Solved Change Nozzle

I think my nozzle is partially clogged.

On my replicator2 i just heat it up and unscrew it.

But there is a black cover thing with wires blocking access to get a wrench on the robo3d's nozzle. How do i remove the nozzle? Just looking to change the tip. Can't access the flat spots on the nozzle for a wrench they are up inside the black cover thing.

Thanks

 

The black silicone boot is compressible so it might be possible to get a 7mm wrench on there to remove it.

Otherwise you'll need to carefully pull the boot down and off to get more access to the nozzle.

I usually clear a clog with a high E guitar string or a bristle from a brass bristle brush.

Here's an install guide: https://tamarintech.com/article/hexagon_std_assembly

 

Thanks i'll try that. I don't have any guitar string or brush and its not completely clogged. I do have spare nozzles though.

 

brass bristle brushes are like $0.80 at harbor freight. Worth grabbing.

 

Well I mangled the boot trying to get the old nozzle tip out. it was crazy tight.. Temp sensor looks ok. I pulled the cover off the robo and pulled the whole hotend and putting it back together now. I will just use Kapton tape for the heat sensor this time. Eyballing the E3D V6 anyway if i screw it up . haha thanks.

I did notice this which is weird.. arn't these screws supposed to pinch this? instead it looks like they were threaded right into it sideways..they were a real chore to get out.. they were hex heads and i have some really nice MIP hex 2.5 wrenches for my RC stuff so i got them out...but they were unbelievably tight. could not get the screws out with the included hex wrenches.

Thanks for the link above on the hot end assembly. the joys of 3d printers! lol.





also the block was really loose where it connects to the heatsinc thing..is that normal how tight should that be?

My MK8 0.4 spare nozzle tips I have here have full hex on them so i can use a socket next time.

 

Another picture of how the screws holding this in basically threaded this thing at an angle.


I guess while I am at it i'll finally figure out why my Y axis trys to go to far and boinks for a second in the direction that doesnt have the stop switch.. Has anyone ever installed a connector on the ribbon cable? on the heated bed or is that a bad idea. its annoying having to leave the cable connected when pulling the glass off. ( or digging under the board )

Oh on my pictures click on them then hover over them on smugmug and click original. on the right side menu thing. and you will see the super high res version.

 

basically when the screws that "pinch" the hotend in place get threaded in they essentially cut the threads into the side of the heatsink. When and if you upgrade your hotend the new one wont have those threads cut into the side but it will once you secure it for the first time.

 

Ghetto fabulus Kapton job ( I only have massive wide kapton so i had to try to cut a strip..seems like its holding )

Did I install it back on right? it was hard to tell how to find the groove for the 2 screws I just slid it up all the way and screwed them in.. the screws went in without much trouble. just wondering if I did it right.

 

looks good from what I can see, does the hotend feel like its in there solid?

 

yea its not moving. and I just heated it up to 250 and extruded some colorfabb XT through it. guess I can button it up and do the bed level z axis calibration and hope it works.

 

I think its fixed I have not printed yet..but getting close.

Figured out why my Y axis was honking at me when it slid forward... the ribbon on the little hook holder thing was bulging and then nailing a thing under the bed. I couldn't get it to stay put so i used some orange duct tape.. I think it will be ok since thats not a hot part of the bed?



Taped it down.. if it hits i'll have to come up with something else as it is its rediculusly close to hitting.


Pulled my build tak off, re-did the hold one side of the rods and turn the other side..then re calculated my Z offset plugged that in. About to try a test print in white Colorfabb XT.. straight onto the bed with some glue stick.

I need to figure out how to hold these wires out of the way though.. after changing it they kinda hang out and get pinned into the left wall when it goes fully left.

I forgot how they were routed before

 

Failed:

Back to the drawing board. I'm trying to print colorfabb XT white. at 245C and 70C at 50 mm/s. trying to print a 20x20x20 cube. nothing comes out.. I jog controls and extrude comes out fine. guess i'll try PLA or ABS again since those were working. maybe its this colorfabb stuff.

All this nozzle changing buisness and whatnot was because I was trying to print colorfabb XT and never could get it to work right.

Edit: Its printing with stock Simplify3D settings for pla for the robo3d with the stock blue pla. The problem is the skirt/brim didn't print at all nothing extruded until it go through that part.. now it seems to be going great. maybe my Z offset it too close my measurements say otherwise? Also is there a good way to make it do a wipe? my Rep2 stock normally would do a extrusion wipe down the front of the build platform, then do skirt/brim then print. This goes straight into the skirt/brim... maybe its a simplify3d thing I need to do.. but I tried mattercontrol once and don't recall it doing it.

 

Scratch the too low of Z offset as an idea. just pulled the PLA stock print and the first layer lines are very seperated not even touching..even though it stuck and the rest of it looks good.. I don't understand what the problem is... to start prints off nothing comes out for awhile then it does..

I'm at a loss at what happened.. it was doing good the first few days.

here is a pic of bottom of latest... note the lines are spread out if the pic comes out right
Blown up version: http://ktmdirtface.smugmug.com/photos/i-sgxBDp5/0/O/i-sgxBDp5.jpg

 

You can always manually have the printer push down a line on the side by editing your start G-code. After G29 do something along the lines of.

G1 Z0
G1 Ynnn Ennn Fnnn

And then resume. I think most of us go with a few skirt lines as it is a feature in all readily available slicers.

In your end G-code there is a retract line somewhere. That is why nothing comes out for a bit when it starts up.

 

I havn't messed with that my stuff is coming out close enough demension wise. ( 20x20x20 cube comes out at 19.98, 20.01, 19.9something) etc.. At first Z was way too short but downloading the 8mm software and flashing fixed that.

I'm printing again, I lowered my Z offset more, and threw down a lot of extra material on the first layer and I'm back in buisness. Also made my brim/skirt 4 passes now and further from the print. I haven't done any messing with measuring filament or playing with extrusion multiplier.. haven't felt the need.

the only reason I don't like the brim/skirt lines, is because usually a glob ends up being drug around off the start and ends up in the print. Printing a big line well away has seemed to work better on my other printer.