find your post of the code but not having much luck. Could you post the link and I'll get it from there. I am pleasantly surprised that I figured out almost everything but with different components. I plan on posting my version with parts info when I get this up and running.

 

Code Link: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1MIHvjxAhmud3U-bzGe7C_a7gyyO3BgAN

This code also gives you a bit more clearance on the print head to bed so that you can use an E3D hotend.

 

The Ramps board does not respond well to the GND for the hotend thermister being on the downtown board. It gives poor temp regulation. The solution is to use an isolated GND thermister on the downtown board. This is done by pulling the plastic shrouds off of .thermisters 0 and 1 on the downtown board. Now use a diamond bit in a dremel and isolate the GND of T0 top and bottom on the downtown board by cutting the GND plane down to the fiberglass. Verify that the GND is isolated with a meter. Now put back on the plastic shroud for T0 and T1 and solder the isolated GND pin of T0 to the hot pin of T1. You can see on the schematic I posted that I run the two hots to the thermister input for T0. Alternately you can contact Jonah at Partsbuilt.com. He made some boards for me that have a jumper on the downtown board to isolate the GND and transfer the GND of T0 to the hot of T1. I use his boards rather than modify mine now.

 

Lance, I am using the ZylTech ramps 1.4 board for my upgrade from the R2 mainboard. It appears that the D9 pin is permanently on when the power is on. I think I am missing something. Can the d9 be controlled from the Arduino code? If so how. Thanks.

I sorted this out. The MOSfet for the D9 is defective. It reads low resistance across all connections compared to the other MOSfets.

 

I use the D9 pin. What code are you using. I had sent you code that reconfigured the I/O to use the D9 correctly. If the code is correct, I have found that the three TO220 fets sometimes short together leaving an output on permanently. The first thing I do with my Ramps 1.4 boards is to put RTV between the fets so they can not short.

 

was the info in your zip file for "Marlin-R2 Partsbuilt-E3D-PID fix" and does it use d8 for the fan and d9 for the bed heater?
If so, all of my checks were based on the EFB designations rather than the Robomb and it fell thru a hole in my thinking.

 

Yes that code has all of the ports correct to the schematic I attached. D8 fans, D9 Bed. It also fixs some other small thing like PID tuning and bed height.