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Printer error Bed not heating up

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Omegagundam, Nov 19, 2017.

  1. Shrey

    Shrey Active Member

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    So far I’m getting really nice prints with it, i did however disabled the auto calibration and did full manual calibration. After which the parts stick everything I’ve been printing like that for last 4 days and haven’t had any issues with any of my prints


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  2. undefined

    undefined New Member

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    I'm curious to know how this worked out for you. I noticed the board connector you posted is only rated for 3 amps.

    Both of my connectors are showing evidence of thermal damage (the cable connector is partially melted in the middle; the bed connector has some whitening of the plastic in the same area and oxidation on the pins). Replacing both connectors seems to be necessary, as I've started getting bed heating connection errors every time I try to start a run, but I'm wondering if replacing with the same parts is a long term solution. Thanks so much for posting all the part numbers!!!
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    While I do not have an R2 I do have a number of printers with heated beds and I have converted most of them to using Anderson Power Pole connectors. Deans connectors are another good alternative. Both come in high amperage ratings (I use 15a power pole minimum and often the 30a ones)
     
  4. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    The difference between the 15 A Anderson Poles and the 30 A Anderson Poles is the size of wire which would be used with the connectors. The surface contact between two connectors is the same. So basically, the 15 A rating is actually a 30 A rating sized for a smaller diameter wire.
     
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  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Exactly, just the size of the feed wire :) They can be crimped, but I usually solder those in place as well.
     
  6. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    Mark, can you snap a photo of one of your conversions. Anderson power poles are quite “fat” so the idea of 8 of them seems like something to get tangled up as the bed moves. I just can’t get my mind around how the finished product would look.

    Thanks


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  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    PowerPoles connect/lock to each other so I ended up with a flat pack 4-wide :) I will get you a photo next time I am at the shop.
    You can space that far enough from the bed that it actually mounts on the side or under the printer.
     
  8. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    yeah, I use them all the time for amateur radio, but I'm having a hard time visualizing it so you solder to the bottom of the V2 bed with small jumper wires, to Anderson PP, then APP to end of your ribbon cable ?

    Maybe I just need the pinouts of what is on each of the 8 cables in the ribbon on the R2. Are you suggesting that they use multiple conductors to give better current capability, and there are only 4 needed?
     
  9. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Anderson Poles can be interlocked to form "flat packs" like @mark tomlinson is stating. Plus, Anderson Poles are good to 30 amperes of current if the correct sized contacts are used.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You can go as high as 45 amps with the larger contacts. I have mine in a 4 across flat pack for the bed (I didn't use the 45 amp -- just the 30 amp). I will get a pic tomorrow and post it.

    The ribbon cable actually only has two signals (heated bed power and thermsitor signal) it is just spread across more wires to reduce the current on any single pair. The older models had two wires for the heater and the thermistor. A few of those had "problems"* and they swapped to the alternative approach with the later R1 and the R1+


    *as in they had an electrical fire and got melty
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I just used a higher gauge (12) two wire pair for the bed heater and left the thermistor at 20 gauge
     
  12. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    Are the pinouts documented somewhere ? I like this approach to switch to APP next time i have issues


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  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I can tell you what pins on the RAMPS go where (I can post you a wire connection diagram) the ribbon cable you can just trace and see where they landed the wires (i.e. which ones go to power the heater) I can just get you some pictures of mine. I used this all to wire in a new (R1+ style) bed so the wires there are identical as are the ones on the RAMPS. The only difference is that I also added a MOSFET board to power the bed heater directly from a 12v power supply and not from the RAMPS output.
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The RAMPS is rated at 11 amps on that bed heater output, but often the bed heater wants slightly more (as much as 13) and over time it will wear out and blow the MOSFET for the bed output on the RAMPS.
     

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