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hair spray tip for stick

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by E-Z, Jan 28, 2016.

  1. E-Z

    E-Z New Member

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    if you use hairspray on your bed i dont think its a good idea to spray it on
    even if you shield it.
    flame-able fumes and electronic parts dont work together very well.
    there is all so moving parts and i think a fan on the inside bottom of the printer and hairspray makes these parts stick, they need to be free and lubricated,
    what i do on the bed is first get a lint free paper towel thats durable when its wet and doesn't fall apart,
    lint free so it doesn't leave any lint from the paper towel on the bed,
    i first spray Windex glass cleaner on the paper towel and wipe the bed wet,
    then use the scraper to remove any thing on the bed then i take a light scrub pad and do the same with the glass cleaner, scrub pad lets you remove every thing because you can feel the left over pla bumps on the bed when your wiping it with your hands,
    i wipe the bed almost dry with another dry lint free paper towel, ill wipe it 2 or 3 times but i wont buff wipe it till its dry, it should be a tad wet on the last stroke, if you buff fry it all the way and there is some thing on the bed like a tad of pla it will streak and be all over the bed,
    then take a lint free paper towel and spray hairspray in it then wipe the bed, keep it wet, dont wipe dry the hairspray or it wont stick as good.
    dispose the paper towel like in water,dont bunch up the paper towel because it could cause a fire
     
  2. need Robo 3d help

    need Robo 3d help New Member

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    What I do that is help full for smaller prints with less weight is heat the bed to 70-75,this softens the bottom layer and makes it stick to the bed. I do caution using using small prints to maximize result quality.
     
  3. Chuck Erwin

    Chuck Erwin Active Member

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    I used to be all careful when I first started now I just use Aqua net and spray the crap out of it at 60c for pla and 90c for abs several times, sometimes with not even cleaning it off between prints.

    I am just bad that way.
     
  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I do the same, just ocasionally have to switch the hot end fan so I can clean it up as I'm terrible with overspray
     
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  5. Jaystephens3D

    Jaystephens3D Member

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    I have switched off of hairspray to glue sticks, for a few reasons but its all personal. I have found that glue sticks are easier to clean, have better adhesion and I don't often find myself needing to reapply in between prints so I end up using a good deal less. I also find that I am able to print with slightly lower bed temps (10c or so). It also completely avoids having things like overspray or coating your printer and rods with hairspray.
     
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  6. Chris MeaD

    Chris MeaD New Member

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    I'm with Jaystephens3D I use glue sticks I do a double coat and slow down the speed on the first layer to 50% and ever since I haven't had any adhesion issues.
     
  7. Chuck Erwin

    Chuck Erwin Active Member

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    Too each their own, I used glue sticks but I print a lot and the clean up was taking too long for glue sticks. Hair spray cost more but little clean up for me. I don't fret about over spray anymore and I can go a lot between cleanings.

    Not trying to convince anyone but I think you have to find what works for you and the machine. I do use glue on my Da vinci but not the robo3d as much it's just what works.

    But in full disclosure for ABS I'll use hairspray, glue, abs slurry, snot and ancient rituals of binding what ever it takes..
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Bingo.
     
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  9. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    I hate gluestick, and hairspray. they both make messes...and suck to clean. I think Waldo was making fun of me in one of my posts for never cleaning my bed.

    If I can I use PrintinZ zebra plate, or build Tak I do.. They have their issues too but I dont have to clean stuff up .

    The major issue I have with PrintinZ zebra plates and build tak is....do not try to print flex filiament on them or IT WILL NOT COME OFF EVER.. ( lies it comes off but your bound to ruin it )

    Other than that both have worked great and I just print and print!
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You are supposed to clean the after hairspray?!?

    :)

    I know, I just really seldom do.
     
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  11. cosber

    cosber Active Member

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    I simply hang an towel over the carriage and give the bed a few short bursts of hairspray. I can go 4-5 prints before I need to reapply. And as far as sticking-it's virtually impossible to remove the print until the bed cools all the way down. I now turn off the heat bed about 15 minutes before the print ends (most of my prints are in the few hour range). I've yet to have a print come loose before it finished and I can pop it off right away.
     
  12. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I use a gecko plate on the ditto and hairspray on the robo for pla and glue stick for ngen. As far as clean up I wipe off the gecko plate and use windex and a paper towel on Friday of every week for the robo. Glue stick maybe 2x /week if it gets ridiculous. As far as long term about 1x/6 months I have to switch out my fans due to the hair spray build up (they work just make a whirring noise due to the build up) and clean the ones I removed with a q tip and windex. Takes about an hour to get them real clean so TV and beer while cleaning lol
     
  13. Bil Forshey

    Bil Forshey Member

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    No more hairspray for me!

    I would highly recommend the FLEKS 3D build plate for any 3D printer users, It eliminates the most aggravating problem that users have of getting prints to adhere to the bed well enough to print, no messy sprays, no need to clean up sticky residue after printing, no masking tape, no Kapton tape, no glue sticks, just print and it works perfectly.

    Check out their website at flecks3d.com.
     
  14. MChrisP1

    MChrisP1 Member

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    Bill what size would you get for the R1+? I see that website doesn't reference Robo3D machines...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  15. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Find one that covers this size at the very least of you want to use the entire build area of the R1+PLUS 220 mm x 236 mm (WxD). Wider will work but the build area is not quite as wide as the glass.
     
  16. Bil Forshey

    Bil Forshey Member

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    I believe the 10 x 10 inch (254mm x 254mm) size should fit on the Robo's bed.
    If they get enough requests they may make a size just for the Robo R1.
    I ended up getting a smaller kit Makerbot Rep2 (5th gen) 10.5" x 8.5" (267mm x 216mm) Build Plate System. because the 10 x 10 was not available at the time. The dimensions shown are the outer frame size, the actual build plate is smaller.

    I adjusted my Marlin firmware, and Mattercontrol settings accordingly. I lost a little bit of build area (was 228mm x 254mm, now is set to 200mm x 228mm) but I am OK with that. How many people really use the whole 9" x 10" build space for a print?
     
    #16 Bil Forshey, Mar 13, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2016
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    More than you might think
     
  18. Bil Forshey

    Bil Forshey Member

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    10 x 10 should be good for them i think. Check with FLEKS3D if you have questions.
     
  19. Bil Forshey

    Bil Forshey Member

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    Before I got the Fleks 3D build plate I could never get anything that large to stick long enough to successfully print, of course I was using ABS, I never use PLA as It's properties don't fit my needs.
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is a good thing that the only choices are not PLA and ABS.
    ABS is neither the best at high temperature nor the strongest and difficult to print without a heated chamber.
    PLA is nice for quick things and prototyping.

    Don;t limit yourself to binary thinking. There are a world of other choices :)
     

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