Community Favorite Mike Kelly's RoBo3D Enclosure

RoBo3D Enclosure
By Mike Kelly
​

This mod allows you to enclose your printer so as to avoid injury from the hot and moving parts, while still being able to watch the print.

If you do not have access to a laser cutter you can buy a pre-cut enclosure here: http://printedsolid.com/collections/accessories-and-upgrades/products/robo-3d-safety-enclosure-kit

BOM​

Laser cut parts:
1x Front Top
2x Front Sides
1x Front Front
1x Front Bottom

1x Rear Top
2x Rear Sides
1x Rear Rear
1x Rear Bottom

Glue:

Weld-on 3 or Weld-on 4

Recommended Hardware:
16x M4-16mm Flat Head Screws
16x M4 Lock Nuts

Recommended Printed parts:
2x Left Female Latch
2x Right Female Latch
4x Male Latch

Build the Enclosure​

While not necessary to build the enclosure, these tools were used during my assembly to help ensure a square shape. Basic masking tape is all that is truly needed as the pieces will interlock together.

2x 24in or 36in Ratchet bar
2x Corner Clamp (cheaper alternative)

You can also print some different styles of corner clamps:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:713236
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1048226

I began by securing the Top, Bottom and Front panel in the corner clamps, verifying the pieces were in the correct positions.



I glued the pieces together in this order:

Bottom to Front

Side 1 to Bottom and Front

I would then remove the 3 glued part, as they no longer require the brace



Side 2 to Bottom and Front is next. Using the ratchet clamps to ensure the part doesn't move during gluing.




The Final step is to secure the top part to the other 4 pieces.

Completed front cover:



Repeat this process for the rear:


Note: I use a piano hinge on my front cover.

Mounting the Latch​

I have attached a PDF template for drilling the side holes

Download Drill Pattern Here

Use the suggested M4 hardware to attach to the enclosure

Attaching to the RoBo3D​

I have provided a simple method of securing the enclosure in place.

While I advise you to secure it in place with screws and nuts, you could theoretically use a strong double sided tape instead.



During this process a second set of hands can be useful, though it is possible to do it by yourself

Unfortunately during this process I didn't take enough pictures.

Step 1) Secure the case to your robo3d using a number of methods, such as 36" ratchet clamps, masking tape, ratcheting tie downs, bungee cords, rope, etc

Step 2) Secure the female latches centered on the black stripe against the male case latch. Mark the location where the latch should reside, or have a second person hold it in place as you remove the case.

Step 3) Either drill out the holes for the latch or secure it in place with high strength double sided tape. Be sure it can handle the weight requirements.

You should then end up with something like this:


Repeat this process on both ends.

Be careful when installing the case during a print so as to not hit the moving bed

Q&A

Why this shape?​

In order to maintain the full build volume it needed to be this large. There are some places that could be reduced in size, but wouldn't work well with a laser cutter.

Internally there's 5mm of clearance on both ends for the drawer slide model. The R1 Y rails have more room because they require less space. Overall it only adds about 15 mm of length end to end.

Do I have to mount it like this?​

I leave it open to each user to decide just how they want to secure it. I personally prefer a hinged method, though easy removal is what a lot of users requested so that's our suggested method. I'm interested to see what other users come up with for mounting to fit their needs.

I have an LCD, will it fit with the enclosure?
​

More than likely not, I have designed a swivel mount design that uses commonly used lifter feet to accomodate the XXL LCD. If you have an alternative I can design something for you.



The alternative solution is to cut off a portion of your enclosure, but I leave that choice to the user​

Final Notes​

Big thanks to RoBo3D for helping me get the correct dimensions to make this case possible.

Let me know if there's any additional questions

 

thanks. hope to have it installed tomorrow. will post pics

 

decided to go with a different mounting system. got some cabinet hinges. took longer than expected to get set up. will have it up monday. I think it'll work really well. But I did start assembling the box today. I think it would be beneficial to have more cutouts along the long edges to increase stiffness along the long axis's. Also I know you sized the front and back differently to minimize the total size when installed, but making them both the larger size may be beneficial. I was test fitting the front side and dropped it and cracked the acrylic on one of the corners. I can glue it back together, but I dont want to have it on the front now. So I'm swapping it with the back even though the bed hits the case at full extension.

 

I just finished getting my enclosure all assembled. One thing to note, it adds about an inch on both ends to the overall footprint. Maybe it's because I have the updated rails??? Will work great for me though. Will keep the kids fingers out of there...




Oh man, need to get rid of those finger prints...

 

Got the front half installed. Ran out of glue for the back half.

Made aluminum brackets to mount cabinet hinges on


Glued the box together with superglue in a syringe (if you try this be careful, the superglue vapors will stick to any fingerprints on the case (found out the hard way)


And mounted the box. Opens and closes well, and stays up. Cant open it with the bed out, but a little g code editing and it will wait for input before running the bed out

 

Those enclosures look great you guys! How are you liking them so far?

 

I like it quite a bit. Besides keeping the kids hands out (they are almost as fascinated with it as i am ), it seems to help keep the temperature much more stable. I have printed several spiral vases and the couple i printed before i had the case have layer separation issues pretty bad, but with the case i don't see any of that.

 

Mike,

Love the design. You mentioned that you designed a swivel mount for the LCD. Have you made that available? If not, would you mind sharing it?

 

Thanks. Here's the LCD files. I think I have all the bugs worked out but if you try it and have any issues let me know.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fl3quqfk90xaz2j/AAAePyuSntifo0paTBat4VyRa

 

Thanks, Mike! I like the design -- it's a very elegant solution. As soon as I get my printer I'm going to try this out and let you know how it goes.

 

cool build.

CleanO2 Carbon Capture Tech

 

I made a derivative of this design that uses thicker acrylic and can be assembled using just nuts and bolts so no glue needed. It can also be made from .236 or .25 acrylic so its really thick and very strong.

I posted the files on thingiverse if you want to cut your own. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:515889

It still uses the same hinges so you will need them from here.

For mine I made the rear one out of solid black because I wanted to block the light and make it easier to mount a camera for monitoring my prints.

 

Cool stuff! Pretty complex but I like it. I wish you had let me know you wanted .25" version as I already have one

 

Thanks Mike, just received mine. Nice work. I thought about making my own, but ordering the precut was just too easy.

 

Hi @Mike Kelly ,

1) By chance are you up for sharing the native Solidworks files for the latches. I wanted to add in some radii.
2) Did your design leave room for washers with the 16mm flat socket head screw? Ok, maybe I'm being lazy.

Thanks in advance

 

1) Sure

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vnxl3mzm04512en/Rear Enclosure Latch Left.SLDPRT?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/is6pfjjnl6ep8ky/Rear Enclosure Latch Right.SLDPRT?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/b5wa7wv3ft1smsc/Rear Enclosure Insert.SLDPRT?dl=0

2) Not entirely sure what you mean.

 

@Mike Kelly

Thnak you, don't worry about 2, I found a stash of 8-32x3/4" flat heads, so I'll check the Solidworks assembly and see if they will work or if they are too long, with the washer and nuts I have.

Seriously though, thanks for the hardcore contributions.