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PETG suggestions?

Discussion in 'Printing Filament' started by TylerJ, Feb 21, 2016.

  1. TylerJ

    TylerJ New Member

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    I would like to know print settings and suggestions when using PETG.

    I'm printing at 245, bed at 50, speed at 50 except for first layer of 8.

    The filament needs to extrude at least 6-8mm before any comes out of the nozzle. It then continues to ooze for at least 30 seconds. When I wipe it after it's finished, it needs another 6-8mm before it extrudes again. Is that normal?

    My first few jobs failed, Cura error log says the extrusion temp dropped too much. It went from 240 to 220. I had to disconnect the front and rear 40mm fans (not the extruder fan).

    I'm also getting a bunch of strings inside a circular object. eSUN recommends no more than 3mm retraction, so that's what I have it at. Minimum move of 2mm before retraction.

    All tips appreciated.

    Sent from my SM-N915V using Tapatalk
     
  2. cdsl810

    cdsl810 Member

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    I print the first layer at 250 degrees, then 245 for everything else. Bed starts at 85-90, then 80 for layers 2 and up. White PETG needs +2 degrees for everything... other opaque and translucent colors do fine at 245/80. These settings have worked perfectly for me. It did take me a few days of tinkering with settings to get perfect prints, but once PETG is dialed in it prints like a dream.

    EDIT: Make sure you print 3-4 skirt lines (not layers) at the start of the print. PETG does ooze a lot and this will take care of the extra extrusion necessary at the beginning. I'm using S3D, I would be happy to post my settings if you need further "dialing in"
     
  3. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Yeah, PETG can be problematic for first time users, I run my bed at 80°C with hairspray but do not turn the fan on full. Since it absorbs heat it tends to allow the nozzle to cool too much, At layer 3 I use about 60% fan speed, then 70% at layer 7, 80% at layer 12, etc. to allow the nozzle to return to temp. Also PID tuning your heater will help it hold temps better
    http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning
     
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  4. cdsl810

    cdsl810 Member

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    FWIW... I have been able to print eSun and Inland (Microcenter) PETG directly on the glass with no hairspray or glue stick. The nozzle temp needs to be 250 and the bed temp must be 90-95 for the first layer--NO FAN. Once the first layer is down, I ramp the temperature down 5 degrees per layer until the bed is at 80. Then I leave it alone. I have the fan coded to come on when the print speed slows and also for bridging. Adhesion remains until the bed temp drops below 65-70... then the part just lifts off... and it leaves a really cool mirror-like finish on the side that was contacting the bed. I am printing at 245/80 for the most part. I have had really good success with the "cheap" PETG. I will throw a couple pics up later after I deal with this snowstorm...
     
  5. cdsl810

    cdsl810 Member

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    Here is a spacer I needed for the new top mount spool holder I'm going to try. This is cheap Inland PETG ($14.99/spool). The finish is about as flawless as you can get out of 0.25mm layer height, regardless of filament type. I did not use hairspray or glue... printed directly on the glass. That's one of the benefits of PETG--once you have everything dialed-in it's awesome filament to print.
     

    Attached Files:

    #5 cdsl810, Feb 24, 2016
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2016
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  6. TylerJ

    TylerJ New Member

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    Very nice, thanks to all for the tips. Should this filament be run through an oiler like PLA?
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Nope. There is no need to use an oiler on anything except PLA. Won't hurt, but won't help.
     
  8. Sean Carson

    Sean Carson Member

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    I'm playing with petg myself and I don't understand how you are all giving such precise instructions like when the fan should kick on and what temperatures we should have per layer. I slick with mattercontrol and print via octoprint. Am I not able to do this? Would simplify 3d help?
     
  9. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Sean Carson, to whom are you addressing these questions?
     
  10. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    I don't even use the fan most of the time with PETG. I just print at 235/80 and don't do much else.
     
  11. Sean Carson

    Sean Carson Member

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  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You get more control with other slicers. MC is rather bottom of the list in terms of how much you can tweak it.
    Certainly Simplify3D allows all of that and more (you can even control different settings for different regions).

    I always suggest trying all of the free ones first to see if you can suit your needs that way.
     
  13. cdsl810

    cdsl810 Member

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    I was listing exact settings, etc. because of Simplify3D. It requires that kind of attention. When I was using Matter Control and trying out PETG, I simply used the PLA defaults and then set the temperature at 245 nozzle/80 bed--and you may consider turning off the fan. PETG will print fine if you use Matter Control. A higher quality is possible with better tweaking--beyond the capabilities of MC.

    I find that other slicers provide a higher degree of control, and as a result, allow for better prints. Simpify3D is my favorite.
     
  14. cdsl810

    cdsl810 Member

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    This may be helpful...

    After upgrading my hotend to the E3D v6, I have noticed that I can print 3-5 degrees cooler than with the Hexagon. I also had to calibrate the extruder for the new hotend--it needed to be faster than the Hexagon settings. I just did a print with PETG blue translucent at 240 degrees on an 80 degree bed, and it came out great with no stringing or globs.

    I only mention this because PETG is infamous for being stringy and oozing. One of the best ways to clear up strings, ooze, globs, etc. is printing at a lower temperature, as well as making sure that your retraction settings are appropriate. Lower temperature also has the added benefit of better bridging and cleaner finish... things that PETG can struggle with.

    Once you get a feel for how the filament is behaving it will become second nature to tweak settings on the fly. Oh, and black prints best hotter than the translucent colors; white even hotter yet (240-242 for colors, 245 for black, 247 for white). This is due to the added color compounds necessary to make black and white filament. The reds have their differences too.
     
    #14 cdsl810, Feb 26, 2016
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2016
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  15. Etan15

    Etan15 Member

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    Keep in mind I am a noob but this is what is working for me:

    I have a spool of inland PETG Black from Microcenter. At first it was very frustrating and I was having a lot of trouble getting it to stick to the bed. I read that you can print directly to the glass but I was not successful with that. After a lot of research this is what I am currently successful with:

    Hotend: 245
    Bed: 80
    Using Scotch 3M Clear Glue(I found this on another 3D printing forum and it is working flawless!)
    Measured my filament in several areas of the spool and found it to be 1.71mm so I changed that in the slicer software
    Fan is off for the first .1mm and then %50 the remainder.
    Attached are captures of my Cura settings and the glue I purchased from Walgreen 0306162214.jpg 0306162257.jpg Basic-Cura.png Advanced-Cura.png .
     
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  16. WADZOQUADZ

    WADZOQUADZ Member

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    I run my Esun PETG at 240 with 80 bed , 50mm/sec and NO print fan. this is with the E3d V6 . Prints flawlessly ,even better then PLA. Not even getting any ooze .I use hair spray for bed adhesion. My PETG prints are actually sticking even more the PLA does.
     
  17. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Every printer performs different :) I run 235 /80 clean glass or some hair spray for long prints. Dual ducted fans at 30-60% fan no issues. Occasional strings but they pull right off
     
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  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Exactly. Filament print temperatures are very much machine and environment specific.
    I have two side-by-side that don't use the same temps for the same filament.
    Temperatures are spec'ed in a range that is considered normal and you need to experiment to find what is best.

    Other things like fan, no fan, LOTS OF FAN, those sort of generalities are helpful. Knowing what temperature someone printed at is not as helpful :) (OK, if it is major whack it might help)
    Even things like a volcano adapter significantly change the print zone...
     
  19. WADZOQUADZ

    WADZOQUADZ Member

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    The more i print with PETG it is AMAZING with my R1w/official leadscrew upgrade and e3d v6. My prints are flawless. Printing at .25 layer height and i cant see any individual layers on my finished prints by eye. Plus the 0 warp, sticks almost too good to the bed, runs through the extruder excellent, excellent part strength and decent temp resistance .Damn near perfect filament. Havent had one issue on a print since i started using it 20+ prints ago . Theres almost no reason to use PLA anymore except maybe if i need a specific color.
     
  20. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Yea I only use PLA for colors or for testing crap and i happen to have PLA still., also I still get a booger now and again on my nozzle with PETG.. other than that its my favorite material.

    Don't even seem to need a cooling fan with it. Good stuff.
     

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