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Z axis acting up

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by pletko, Dec 3, 2021.

  1. pletko

    pletko New Member

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    Hi all

    I've had my R2 for 3 years now and for the past year it's been out of commission. Mostly because the LCD screen was acting up and I managed to get it working by flashing the latest Robo generic image and marlin from the FAQ section of the forum.

    However, it's still acting up. Z offset wizard finally goes through but when I try doing fine offset tuning, every move the x or y axes do, so does the Z.

    When I do it manually not using the fine tuning, just the z-offset and go to print, same thing happens. I've checked my g-code, nothing out of the ordinary is going on there. I tried different slicers (Cura for Robo, Ultimaker Cura, Prusa Slicer, SuperSlicer...) and it's always the same. The z-axis just sinks way below where it starts and should be. On print start when the head moves to do the 9 points, each point the z sinks once and then when I'm guessing it should go back up, it just goes down once again. So when it finally comes to starting the print, the bed is waaay down (like 5 cm) and while doing the purge line it goes even further.

    What can I do to fix this? Could it be that my IR sensor is dead and thus making these problems?

    Thanks
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Please point to the exact link you downloaded for your firmware.
     
  3. pletko

    pletko New Member

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    R2 FAQ

    4th post on the page

    cannot link, need 3 more posts :)
     
  4. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    Sounds like your file is corrupted

    Try this: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qfY8-dQpO4ppbUjqpoGBrPa_-3rGwnPj/view?usp=sharing

    This is my R2 system file for the original R2 which you should put on a USB drive then load via the LCD. It fixes the bed thermistor curves and gives better results for temp regulation.

    This is the last file released by Robo: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-9G3DqEJBj6Ij6g693GBRFivEWTn7be-/view?usp=sharing
     
    #4 Lance Weston, Dec 4, 2021
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2021
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  5. pletko

    pletko New Member

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    Thanks, I'll try it tomorrow and let you know.
     
  6. pletko

    pletko New Member

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    Still no help. please watch this to see what's going on when i try fine tune offset... i don't even know what else to do.
    https: //photos.app.goo.gl/mzPZBaE3YYRZDqTd6
     
  7. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    This link is no good. Did you do a z offset fine tune after the z offset?
     
  8. pletko

    pletko New Member

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    Just remove the space after :, couldn't post the live link. photos.app.goo.gl/mzPZBaE3YYRZDqTd6

    Yes, i did a z-offset before the fine tuning.then the thing on the video happens. I'm stumped.
     
  9. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    Yup, it looks like an electronics problem. PM me your address and I will send you another IR board to test with. You can use it until you get a replacement.
     
  10. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    The ir boards are easily damaged by over tightening the mounting screws.
     
  11. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    I thought I was talking to someone in the US and I would spend $4 to send the board and it would be tested then returned. It would cost me $45 to send to Croatia and probably the same to return it. It makes no sense for a $30 board you can order from Partsbuilt.com.
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Never a safe bet on the internet :)

    Nice offer tho'
     
  13. pletko

    pletko New Member

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    Yeah, thanks for all the help. I was actually under impression that Lance was in the official support and were offering a replacement part :)

    However, I see that the official support doesn't exist anymore. I am a bit disappointed with the lack of official support and part supply out of the US. Any part I would like to order, even the IR module, would cost me multiple times due to postage.

    Thankfully, the community comes to the rescue with an alternative.

    So, to sum things up - as per Lance's instructions, I commented out the G26 command (bed leveling) from start G-code and now I can print. Not exactly as it should be (I just realized I haven't tried fine tuning without the IR sensor but I'm guessing the problem would remain the same since the start G-code doesn't affect the fine tuning. I will try soon. However, currently I'm with my son at home in isolation so I cannot experiment right now.

    My other problem is the false-negative filament sensor. If I want to print, I have to disable the plugin. I have a spare generic endstop module which I can turn into a filament sensor but I don't know how to open the sensor cover or if that would even work. I'm guessing it would but I don't have an idea how to open the cover.

    Thanks for everything.
     
    #13 pletko, Dec 18, 2021
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2021
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  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Sadly, yes there effectively is no more Robo3D. This forum stays open only because the CEO/Owner pays for it out of his pocket to help provide some extended support -- users to users. PartsBuilt.com has the remaining spare parts. You may be able to replace some Robo parts with ones from China or other places. Best of luck.
     
  15. pletko

    pletko New Member

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    #15 pletko, Dec 20, 2021
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2021
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  17. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    I spoke to Jonah about the need for more IR boards and he is mailing me some that were built but not programmed. I should be getting them soon and will program them and return them to Jonah at Partsbuilt.com, they should be available soon. I do this as a service to the community, I do do not get any compensation for what I do.
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  18. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    I programmed the boards and returned to Partsbuilt.com. They should be available soon.
     

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