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Unresolved Removing Extruder Assembly

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Sullivant2, Mar 12, 2016.

  1. Sullivant2

    Sullivant2 New Member

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    Good Day,

    Is there a way to remove the extruder and all that garbage to celar a jam without disassembling theentire printer?

    ANd in fact, while I'm on the subject, everyone seems to talk about allan screws to remove the hot end / cold end assembly. WHere are these on an R1 Plus?

    Anyway. I'll be near my computer reassembling my completely useless 1000 dollar piece of scrap.

    Edit: also a bunch of ball bearin keep falling out. are those important? Because they're gone.
     
    #1 Sullivant2, Mar 12, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2016
  2. Bil Forshey

    Bil Forshey Member

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    Check out this video



    Ball bearings should not be falling out! Call Robo 3D tech support for help 844-476-2633 they are available 24/7
    You may need a replacement linear bearing.
     
  3. Sullivant2

    Sullivant2 New Member

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    Yeah, I don't see two screws on mine. Every tutorial I've seen is I guess the non plus version of the Robo 3D? There is some circular plastic piece with four screws, but I think this thing is jacked up enough without me trying to pull unnecesssary screws out.

    EDIT: That isn't it. It's some covering but it doesn't drop the hot end, it just opens up into the heat sink.

    Honestly, I am so frustrated with this this. It comes to me broken. It jams within ten hours of use, and is falling apart when I try to do basic maintenance.

    The fact that users have come up with a half a dozen upgrades to make it even serviceable is kind of disgusting, but I may just be frustrated.
     
    #3 Sullivant2, Mar 14, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2016
  4. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    That video is really old, Robo doesn't even use that particular hotend anymore. Checking and clearing the hot end on the R1 or PLUS is essentially the same. You need two wrenches a 16 mm and a 7 mm. Here is a nutshell of what need to be done. Heat up the extruder (I usually try for a low temp about 150° - 170°C, it should be hot or it won't come apart. Use the 16 mm to prevent the aluminum heat block from turning, place the 7 mm on the sides of the nozzle. Unscrew the nozzle.

    At that point you should be able to clear out anything that is left in the nozzle itself before reversing the procedure and reassembling. One note that is very important The nozzle when installed is tight against the heatbreak tube, not the aluminum heat block, so a thread or two might actually be visible between nozzle and heat block. If it is not that can lead to stuck nozzles and more troubles.

    I am sure there are youtube videos that show this so I would suggest searching for them. Use terms like Hexagon, hotend, jam, nozzle removal, etc.
     
  5. Sullivant2

    Sullivant2 New Member

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    Yeah I am going to have to do that again. It is really mucked up now. I am hitting the point where I am just going to throw this thing away, to be honest.

    And yes, that's how you remove the nozzle, but is there a way of removing the entire hot end without disassembling entirely? There are certainly no takedown screws that I can see.

    Thank you for the measurements of the wrenchs I need though.
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The J-Head style hotends are less susceptible to jams/clogs, but far less flexible on what materials you can print.
    Going with the all-metal hotend style was not a bad choice, but with that comes the addition of clogs/jams (PLA in particular) and they really should consider providing and documenting use of an oiler. We have an entire thread (and videos) on this sort of stuff here in the forum, but by the time people get here they are already often pulling their hair.
     
  7. Sullivant2

    Sullivant2 New Member

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    Can these J head style hotends print PLA?
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    PLA and ABS is about the extent of it.
    If you never intend to print anything else then a J-Head is dandy.
     
  9. Sullivant2

    Sullivant2 New Member

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    Is there a brand you recommend?
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Of printer or filament :)

    All of the lower end RepRap style (what the Robo is) are very similar.
    I don't know what you need for build area or details like heated bed, etc.

    Be careful not to get a 'kit' unless you want to build it yourself as well.
     
  11. ElKameleon

    ElKameleon New Member

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    To remove the hotend on current R1+ machines, send the carriage as high as you can to get a screwdriver under it. There is a philips screw on either side of the hotend that you can loosen. Once loose, there is a plate with a loop sticking out the right side of the extruder. if you give it a good yank, the plate will swing out and release the hotend. It's a tight fit so it could take a little force.

    EDIT: Images to help!

    0tglUGt.jpg

    Current models have a plastic plate instead of an aluminum one, so don't get confused if its not aluminum.

    http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/removing-hotend-on-r1.6802/
     
    #11 ElKameleon, Mar 14, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 14, 2016
  12. Goofynoodle

    Goofynoodle Member

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    my video on removing the hot end for newer robo.
     

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