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Loving the PET G

Discussion in 'Off Topic' started by Ben R, Jan 30, 2015.

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  1. lemuba

    lemuba Active Member

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    I print now since a couple of weeks only PETG - for me, no way back to PLA or ABS - at least not for Copter parts, or parts which need to be strong AND flexible. Currently printing some self designed (mixed) ZMR 250 FPV copter arms for my next month Kite Buggy vacations in Denmark.

    Br,

    Matthias
     
    #21 lemuba, Mar 27, 2015
  2. Ben R

    Ben R Active Member

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    Nope. Comes off easy as anything.. but I never have had problems getting anything up. I print it on an 80 degree plate, if one does not let it cool, it is still soft at that temperature. With fresh hairspray, it can stick to much depending on your size... wait 5 minutes and it will be detached all on its own.
    If you're printing on something other than hair spray on glass for anything other than nylon... stop it.
     
    #22 Ben R, Mar 27, 2015
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Usually the worst case I have (with the hairspray) is a light tap to the base of the print with the scraper/spatula and it pops off.
     
    #23 mark tomlinson, Mar 27, 2015
  4. Ben R

    Ben R Active Member

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    NOW, the problem is getting PET. all the good stuff is getting sold out. All that's left is PET+ and other poorly priced american re-branded product.
    Had to buy some on ebay yesterday. Was hunting around alibaba... Tempted to drop a couple K on a pallet of the stuff.
     
    #24 Ben R, Mar 27, 2015
  5. Ravindu

    Ravindu Member

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    can anyone please tell me the extruder temperature setting for PET.

    I tried printing it at 239 C, but it did not print at all.
    Temperature is not going beyond 239 C.
     
    #25 Ravindu, May 26, 2015
  6. Ravindu

    Ravindu Member

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    i have a hexagon hot end.
     
    #26 Ravindu, May 26, 2015
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I print mine at around 250.

    I am not sure you can go above 240 or 245 with the stock firmware. You will need to modify the MAX TEMP in the firmware and recompile/reload to go above whatever they have the maximum set at by default. The all metal hotends (Hexagon, E3D) can go to 300 with no issues (frankly even more if needed).
     
    #27 mark tomlinson, May 26, 2015
  8. lemuba

    lemuba Active Member

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    Yep, the ESUN I print between 250 and 260 degree (E3D V6 Hotend)
     
    #28 lemuba, May 26, 2015
  9. Ravindu

    Ravindu Member

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    Thanks Mark.

    I read on one thread, somebody said that after modifying the temperature in firmware, quality of models got worse.

    Do this happens?
     
    #29 Ravindu, May 30, 2015
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Modifying the max temperature in the firmware is not the problem.
    It may be that printing too hot is the problem :)

    All the firmware setting controls is what the maximum temperature you can print at will be. If you do not change this you can not print some filament types since you will not be able to print hot enough. ABS and PLA will work fine with the default settings for the max temp in the firmware, but other filament types may not.
     
    #30 mark tomlinson, May 30, 2015
  11. Ravindu

    Ravindu Member

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    okay.

    I will choose to modify the firmware.
     
    #31 Ravindu, May 30, 2015
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you find that changing the firmware does cause you problems, reload the Robo3D factory firmware at any point.
     
    #32 mark tomlinson, May 30, 2015
  13. Ravindu

    Ravindu Member

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    Fine Mark.
     
    #33 Ravindu, May 30, 2015
  14. Carter Goff

    Carter Goff New Member

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    So, I'm loving PETG, but having a few problems with the surface being just a bit rough. It's only when it's a large, flat, thin surface. When I print the calibration cube it works fine, but printing an iPhone 6 case, it just ends up a little rough on the inside. Any ideas?
     
    #34 Carter Goff, Dec 25, 2015
  15. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Play with extrusion multiplier, depending on slicer you may be able to adjust just for solid layers, we are talking hundredths if slicer using 1.00 as a scale, or single digit percentage if the setting is %. S3D only does Extrusion multiplier that covers all layers. SLic3r has a setting called Top solid infill. adjusting these can help get exactly the correct amount of plastic extruded so that the top layer is flat with no ridges.
     
    #35 WheresWaldo, Dec 25, 2015
  16. Ben R

    Ben R Active Member

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    What he said, but it won't always work. Sometimes the top just doesn't math out right and the top layer is different than other layers.

    Saw a trick where a guy was adding an extra layer a few mics above his top layer and breaking that off. Leaving a nicer top layer.
     
    #36 Ben R, Dec 26, 2015
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