Unanswered Hot end now spinning - Have I broken it?

Hey guys,
I removed my hot end to try and clean the nozzle. Now the end spins independently of the hexagonal piece.
Have I totally broken this one?
I can get ED3 V6 hotend locally but if the printer is not working I cannot print the fan mount for the parts.

Help!

 

Is the set screw still in there? Tighten it down if so

 

There is a hole with a thread in it but I cannot see a screw in it. It is currently printing but I am still having major issues as before with filament starting to come out at the start of the print but as soon as it prints the first thin layer the hobble bolt keeps grinding the filament. This occurs more so on ABS than PLA.
Could this be a heating issue?

 

First step is sorting out the heatsink. Look around the printer for a small set screw. i think they're also M2.5mm if you wanna grab a replacement screw.

Chances are good that the first layer issue is that your first layer is too low

 

FYI, I was able to move from the Hexagon to an E3D even though I hadn't printed the thicker bracket yet (I didn't even realize that was required at the time, and broke the nozzle from my original hotend so it was an unplanned upgrade when it happened). I just shored-up the edges of the bracket with blue tape until the E3D heatsink was a snug fit in the bracket that came with my printer, then the first thing I printed was the proper bracket and it came out fine.

 

Thanks for that. I didn't realize it needed a new bracket. I thought it would have been a straight replacement with a new parts fan bracket.
Can someone send me the link to it? This is for an R1

 

Ah, didn't catch that you were talking about the fan, you said fan mount but I was thinking about the retaining bracket. Depending on your Robo model there are two ways the hotend heatsink is held in place. The original design uses a pair of screws that come in from the left side of the carriage when looking at the unit from its front. The newer design uses a rotating 'quick release' plate (could be metal or plastic) that swings out the right side of the carriage once you loosen a screw underneath (the front screw that holds the Hexagon cooling shroud in place, you don't need to remove it just loosen it enough and the plate will rotate). Mine was the latter, you can tell based on whether you can see the two screws on the left side of the carriage or whether there's a 'pull tab' on the right side of the carriage between the carriage and the extruder assembly.

If your Robo uses the two screws on the left I guess that 'just works' moving to the E3D, not sure since that isn't my unit. When you have the plate, the part of the heatsink that slots into this plate is larger on the E3D than the Hexagon, so you need a thicker plate to accommodate that. The one I printed is this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1192896

But yeah, you do need to change out the cooling fan assembly as well. I had already printed a set of dual shrouds before realizing that they didn't work with the Hexagon, fortunately they worked right with the E3D so I already had them ready to go when my "emergency upgrade" happened. I had printed this set (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:655450) because I was interested in the LED mounting, though I found at least in PLA the fingers for the LED were way too brittle, they cracked just in coming in contact with some prints that didn't stick well to the bed before I even found the right LED ring to install in them. But they still work fine as fan shrouds however, I'm thinking of my own way to mount some LEDs close to the nozzle to better light the job. These shrouds do hold the fan a bit farther away from the carriage than some others, so right now it's limiting my Z which I'm not happy with, I'd like to use Novice Expert's shroud but I need to make some tweaks to it so I'll probably just end up designing my own now that I think I know how to do the duct with OpenSCAD. I've got a few improvement parts I've designed for my Robo almost finished, I'll post them to Thingiverse when they're done.