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Problems with Robo 3D R1

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Senator1891, Feb 24, 2016.

  1. Senator1891

    Senator1891 Member

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    Just bought a refurbished by manufacturer Robo 3D R1 and have have probably about 75 failed prints at this point. I originally had a problem where I fixed the Z axis sensors to align properly, I went through 7-point and 12-point calibration, I started getting prints with good first layers, but stringy layers after that. I have tweaked the settings so much from fan speed, speed of the extruder, temperatures, extrusion multiplier, z offset...

    And just this morning I found my z axis not even touching the Y axis bar and tight up against the bottom rotator. I freed it up and leveled them out. Attached the cable to it and tried to print again. The printer now goes through the 9 point calibration, but then does not move to actually print. I think this may have to do with the left z sensor as it no longer clicks when pressing the little orange nub. I will open it up tonight and see what I can figure out.

    3 issues here:

    The immediate issue is the z axis sensor and why the printer won't print. Are there any guide or tutorials on opening up these components? If not are there any ways to get a replacement piece I can buy?

    The second issue is with the printing. I get through the first 3mm layers just fine, but from there I have two different problems. If I leave the layer height at 1.9mm and increase the extrusion multiplier to 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4 at higher layers you notice that the extruder at one point starts being layer than the actual layers. If I leave the layer height at 2mm and extrusion multiplier at 1, I get stringy top layers.

    No matter what though when I print the prints will come out with ribbed sides. I have seen pictures of ribbing but never to this degree.
     

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  2. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    First the z endstop. You can purchase these for a couple dollars from Robo http://store.robo3d.com/collections/parts/products/endstops. Did you get this printer off of ebay from the seller robo3dprinter? If so, that is the Robo company and if you just got it, call there help line. They might be able to help troubleshoot and send you a new piece for free if they find it is faulty.

    Stringy top, how many layers are you printing for your top and bottom? At .2 layer height, I have mine set to 5 layers. Also, are you using MatterControl? Using PLA? What are your temp settings for bed and hotend? What speed? You shouldn't have to change extrusion multipliers. Just make sure your extruder is calibrated correctly so you aren't over or under extruding. The Thomas Sanladerer channel on YouTube has a great video for this.

    Also, do you still have couplers on your z axis leadscrews? Just trying to get an idea of what version of the robo you got.
     
  3. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    What firmware/printer name is matter control saying? Is the fan on the bottom of your printer running? Does the printer home properly?
     
  4. Senator1891

    Senator1891 Member

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    I will give that a shot for the z endstop. Thank you, I really appreciate it.

    I am using MatterControl,
    Green Hatchbox PLA,
    Hotend Temp: 210 (I have tried everywhere from 190-220, however the printer does not seem to extrude when below 200)
    Bed Temp: I have tried using this at 60, however I have resorted to leaving bed temp off and using blue tape with a glue stick. Seems to be working well for adhesion.
    I want to say at .2 layer height I had top and bottom layers set to 2 or 3. Today I tried to set it back to 5, however started running into the issues with the switches again. Will update later.
    I have reduced the speeds from a varying 50mm/s or 60mm/s down to 30mm/s because I thought the extruder was going too fast for extrusion. If recommended I can set it back.

    I do not see couplers. Is there somewhere on the machine I can check the actual version of the product? I noticed the z rod stabilizers actually have divets at the top of the inside of the frame to hold it securely which I was not seeing on other machines.
     
  5. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    They've had little slots for the Z rods for a while now. If you don't have couplers on the Z axis lead screws you have an R1 +plus and MC should say "Robo3dR1PlusV1" for the firmware
     
  6. Senator1891

    Senator1891 Member

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    Where do I check the firmware in MC? Just above the print screen it says ROBO 3D R1 & R1 +Plus(1)
     

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  7. Senator1891

    Senator1891 Member

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    So still unsure of the couplers, what is it I am looking for here? Sorry, just upgraded from a M3D where I had to do little to nothing to print. Wanted to get into more advanced 3d printing. Still learning.
     
  8. Senator1891

    Senator1891 Member

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    Alright, here are my settings,

    Layer Height: 0.2
    First Layer Height: 0.3
    Bottom Clip: 0
    Perimeters: 2mm
    Top Solid Layers: 5
    Bottom Solid Layers: 5

    Infill
    Fill Density: 0.25
    Infill Type: Grid
    Starting Angle: 45
    Infill Overlap: 0.6

    All speed settings are set to either 30 or 30%
    Except for...
    Speed for non print moves
    Travel: 90
    Modifiers
    First Layer Speed: 70%
    These may seem odd but I have just been tinkering with them so far.

    Support Material
    Support Type: Grid
    Ammount: All, 90 Degrees
    Pattern Spacing: 5
    Infill Angle: 45
    Interface Layers: 3
    X and Y Distance: 0.7
    Z Gap: 1

    Extruders
    Support Material Extruder: 1
    Support Interface Extruder: 1

    Filament
    Diameter: 1.75
    Extrusion Multiplier: 1.1
    Extruder Temperature: 210
    Extruder Wiper Temperature: 0
    Bed Temperature: 0
    Bed Removal Part Temperature: 0
    Length on Move: 3
    Length on Tool Change: 10
    Speed: 30
    Z Lift: 2
    Extra Length on Restart: 0
    Minimum Travel Requiring Retraction: 2
    Minimum Extrusion Requiring Retraction: 0

    Extrusion Width
    First Layer: 125%
    Support Material: 0

    Cooling
    Minimum Fan Speed: 40%
    Max Fan Speed: 50%
    Bridging Fan Speed: 100%
    Disable For the First: 2 Layers
    Slow Down If Layer Print Time is Below: 10 Seconds
    Min Print Speed: 10mm/s

    Also posting a picture to show what it just printed. The bottom layers printed fine. After The bottom layers this happened.
     

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  9. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Couplers are what holds the threaded rod on the z to the stripes on some models. So if your threaded rod go directly into the steppers, then you have the latest.

    I don't use MC. But if I remember correctly, it's on the same screen that you can manually move the axis and at the bottom of that page.

    That print... Is your nozzle dragging over the print? I wonder if you are over extruding?

    Your settings look fine. I print pla at no more than 200. I think the 10c difference isn't causing the issue on that last print.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If the nozzle is dragging into the previous layers that sounds like incorrect firmware installed.
     
  11. Senator1891

    Senator1891 Member

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    I am thinking I agree. I just tried with 1mm layer height, 2mm height, and 1.5mm height. 1 mm dragged into the print, 2 mm sat too high, and 1.5 got father but ultimately was too high at a higher point. I have posted a picture. Is it possible I have a 3/8th inch rod and should be printing in something other than mm? Currently printing at 1.2. Where would I get appropriate firmware? Or maybe I am not actually printing in mm like I should?
     

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    #11 Senator1891, Feb 25, 2016
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2016
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Start by measuring the thread count in your threaded rods so you can be certain what size they are.

    How many threads are the in one inch of the threaded rod? Do you have the couplers or do the threaded rods go directly into the stepper? A picture of the connection from the threaded rods to the stepper motor would help if you can't tell.

    This is threaded rod with a coupler:

    [​IMG]


    This is a leadscrew:

    [​IMG]

    Notice the lack of the coupler (the round part right where the shaft connects to the motor)?
     
  13. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    That's the name you gave it. You can call your printer whatever you want in MC, won't affect anything else.

    I don't really use MC but I'm pretty sure it's under Controls > Firmware update, should say what your current "firmware" (printer name) is
     
  14. Senator1891

    Senator1891 Member

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    Thank you for the pictures. I have the coupler. When I get home I will check to see how many threads are in an inch on my z rod.

    I will also check the firmware from there.

    Separately, what program are people using besides MatterControl?
     
  15. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    I primarily use Simplify3D but the price isn't for everyone.

    I liked cura because of the simplicity of setting up a print. Repetier-Host is good as well, has slic3r and Cura engine similar to MC.

    MC is fine in general, I just dislike that it doesn't show errors or have a temp graph.
     
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  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Ditto.
     
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  17. Senator1891

    Senator1891 Member

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    There are about 18-20 threads within an inch.
    There are about 18-20 threads within an inch on my z rods.
     
  18. Senator1891

    Senator1891 Member

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    I believe I downloaded the version 3 firmware, but when I click the check for update button on Maatercontrol it says Current Build: 1.4.0.5367 which I believe is the version of MatterControl
     
  19. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Well, is it 18 or 20? I believe an 18 is a 5/16 threaded rod and a 20 is an M8 threaded rod. The Robo came with both at one time and makes a difference which firmware you need.
     
  20. Senator1891

    Senator1891 Member

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    Hard to count especially with this blue light. I believe it is 20 threads. I loaded the 8mm firmware. Not seeing much better results.
     

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