Solved Please help with callibration

Hello,
I need help fixing the calibration on my Robo3d. Had my printer for a few months and have had no problems till recently. For some reason the left side prints fine but as it moves to the right the filiment just lays on top of the glass like the bed isn't level or the nozzle moves up. I've tried the paper trick, homing the z access over the right side of the plate, machine is level, plate level and no luck. Here are some picks of what happened when I printed a couple calibration test. Please help! I can do anything mechanical but understand nothing of gcodes so be gentle

 

You could try loosening the bracket holding the Z autolevel switches and raise them up a bit so they're better pressed against the idler.

 

Could you possibly take a pic of what your talking about to be sure. Thanks for the advise

 

Mbis,

Mike means the thing that is on the large hexnut on the threaded rods. Each has a small bolt and nut, just look and you'll see them. Loosen the bolt just enough that you can slide that bracket up the hex nut a tiny bit.

I couldn't really tell much from your pictures (my eyes are not what they once were), but it sounds like on the right side of the bed the material isn't getting mashed down very well on the first layer. One trick for this, and I do it by habit now, is to tell your slicer to print a loop or two a few centimeters larger than the print, and while it's printing this loop, manually turn the threaded rods to adjust the z-axis. Clockwise raises the nozzle, counter clockwise lowers it. Obviously the right side rod is the one to which you would pay most attention in your situation. You'll feel the rod "click" as you turn it. Don't be concerned, that actually helps you develop a sense of how far to turn it.

As Mike can tell you, I went through an enormous hissy fit over the fact that the glass on these heated beds isn't really smooth. I suppose there's a difference of opinion here but I stand by what I said -- the glass is warped, at least on mine, and I had to have it hydro blasted smooth only to see it warp again. The glazier said I might try untempered glass instead, as it is actually perfectly smooth. Still, the constant heating and cooling will change the surface over time whichever type of glass you use.

You might also quit using MatterControl, if that is what you're using. It overwrites the firmware and forces the bed to be probed only three times. I now use slicer, pronterface, and Cura (it depends on which OS I have booted and what mood I'm in, etc) -- none of which overwrite the bed levelling routine. I have mine probing the bed at nine spots, and this greatly helps the cause.

 

This is the part I mean. You can see the nut in this picture and if that how yours are you'll need to rotate it around to get access to the screw head.

 

It was the z switches. Thanks so much for the help! Printing beautifully now!

 

Thanks for the advice. I have the newest version of the r1 as I purchased it a couple months ago. My glass hasn't warped. I do use matter control and like it very much. It does touch down in nine points when I begin printing. Wonder why it only does three.

 

The three point leveling is an older procedure to level without the use of autoleveling