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Solved ABS on with the factory hex hotend?

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Fruition_Factory, Mar 20, 2016.

  1. Fruition_Factory

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    Just got a dozen rolls of some good ABS, I have not upgraded the hot end to the E3D V6 as I don't feel it is necessary until the factory one breaks. The spools have a recommended temp of 220-240 listed on them.

    Can anyone offer any insight before i crank up the temp and have a go with ABS? I'm not worried about the curling and all that, just want to know if the added 20 degrees in the hot end is going to be a problem? Anyone running ABS through their factory hot end on regular basis? What temps are you using? I have one of the newer R1's with the built in Z stabs and such, not one of the kickstarter versions.
     
  2. Quest

    Quest Member

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    Not a problem with the stock hex. I print ABS all the time. Depending on the ABS I print in the rang of 230 to 245.
     
  3. Fruition_Factory

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    Thanks quest, appreciate your time and help. I think I'll start at 230 and go up then, was not quite sure where to start.
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Biggest problem with ABS is keeping the environment stable so that it warps and curls less.
    Printing it is not an issue with the stock components.
     
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  5. John Huggins

    John Huggins Member

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    I print ABS Almost all the time at 235 and 90 with no problems. Again, the biggest problem with ABS is keeping the environment stable.
     
  6. jediknight0

    jediknight0 Active Member

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    I print all the time in ABS... usually at 250 & 100.
     
  7. WADZOQUADZ

    WADZOQUADZ Member

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    i dont know how you guys do it. iv never been able to print ABS on my R1 with the hex or E3d . It curls and warps on even small parts for me. Tried like everything. Different temps , rafts ,abs slurry ,hairspray etc . no luck. maybe a enclosure would work but not willing to go that far just for ABS . I stick with PLA,XT,PETG mainly.
     
  8. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    I can't get abs to print on my fully enclosed modified replicator 2 without warping, if it does print then its too hot inside and it ends up like goo and has other issues. I have printed it on my robo3d on buildTak, but anything larger than like 3x3 inches will warp. Enclosure hs never helped me I just dont even use ABS anymore. PETG print easier and is stronger for me.. I haven't bought ABS in over a year. I have one spool left and it will probably sit there forever.
     
  9. jediknight0

    jediknight0 Active Member

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    Yes, ABS in finicky but the ability to vapor-smooth is a big selling point for me.

    Warping is always a problem, but I've found a few things that help:
    1. PEI build surface
    2. enclose the print area using aluminum foil & tape
    3. time of year (summer is easier than winter [i.e. dry air better than wet air])
    4. hot (250c minimum) ABS (the hotter, the better layer-to-layer bonding)
    There's no perfect solution however. I've also found that things in the rear left corner of my build platform want to warp more but I'm unsure why. I suspect air turbulence from my 30mm hexagon fan.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    There are alternatives to vapor polishing (which is good because nothing else will support that and there are some awesome filament choices that are not PLA or ABS). The upside to vapor polishing is that it is cheap.
     
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  11. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    .. and not very labor intensive.

    But as @mark tomlinson mentions, there are better filaments and other ways to finish plastic parts.

    There is always sanding, filling and painting.
    There is XTC-3D from Smooth-On.
     
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  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I can attest that the XTC-3D works really well.
    It can cover a multitude of sins.
     
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  13. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    First I've heard of that! How does it work?
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Geof likes this.
  15. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    That stuff looks amazing! Got some on the way lol
     
  16. Terry Reilley

    Terry Reilley Member

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    I print about 60% of the time in ABS at 235 and heatbed at 80. I also use PEI and just completed my Kelly enclosure this morning, but can't attach it because I am unable to print the brackets because my printer is down waiting for parts (new Hexagon). When I initially applied the PEI to the print bed, my ABS didn't warp - at all. A few prints later and it is either warping or impossible to remove from the PEI without harsh words. I'm about ready to find another hobby.

    I use Hatchbox almost exclusively and have never had any problems with it until recently. I like being able to sand it and/or use acetone to smooth it. I haven't tried the XTC-3D yet because I'm too busy spending money on parts.
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The few times a year I actually do any ABS we always use our home-built-vapor-polishing-getup because 'ABS' :)
    Just easier (and less chemicals) to use XTC
     
  18. You can try ABS Juice. ABS Juice is 60% scrap ABS pieces and 40% Acetone. Mix together and let dissolve. Then spread onto the heat bed before a print.
     
  19. jediknight0

    jediknight0 Active Member

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    I've thought about XTC before (and have a lot of experience with products from Smooth-On), but the need to manually apply it would lead to an imperfect finish. Anything that involves finishing by hand is likely to do that.

    In other words, spray-painting (not hand painting) and vapor smoothing are all touch-less activities which lead to a more consistent surface... IMO, of course.
     
  20. WheresWaldo

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