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how to replace hexagon nozzle?

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by jediknight0, Jan 20, 2016.

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  1. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    One thing to consider, microstepping may affect the actual level, so I actually go up 10 mm then lower 10 mm then turn the motors at each point I am measuring to make sure it is mechanically parallel (don't want electronics interfering with the process).
     
    #21 WheresWaldo, Jan 30, 2016
    Geof likes this.
  2. jediknight0

    jediknight0 Active Member

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    Thanks for the help everyone. Hopefully I'll get a chance to try it out tonight.

    I've been offline for a few days recovering from surgery (nothing major).
     
    #22 jediknight0, Feb 2, 2016
  3. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Hope all is well ! Let us know how you get along
     
    #23 Geof, Feb 2, 2016
  4. jediknight0

    jediknight0 Active Member

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    So I tried a proper leveling... it helped a little, but not much. I'm still seeing what I could best describe as scraping. It looks like it's only on the first layer, but that might be just where it's most apparent. The thinner the layers the worse it seems to be.

    Did anyone else experience the same problem with the heater block becoming loose on the Z axis (up & down) when changing from a hexagon nozzle to an E3D nozzle?
     
    #24 jediknight0, Feb 2, 2016
  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Shouldn't be loose at all otherwise you risk filament jamming. The reality is that the heater block kind of just needs to come along for the ride and the nozzle needs to be tight against the heatbreak. So you may need to rotate the heatbreak so it threads upwards a half or whole rotation. This will raise the heater block slightly so the lip of the nozzle won't tighten against the bottom of it before it tightens against the heatbreak.
     
    #25 WheresWaldo, Feb 3, 2016
  6. jediknight0

    jediknight0 Active Member

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    Tightening against the heater block isn't the problem, since the E3D nozzles are longer there's no way it could tighten against the heater block and leave a gap inside.

    Take a look at the attached pictures with my scribbling (I have no art skills).

    The second picture shows the gap between the nozzle and heater block with everything tightened. The first picture shows what I believe is my problem (exagurated, of course). With the X-gantry level, the heather block and the nozzle (tightened) are higher on the right.

    To start from the beginning... My hexagon nozzle was worn from some glow-in-the-dark PLA so I wanted to replace it with an E3D hardened nozzle. I had a heck of a time getting the hexagon nozzle off... perhaps I bent the heat-break in the process. Once the hexagon nozzle was off, I noticed the heat-block was very loose... on both the xy-axis and the z-axis. When I attached the E3D nozzle and tightened it, the heat-block was no longer loose but angles up slightly to the right.
     

    Attached Files:

    #26 jediknight0, Feb 3, 2016
  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Okay, the slant is a direct result of the two screws used to hold the hotend in place. If you print a properly sized quick release lever such as on the newer R1+PLUS it will hold the hotend firmly without the tilt. For E3D hotends the clip needs to be 6 mm for the Hexagon I think it is 4.2 mm thick.
    [​IMG]
     
    #27 WheresWaldo, Feb 3, 2016
  8. jediknight0

    jediknight0 Active Member

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    I printed out a quick release (properly scaled for the hexagon)... it works fine but didn't solve my problem.

    I really did bend the hot-end slightly between the heater block and the cooling fins. I seem to have been able to bend it back and it *seems* to be working fairly well. I guess time will tell if I did any permanent damage or if I'll have problems in the future when changing nozzles.
     
    #28 jediknight0, Feb 26, 2016
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