Marlin Firmware Upgrade 1.1.0 RC8 & RCBugFix (For R1 & R1+PLUS)

I meant more for making sure not to have any unnecessary code at the start of an actual print program after having stored the mesh leveling values.

 

I mean you don't use G29 or Z offset with it. You can have pretty much anything you want in the startup otherwise, won't affect the mesh

 

So, run the mesh leveling with the LCD when powering up, then

Code:

M140 S[bed0_temperature] ; Set Bed Temperature

M190 S[bed0_temperature] ; Wait for Bed Temperature

G28 ; home all axes

G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift Z by 5mm

M565 Z.85 ; set the offset for auto-leveling mechanism

G29 ; run auto-level

; This set of code is so that it autolevels before heating so that the BuildTek surface is not damaged

G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift Z by 5mm so it doesnt rest on the BuildTek while heating.

M104 S[extruder0_temperature] T0 ; set extruder temperature .

M109 S[extruder0_temperature] T0 ; set extruder temperature and wait for temp

Basically becomes

Code:

M140 S[bed0_temperature] ; Set Bed Temperature

M190 S[bed0_temperature] ; Wait for Bed Temperature

G28 ; home all axes

G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift Z by 5mm

M104 S[extruder0_temperature] T0 ; set extruder temperature .

M109 S[extruder0_temperature] T0 ; set extruder temperature and wait for temp

in the Starting G-code in whatever slicer.

 

Yes, you do need to do a M500 to save it.

 

I flashed the latest iteration of the RC3 firmware... everything works great with my R1+ except for the Full Graphic LCD.

All the icons and functions are there, but the "Tune" menu is wacky. The menu items are correct, but if I try to change a setting it goes directly to the "Flow" screen and you can't click to exit that screen. When it finally times out to return to the Info screen, then the speed setting has changed to minus one degree from the previous setting. All of the adjustments can be made in the "Control" menu with no issues. Also, it may be randomly setting my temperature to a different value--but I have to check my Gcode to make sure I don't have a temperature change in there that I wasn't expecting.

 

The update fixed the LCD but hosed the auto bed leveling...

Bed leveling works, but now it "double dips" at each of the 9 points--at a very slow rate.

I cannot see anything different in the Configuration.h between the two versions.

 

Yes. I already have that value set at 18000.

The issue is the travel speed of Z. It just creeps down and back up during homing and bed leveling. I haven't found the cause of this yet. Everything was fast with the ROBO RC3 version you posted here. The bug fix version is giving me this problem.

 

If you updated to RC3 for mesh bed leveling, then you should have auto bed leveling disabled.

 

I upgraded to get the Full Graphic LCD working properly with all the tweaks. The auto leveling has not been a problem for me as a feature. WheresWaldo has pointed me to the correct lines to fix the issue I am having with speed. The "bug fix" version has a few generic values that I missed when changing to ROBO specific values. This is not the RC3 version posted in this thread but rather the latest Marlin RC code.

 

The mesh leveling process is far more simple that it seems. Although, it's far easier with the LCD.

1. Use the LCD to select bed leveling under Prepare. If you don't have an LCD, use the G29 S1 command to initiate the bed leveling. It will home and then move to the first point. If you've leveled the bed using paper prior to MBL, then the print head should be on the bed.
2. Use paper to adjust the distance. On the LCD, it will show a 4 and you can simply adjust the knob. The default adjustments are .025mm per detent. Without LCD you'll need to use the terminal for whichever program you're using to control the printer. You can adjust this in Configuration.h if you want finer resolution, mine is now .010. #define MBL_Z_STEP 0.010
3. With the LCD, when you finish adjusting the first point, simply push the knob and it will move to the next point. Without LCD, the G29 S2 command will store the point and move to the next.
4. Follow these same procedures for each point.
5. After the last point, it will home again.
6. The is an option on the LCD to store settings under the Prepare menu. Otherwise, use a G500 command. This will save you new points into the EEPROM. Make sure to do this!
7. You will need to remove the G29 and M565 Z offset commands from you gcode.

That's it for the bed leveling, it is quite simple.

I haven't tested this yet, but you should be able to fine tune using the M851 which is Z offset for the Marlin software. Do not use M565, it will not work. It will adjust the hotend down toward the bed using a negative number and upwards with positive. This is opposite of what you've used with M565 in the Robo firmware. So you adjust from a standout of 0.00. If you need the hotend closer to the bed, use M851 Z-0.01. This will move the hotend 0.01mm closer to the bed for printing.

Now you Robo should print very well on a bed that is not flat. This has fixed my issues. I've have not changed the number of leveling points from 9 (3x3). If you do want to do this, change these:

#define MESH_NUM_X_POINTS 3
#define MESH_NUM_Y_POINTS 3

You can change the number of points in both X and Y. The software says not to go above 7x7 which is 49 points.

Documentation:
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/wiki/Mesh-Bed-Leveling

Hope this helps.

 

Ah, cool.

 

Good point @WheresWaldo, I changed these after my first MBL. Found out real quick.

 

It turns out the the BUGFIX version has the Z feedrate set at 4*60

I set it to 10*60 and everything is back to normal functionality.

I am considering just using mesh leveling and setting it once, and then every so often after that. Auto leveling seems like a cool idea, and it works well on my R1+, but after a while it becomes a pain to wait for. I have everything else dialed-in so well that I prefer the "set it and forget it" method instead. Auto is great for the out-of-the-box usablility, but I think ultimately mesh leveling is more accurate and practical for the intermediate to advanced ROBO owner.

Thanks again @WheresWaldo