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Finishing methods for Taulman 910

Discussion in 'Printing Filament' started by jcloer1, Mar 28, 2016.

  1. jcloer1

    jcloer1 New Member

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    Does anyone have tips/suggestions on how to get production quality finish from this material? I'm considering bead blasting and dyeing it black.

    Has anyone bead blasted this material? If so...what grit did you use? Did you do a multiple step process with more than one grit size? Before or after dye (assuming dye was used)?

    Any info is greatly appreciated!!!

    Thanks!
     
    #1 jcloer1, Mar 28, 2016
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Most I have done is light sanding and painting.
    It comes off of the printer with a darn good finish as is (really smooth).

    Are you getting a better finish from other filaments? If so then your settings for the Alloy 910 may need a bit of a tweak.
     
    #2 mark tomlinson, Mar 29, 2016
  3. jcloer1

    jcloer1 New Member

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    I have only ran this Nylon once, on a single part. Otherwise I have only ran PLA. The PLA makes great parts, but doesn't provide the material properties I need for this particular product.

    I love how smooth it is coming off the printer for internal, functional parts but I would prefer the outside to be a bit less slippery.

    I need to dye it black too, which will also be a new process for me.

    I generally run my PLA at 210 extruder and 60 bed temps. I need to try reducing the extruder temp at some point though because it is nearly impossible to remove support material from the parts.
    I run the 910 using all of Simplify's default Nylon settings except that I run the extruder at 240. I just lost 10 hours of run time on my first batch with this material. I had tried just using the Simplify default at 220, but had massive curling throughout the entire bed. :(
    I am using Elmer's washable glue sticks as they have worked beautifully with the PLA and I don't have any other tacky materials in house just yet. I may have to make an emergency run somewhere to try...I forget the name of the mat I was reading about...Garoline..?
     
    #3 jcloer1, Mar 29, 2016
  4. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I use Alloy910 on occasion, but only have sanded it and not blasted. A vibratory drum might be a better way than bead blasting. As far as coloring after the fact, I have had some, although inconsistent, results from using an acid based dye such as Jacquard's (click here). This dye is used a lot in the RC modeling community for Delrin parts.
     
    #4 WheresWaldo, Mar 29, 2016
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  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Ah. Yes, that is a function of the material. Sanding or tumbling in a drum definitely work and I imagine bead blasting will as well.
     
    #5 mark tomlinson, Mar 29, 2016
  6. jcloer1

    jcloer1 New Member

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    Thanks for the tips guys!
    I thought about a tumbler too, but I have a sandblaster already and don't have a tumbler. Sort of silly since I also handload ammo. :)

    I'll try the beadblasting approach and will post results (assuming I can get some parts to stick).
     
    #6 jcloer1, Mar 29, 2016
  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Glue stick sometimes works better for me than just hairspray with Alloy910, but even that is inconsistent.
     
    #7 WheresWaldo, Mar 29, 2016
  8. jcloer1

    jcloer1 New Member

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    Sheesh. I lost another two hours this morning because of an apparent plug up. I pulled that off and added another layer of glue. Knock on wood...but so far so good. I'm an hour and a half into my 30+ hour build and it seems to be sticking pretty well for the moment. Fingers crossed it stays that way!
     
    #8 jcloer1, Mar 29, 2016
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    For what it is worth -- from my own experience acrylic paint and primers seemed to work fine on this with nothing more than a bit of fine grit sanding. Same for most* of the other full-on nylons as well.


    *there are a couple of odd blends that were a hassle
     
    #9 mark tomlinson, Mar 29, 2016
  10. jcloer1

    jcloer1 New Member

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    Hi Mark,

    Thanks for the input! That will likely be my approach for other parts, but this particular product is functional and slides in and out of a tight area, so I'm a bit concerned about paint being scraped off. I expect to be using black dye on these.
     
    #10 jcloer1, Mar 29, 2016
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Well that makes more sense. Let us know how that turns out. I have not tried dye myself, but I have seen the results from others doing it to various flavors of nylon (so it can work). Alloy 910 is a bit of an odd-duck in the nylon world so good luck :)
     
    #11 mark tomlinson, Mar 29, 2016
  12. jcloer1

    jcloer1 New Member

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    Thanks! I'll post results (hopefully). :)

    I just had to restart the batch...again. Glue sticks were NOT working at all on this material. I'm now trying bare glass. Stay tuned...
     
    #12 jcloer1, Mar 29, 2016
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Hairspray on bare glass worked for me (bed at 50c) but I did have to dial down the Z offset just a touch to get it to stay firm.

    As a material I do really like 910, it is tough and not too flexible
     
    #13 mark tomlinson, Mar 29, 2016
  14. Emprint

    Emprint New Member

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    Hey Jcloer1! What applications are you looking to use this nylon for?

     
    #14 Emprint, Oct 3, 2017
  15. Susanne Adam

    Susanne Adam New Member

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    I have done it but the dye process was used in a later stage for me.
     
    #15 Susanne Adam, Jul 30, 2019

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