Unresolved Print keeps failing

I am having an issue with prints failing between the 2nd and maybe 20th layer (normally on the earlier side). I tried the same print 3-4 times yesterday and they all failed (the amount of layers decreased each time).

I was able to complete a much smaller print after that.

I read through the forum about failed prints and and exported the g code from matter control with the fan speeds adjusted thinking maybe there was a temp fault. I also put it on a new SD card in case there was an issue there. I also checked all of the connectors

I ran that new g code and it worked over night (9hr print).

I tried another, larger, print this morning, off of the older SD card and the same thing started to happen. So I exported a new g code to the new SD card and nothing changed, still stopped early on. I wiggled all the wires again and still not working.

I was able to see the failure this last time. I heard all of the fans shut down and watched the screen go blank, it stayed blue but all text disappeared.

I was thinking that maybe it had to do with the electrical in my house so I switched it to an unused refrigerator outlet (all by itself on the breaker). Maybe there is still a voltage drop issue and that is why it worked through the night? What can the power supply typically compensate for? Should I upsize the power supply to be safe? I would rather just replace parts 1 by 1 then do tests.

The only modifications I have made to my printer (R1+) is the addition of the screen including the legs. The printer is in my basement so it is around 60°-65° constantly.


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When you say that the print stopped, does Matter Control continue to show that it's running but the printer isn't working? This issue sometimes happens when you run the connection through the USB port. Try another USB port, and see if this issue still occurs. You could also try a different USB cable. Somebody on this site once referred to this issue as a USB burp.

 

I did get that error.

I unplugged and plugged everything back in both on the hotend and the ramps. So far the print has been running for 7+ hours (not the cleanest looking print, but that is another issue).

I read through the post you linked, and it seems like it was a wiring issue. Are there any things that can be done to prevent this from happening?

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I've had a similar temperature issue in the past. One time it was the heating element, another time it was the thermistor, and another time is was an issue with the power supply. The weak output from the power supply couldn't handle the bed heating at the same time as the hotend, so the issue was intermittent (only when the bed would heat up). Check the voltage of the power supply with the hotend & bed heating simultaneously. There's a set screw adjustment to raise the voltage slightly. You could also check the hotend temperature while blowing on the hotend. If it suddenly drops then takes a long time to build up, you will know that the power supply isn't providing sufficient power to run everything correctly.

 

I did see in the terminal that it dropped from 222 to 200 (failure point) over the period of 20ish reads. I understand that the was over probably only 15 seconds but I just don't understand how it could be a wiring issue or bad/failing component and have a cool down period.

It makes me think power supply like brooklyn mentions. I have an e3dv6 that I purchased a long time ago. I thought I read in the linked post that the e3dv6 had its own potential issues but that was because it had a lower wattage heater. I wonder if that would lower the load on the power supply.

Alternatively does anyone know of a current 400w power supply? All of the older posts that have links are from many years ago and the part is unavailable on Amazon.

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So now the bed won't heat up. Am I that lucky or are these issues some how related?

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That'll do it.

I am assuming the ramps need to be replaced?

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My original RAMPS developed the same issue on the heat bed plug. There's a lot of current going through that connector. A recommended add on is a solid state controller to take the load off the RAMPS.

 

So I was labeling the wires to swap the ramps and the 11A + connector is burnt too.

These are the original components from Robo l. The connectors are rated for 10A but the board, and other posts on this form, call out 11A connection points. I understand that these parts have a factor of safety that probably covers that cover that 1A.

I already have 2 additional boards from Robo that I got several years ago and the generic board Geof linked initially for the swap instructions.

Knowing that this will happen again on the Robo boards, should I use the generic(assuming they have a higher rating) or actually solder in female sockets that have a higher rating.

Or will the relays prevent this issue?

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