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Another Noob from Seattle

Discussion in 'United States of America' started by Lyconthrous, Sep 24, 2015.

  1. Lyconthrous

    Lyconthrous New Member

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    Well after months of lurking around checking out different 3d printdrs, it's offical, I received my R1 Plus today. After seeing Nerdgasum on you tude, I added the Robo to the list. I'll credit novice/expert for moving it up the list, and you guys here put the nail in the coffin.

    I 1st looked at 3Ds for doing build ups for lost wax casing for blade parts, now I can proto parts and ideas before I commit to steel. You guys know all the other trouble you can get into building parts for other projects. Let the fun begin. I even had to contact customer service, bloody 'ell, I just got a smoke lit and somebody was on the line. What happen to the good old days of listing to god awful caned music for longer then you really want to admit. LOL...

    I hope I can give back 1/4 of what I've gotten out of the forum already. Thanks everyone. Thanks to Printed Soild, Mat we'll be doing business again soon. My 1st upgrade is printing, an overhead spool holder, with more to follow.

    Sent from my SM-T530NU using Tapatalk
     
    #1 Lyconthrous, Sep 24, 2015
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  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Welcome aboard.
     
    #2 mark tomlinson, Sep 25, 2015
  3. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    Welcome aboard. Don't worry too much about giving back right away. We've got a pretty good critical mass here, but will gladly welcome more contributions once you build up some 3D Printing scar tissue :)
    By the way, I think you have a lot of 3D Printing people locally. If you are interested in meetups with real live humans, I bet there are quite a few around.
     
    #3 Printed Solid, Sep 30, 2015
  4. Lyconthrous

    Lyconthrous New Member

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    Ya Mat, there seems to be quite a few. A few guys from my old stock removal CNC days have 1. There's 2 maker shop ( can't remember what there called, but workshops open to the public for hire) and a few semi private groups around too. I'm still working on M Kelly's swivel mount, had to reprint 1 part. I've got my 2nd part of eSun PETG printing now. And giving Cura a try way ahead of schedule. 'ell I'll be polishing dies for my hydraulic ram tonight too. Thank God I'm not a choir boy, no rest for the wicked. LOL...

    Sent from my SM-T530NU using Tapatalk
     
    #4 Lyconthrous, Sep 30, 2015
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    And you will ... oh, you will.

    :)
     
    #5 mark tomlinson, Sep 30, 2015
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  6. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    Just last night, I was running a print that failed on me. It was 9 of the robots in my avatar pic, repleneshing my Makerfaire supply. I've printed this exact same print hundreds of times. First layer looked great. Somehow, one of the feet came loose about two hours in (after I walked away to let the last little bit finish...) and I ended up with 6 robots and a pile of protopasta magnetic iron cotton candy!
     
    #6 Printed Solid, Oct 2, 2015
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    LOL. I hear you. When we did the 120+ batch of models we had 5 random failures (for no apparent reason) where the printer would just decide to randomly mess up the print at some point. Undoubtedly a mechanical 'glitch' somewhere during the print <shrug>
    Pretty low failure percentage overall :)


    (I am not counting the few that were human generated failures due to glitched models)
     
    #7 mark tomlinson, Oct 2, 2015
  8. Lyconthrous

    Lyconthrous New Member

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    ROFLMAO... don't think it hasn't already started. Didn't get as much work on the dies as I wanted too. Had to clean up a transparent blue glob off the hot end, take it apart, clean it up, and try again. LOL... But it's part of the fun. Wish I didn't like the color so much. 1 time it prints great, next 2 or 3, disaster strikes. I'm playing with temp and speed, think it's time to reduce the multiplier a bit. Once I get the stringing reduced, we'll see what other problems pop up

    Sent from my SM-T530NU using Tapatalk
     
    #8 Lyconthrous, Oct 2, 2015
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  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Stringing is usually (for PLA or ABS only) a touch too hot on the extrusion temp.

    Your Mileage May Vary.
    Void where prohibited.
    Warranty for answer expires on reading.
    Etc.
     
    #9 mark tomlinson, Oct 2, 2015
  10. Lyconthrous

    Lyconthrous New Member

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    Hi Mark, it's the PETG I'm having fun with. Right now going through 1st layer sticking issues. Raising the bed temp again. What's werid, what works once won't repeat. I get 1 good print then 2+ falures. Usually 1st layers then it prints great. PLA wasn't a problem printing, unless I was trying different settings to see what would happen

    Sent from my SM-T530NU using Tapatalk
     
    #10 Lyconthrous, Oct 2, 2015
  11. Lyconthrous

    Lyconthrous New Member

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    Well... here's the current settings, 235/70, .95 multiplier, slowed the speed down again, 35mm sec, I think. 2 test prints no problem, new back plate for the LCD printing. Will check well drying out some refractory mix in a forge. YES, I'll be checking it often.

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    #11 Lyconthrous, Oct 2, 2015
  12. Lyconthrous

    Lyconthrous New Member

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    3 times the left side started to lift. I tried hair spray, glue stick, and tape. Could have been because it was the side with the card slot or maybe the infill. I checked the size of the heat bed and found out both side where just off the heated area. Hmmm, Soild side stays flat, split side lifted. 1 more thing to try, rotated part 90 degrees and tried again. Made sure the split side was on the heated surface. 1 more part for the LCD done. For PETG, any part that wide enough to fill the x axis of the plate, I'll be rotating and placing so the heated bed will help any problem spots.

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    #12 Lyconthrous, Oct 4, 2015
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, good idea. find where the heated pads are mounted and that is the 'heated bed' size. Center the print as best you can on that.

    Alternatively use a filament less dependent on the heated bed (I like Alloy 910):

    Taulman Alloy 910 Natural Filament is a measurable advancement in 3D printing materials technology from Taulman3D. It is the combined effort of chemical companies, extrusion manufactures and Taulman3D to specifically develop a single material to meet as many high-performance 3D printing needs as possible. With a combined tensile strength higher than that of the strongest co-polyesters, the durability of the Taulman 618 Nylon Natural Filament, a shrinkage factor that rivals that of the Taulman T-Glase Filament, a vast range of chemical resistance, and a 95° C working range, you now have one solution easily printable at 245° C.

    Brief Specifications:
    Color = Natural with Subtle Amber - May be dyed with acid based dyes.
    Diameter = 1.75mm
    Tensile Strength = 8,100PSI +
    Modulus PSI = 72,932
    Max Elongation at break = 31%
    Print Temperature = 245C
    Nozzle size = Any - There are no particulates or additives in Alloy 910
    Tg = 90C
    Print Bed = Cold = BuildTak with coat of PVA
    Hot = Glass heated to 45C with coat of PVA
    (PVA is 50% water and 50% "Elmers Glue All")
    Shrinkage = 0.0031 in/in
    Transmission = 50%

    So you can do this hot or cold on the bed.
     
    #13 mark tomlinson, Oct 4, 2015
  14. Lyconthrous

    Lyconthrous New Member

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    What I need to do is spend some didicated time just on the print to work on my diagnostic skills. But that's not going to happen soon. Just designed a variable flow type blast gate for my bucket forge (melting and casting). Now I need to modify it to make it 3d printable. Then I need to fab up a few more cursibles.
    I did a couple of Sharkz and got more problem with stringing and over flow. I'm going to drop the temp till it has problems flowing, then raise it just enough to flow steady and try again.
    I've looked at those. Going to talk with Mat about different filaments for the casting molds and a few other projects.

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    #14 Lyconthrous, Oct 5, 2015
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That is exactly how you find the sweet spot for temperature and extruding.
    Bump it up until you get consistent, steady flow. You will know when you get to hot on things like PLA/ABS since they will want to stick to the nozzle when too hot.
     
    #15 mark tomlinson, Oct 5, 2015
  16. Lyconthrous

    Lyconthrous New Member

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    Glad I took lots of notes, LOL..., but dam it's frustrating that it prints great at 1 temp then go haywire the next. I'm switching back to PLA for the blast gate build. Then I'm going to take some time and get the LCD mounted and take the hot end off again to check to see if something might be clogging the nozzle. After it's back together, will spent some time and prints some test parts for blade hardware. Then I'll get back to the pain in the arse they call PETG.

    Sent from my SM-T530NU using Tapatalk
     
    #16 Lyconthrous, Oct 5, 2015
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Welcome to Material Science 101.
    With 3D printing it is all about juggling the properties of the materials with the printer you have in the environment you have :)

    This is why knowing what extrusion temperature works for a material someone else is printing is only vaguely helpful...
     
    #17 mark tomlinson, Oct 6, 2015

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