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Amazon Sain Smart Lead Screws

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by Marquis Johnson, Nov 8, 2015.

  1. Marquis Johnson

    Marquis Johnson Active Member

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    The Robo 3d upgrade kit was...has been...and still is out of stock, so I got some sain smarts to work.
    The Quality increase is INSANE! Highly recommend this upgrade.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    I'll have a video on Wednesday with a step by step.
     
    Sonny's Robo3D and Mike Kelly like this.
  2. Marcus T

    Marcus T Member

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    I mentioned this on the youtube video, but just so people here can see it as well:

    http://www.mpja.com/3D-Printer-Stepper-Motor-with-T8-Leadscrew-300mm/productinfo/32386 MI/
    It says that it's a 300mm lead screw, but the data sheet says that actual length is 320mm, and effective thread length:~275mm. That's more than the one on Amazon, but still not truly 300mm. Doing it this way will save you ~$30 compared to the out-of-stock upgrade that Robo is selling (~$24 less than the Amazon ones), but it will require the same mod that Marquis used. Quick print to make the parts needed. Mike Kelly also has an adapter designed for this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:764780
    You will need to check, and possibly change, the wiring. This is also described in the video.
     
  3. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    I did the leadscrews upgrade from Robo and didn't get the speed improvement on the z like you did. I just reflashed the firmware with the one from Robo for the upgrade. Curious to know what values you changed in the firmware to get it to go so fast. Especially the auto level routine.
     
  4. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    Nice video. The reason I had Mike Kelly make that leadscrew adapter for me was so I didn't lose any of the z height like you mentioned. With his adapter you get the same height as stock with the amazon leadscrews. Also thanks for finding the pin configuration for the amazon leadscrews. I didn't have aa multimeter which is why I did the swapping of the guts like I did for them. Glad to see that you finally took the plunge for them. I have had mine for about 7 months and they are still going strong.
     
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  5. Marquis Johnson

    Marquis Johnson Active Member

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    To increase the speed of the motors:
    (Configuration.h)
    #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {X, Y, 400, E} //400 is Z
    #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {X, Y, 25, E} //25 is Z
    #define HOMING_FEEDRATE {X, Y, 20*60, E} //20*60 is Z
    (Configuration_adv.h)
    #define MANUAL_FEEDRATE {X, Y, 25*60, E} //25*60 is Z

    For faster bed leveling (2:08 of this video)
     
  6. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    @Marquis Johnson Thanks for the tips. I am installing an IR and having to run autolevel over and over while testing. I'm hoping this helps. Should it change anything with normal printing or just the autolevel travel?

    I did all your recommended changes above except the following because I think you have the TR8*8 and I have the TR8*4 from Robo. I didn't know if I should keep mine as defined to 800 or not since yours is 8mm per rotation and mine is only half at 4mm per rotation. Just wanted a double check before changing it.

    (Configuration.h)
    #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {X, Y, 400, E} //400 is Z

    Here are the other settings for fast autolevel that you mentioned in the video
    #define XY_TRAVEL_SPEED 30000 // X and Y axis travel speed between probes, in mm/min - original default 8000

    #define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_PROBING 2 //How much the extruder will be raised before traveling to the first probing point. - original default 15
    #define Z_RAISE_BETWEEN_PROBINGS 2 //How much the extruder will be raised when traveling from between next probing points - original default 5

    EDIT: Freaky fast autolevel. Regular printing seems fine. Awesome. Thank you!
     
    #6 danzca6, Dec 4, 2015
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2015
  7. JoshYourITGuy

    JoshYourITGuy Active Member

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    Just completed this on one of my printers, all I have to say is WOW!
    Z-Ribbing is a thing of the past.
    Time to order another pair.

    I also commented on the YouTube video that I used your link to Amazon and either I got a product from another seller, or they updated their product.

    Mine did not have the ball end, just flat.
    Mine had brass nuts instead of delrin (just had to file your adapters a tiny bit to get them to fit)
    And my wiring was correct, but the steppers ran backwards, easy fix, just had to flip the connectors 180 degrees on the RAMPS board.
     
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  8. PACNOR RC AEROSYSTEMS

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    Man I am glad you are here brother. I watch you videos on YouTube and the way you showed me how to level my bed helped tremendously!!!
     
  9. JoshYourITGuy

    JoshYourITGuy Active Member

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    I did all your recommended changes above except the following because I think you have the TR8*8 and I have the TR8*4 from Robo. I didn't know if I should keep mine as defined to 800 or not since yours is 8mm per rotation and mine is only half at 4mm per rotation. Just wanted a double check before changing it.


    Yes, you want to go with 800 instead of 400.
    http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/
     
  10. ssshake

    ssshake Member

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    Today I just upgraded my robo3d r1 to lead screws following your youtube video. Now I've increased the Z speed following your instructions. But I am getting increased acceleration on the X and Y as a result during homing (G28).

    The issue seems to be described here exactly, but no one ever came up with a solution.

    http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/changing-vmax-and-amax-z-affects-x-and-y.9073/

    You did this mod on the same printer, same settings presumable. Did you not have this issue during g28? The observed behavior is that increasing Z's default max feedrate to 25 (or anything really) for some reason casues the X and Y to move very fast when trying to go back to center during G28, just before homing the Z axis.
     

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