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Solved Still ribbing, any suggestions?

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Nathanfish, Mar 19, 2016.

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  1. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    I did the Z axis leadscrew upgrade but i'm still getting ribbing and not sure where to go from here. Any ideas? My other printer with the stock threaded rods is much better. All the belts are tight and it's autoleveling pretty consistently. I'm out of ideas but i know this should be able to do better than this. I have a .6mm nozzle

    I have the parts for leadscrews for my other printer but not sure i should change them out when it's been printing pretty decent.
     

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  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Just looking at the corners... something is still slipping on either X or Y.
    The belts are not the only thing to check, the motors that drive them have a cog on the shaft driving the belt and it can get loose.
     
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  3. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Agree with @mark tomlinson that is not Z, look at your layers, they are extremely uniform It could be a couple of things, too much acceleration, the default Robo firmware is set up way too fast. Look for a line that says default_max_acceleration it likely still has 9000 for the first two parameters, ideally it should probably be around 800 given the design and construction of the Robo. A second suggestion is maybe lower the extrusion multiplier by 0.01 or 1% to see if it ends up looking better.
     
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  4. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    I tried messing with the extrusion with no luck. I had already changed the default acceleration on both of my printers to 900 but i didn't touch the Max acceleration. I just changed all 3 of those settings to 800 and did a test print that looks a little bit better. Went ahead and changed them all to 300 and doing another test cube. Seems to be looking a little better and i can really see it starting and stopping slower. Still doesn't seem to be fixing it completely though.

    I am using an E3D Volcano with a .6mm tip on this printer. I took of my parts fan because it was cooling down the block and stopping my prints. I wonder if i should wrap the heater block to insulate it and put the parts fan back on, maybe that will make a difference? I'm trying to drop my temps slowly to see what that will do.
     
  5. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    The sides do look a lot more flat now, just seems to be the corners where it's starting and/or stopping. Maybe mess with retraction?
     
  6. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Retraction and Jerk settings will affect the corners.
     
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  7. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    I also changed the jerk from 17 to 13. Not sure if that does anything since this is printing pretty slow. I will up my retraction and see what that does. It was currently at 1.8mm in simplify.

    Thanks!
     
  8. Quest

    Quest Member

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    I would also try to go higher on the jerk to see what it dose. My printer seems to like 20 for the jerk. What I have seen playing around with jerk is if its to slow the corners are not as nice and if its to high i get to much ringing.
     
  9. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    I'll mess with my jerk settings more. My latest one still looks like garbage.


    Also, doesn't look like it's retracting on the corners where it looks like that.
     

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  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You are still overshooting slightly on those corners.
    A parts fan will make a noticeable difference on most materials (actually it will make a noticeable difference on all materials just not in a good way on some).
     
  11. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Yeah I think I can see that that is what it's doing. I'm going to play with 'coast at end' and see if that helps.

    Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You can prove it by drastically cutting the speed (pretend you are printing nijaflex) and see if it stops.
     
  13. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Few pics to see if anyone has any ideas why it's doing this. Could it possibly be varying diameter of the filament causing it? Esun PETG at .4 and .2mm layer heights with a Volcano hotend and a .6mm nozzle. Tried tightening my belts and lowering my temps, still can't figure it out. I know i should be getting better results than this.
     

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  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Look at ptd-side-jpg
    See how the edge is not nice and straight?

    That is most likely still something loose on the drive for that axis causing it to 'wobble'.
    Your edges should be really straight unless something is introducing 'slop'

    The ribbing can be a symptom of that or a bit of over extrusion so make sure you calibrated the extruder as well.
     
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  15. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    I will see about tightening up my X axis belt a little more or see if i can find slop anywhere else. I tightening up the Y axis and i think that fixed that part of it for the most part. Just seems like the slack on X is the same on my other printer and i don't have these problems on that one. Thanks for the ideas, I will recalibrate my extrusion but i think i'm a little under what i originally calculated.
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Remember that it may not be just the belt.
    Check the motor drive shaft -- the sprocket that drives the belt has a set screw.
    If it wiggles loose that can do this as well (although if it gets really loose it will be more noticeable).
     
  17. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    I would also check the speed settings in whatever slicer, and slow down whatever the name in your particular slicer is for "any movement that isn't a printing movement" if everything else checks out as properly tightened.

    On a regular CNC this would be a G0 that was firmware defined (also known as Rapid Traverse), but it looks like 3d printers put an actual feedrate for "rapid" movements and I've seen instances where this speed was high enough that the printer would get too much momentum built up for the stepper to lock down on when it got to the end of the movement (usually on the Y-axis, but no reason why the X-axis couldn't be affected by this if the movement was long enough).

    The solution is to either increase the power going to the stepper that is affected (and risk overheating them if you don't have active cooling fans on them) or decrease that rapid movement speed to only a little faster than your printing speed (so, instead of 150-180mm/s, maybe 100mm/s vs. the printing speed of 60mm/s).
     
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  18. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    ill try that too. I slowed my jerk and acceleration way down and i think that helped.
     
  19. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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    Well i tightened up my X axis belt, made sure all the set screws were tight, and braced the Z axis rods and i think it's good to go. I have a 25 hour full spool job going right now so i'll know for sure tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestions!
     

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  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That looks a lot better.
     
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