Unanswered ROBO R1 +

If you simply do the Lead screw upgrade, either the Robo3D one or the one posted I posted here. Download and/or make the appropriate change in Configuration.h of Marlin firmware, you will have the +PLUS.

The biggest difference between the two is that the one I designed does not require replacing motors and is a lot cheaper than the Robo3D one. You will also need to print two small parts for the version I made.

 

The other changes are minor.
The way the hotend mounts has changed (there is a quick release plate now).
In terms of actual function not much else has changed.

 

If you need the quick release plate there is a model on thingiverse that can be printed in PETG or similar filament, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1192896, you might need to scale it down in the Z dimension if you are using it with the original Hexagon Hotend.

 

For the size of the print area the Robo is still a good price/printer.
Plus you are already familiar with it

If you can get the R1 a lot cheaper than the R1+ and if fine detail is not your worry then go for that.

 

It depends on how much quality you need and how fine those details are.
You have to be the judge.
With the Robo you can go to a smaller nozzle (and slower print speeds) and do really fine detail. If the printer is well tuned you will get nice prints. Can it do the level of detail you need at those resolutions? I couldn't say.

On any model if you need really superior detail then SLA or DLP will always win and on smaller models it will easily win.

You need to do some testing at the levels of resolution you want. I have been quite happy with the Robo on most all models, but find myself now needing to do much smaller ones (a few square inches max) with really high resolution (0.05 at max... sometimes finer) and that is just not feasible with this type of printer.

Without knowing your requirements I can not really say if it will suit your needs or not

 

@JOAQUIN PICCI everything to do with 3D printing is a compromise, You will have to decide just how much detail you want. If the bulk of what you model are small figurines or things that require good surface detail and finish then maybe a printer like the Form1+ or Form 2 would be a better choice, or you could ease your standards a bit and go with small nozzle diameters, low layer heights and the resulting exponential slowdown in printing speed and still use an FDM style printer.

It's not that it cannot be done with an FDM style printer like the Robo, it's just you have to have the correct expectations about the final quality of your prints. Your expectations need to be tempered with factors such as intended use, model quality, model and detail precision, etc.

 

It is just a setting (maybe two since you want to adjust layer height as well).
Also, you need to slow down print speed. I always do a linear relationship between nozzle size and print speed. That works well.

 

I don't mind suggesting them, but other than the Flashforge I have not used other FDM machines to any great extent.
The limitations you will hit are not going to be Robo specific though.

 

i'd imagine you'll get the same end results as you would with the robo but as with most things i think it will all be opinion on what machine is best. kind of like what car is best

 

Exactly. We don't have any idea how fine the details need to be and at what resolution.
FDM is good, but not as good as SLA/DLP.