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Unanswered Bed has shifted against plastic base

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Mike B, Mar 31, 2016.

  1. Mike B

    Mike B New Member

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    I just got the new Robo 3d plus last week, nothing but issues, a have read a few of the fixes that are needed, but the actual heated bed has moved to the left side against plastic housing of printer....the magnets under table are lined up in their little metal bases on the base below the glass. I want to know why a company would even sell a piece of crap like this? Is there ZERO quality control? The Z-axis seems to be the only thing working correctly. Im half tempted to just return the printer before even bothering to waste my time rebuilding the whole printer.....that was the reason i bought this one in the first place.....says its ready to run out of the box...hahaha...really? very disappointed in this purchase!
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Have you called their tech support line?

    http://robo3d.com/contact-us/

    If you just bought it then use that warranty. Shipping is hard on a printer.
     
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  3. GAmbrosio

    GAmbrosio Active Member

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    Mike, sorry you had issues. I got mine back in February and it was great until recently where I have a couple of parts that failed. I contacted Robo and I think they will send me those parts.<$20.

    Hopefully they get yours squared away. Have you contacted support/made a Level 2 appointment? I was told if the printer is "jacked," they will replace if necessary. 3D printing takes a lot patience, some mechanical/electronic, etc. Skills and inclination. A turnkey, print and forget system is yet to come. Perhaps the Mattel Thingmaker may change this?

    But it think if you give it a chance you will be happy: here's some of the things I've made since Feb-

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  4. Mike B

    Mike B New Member

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    I had talked to them about software issue the day i got it, but havent over everything else as of yet. But i will try to do it as soon as i have the time. Thanks guys
     
  5. GAmbrosio

    GAmbrosio Active Member

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    I found that you can skip tier 1 with the make an appointment option in the support section of the website or if you are inclined, you can skip the whole thing by the send me parts option. Take pictures and have your serial number (R1+ is located on the back, opposite of the power cord.)


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  6. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    If something as critical as the parts you described were messed up, you'd have been better off returning it to the store you bought it from for an exchange vs. getting pieces from Robo in Snail Mail.
     
  7. GAmbrosio

    GAmbrosio Active Member

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    Most places, i.e. Best Buy and Fry's will not take returns on opened 3D printers. If OP bought it from Amazon, then, yes. Otherwise, he will have to work with Robo to get it fixed or replaced.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    #7 GAmbrosio, Mar 31, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2016
  8. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Can you post a picture of your issue?
     
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  9. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I've had mine for a while and yes you are the technician so if tinkering and learning is not what you want then don't waste your time with 3D printing.

    If your ok with learning and working on a mini factory then the robo is awesome but only due to this forum. These guys are insanely knowledgeable and if your patient share photos or video of your issues they/we can help you out and even offer work around a for most/all issues.

    I personally use this list

    1.try to fix it myself
    2.while doing one use the search function to read about related issues
    3.ask questions with as much detail and photo as I can
    4. Grab a beer and brace myself for the insane amount of intelligence that heads my way
    5. Fix machine with the assistance provided to us all by this forum and make notes for the next time

    I hope you keep your printer as they can be amazing machines but if you decide not to no harm no foul, it's not for everyone
     
  10. GAmbrosio

    GAmbrosio Active Member

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    So true and you learn all this rather quickly. The only thing I would add would be, get ready to spend a little money. But there's no such thing as a cheap hobby or a free hobby.
     
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  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    True, it is a HOBBY after all :)
     
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  12. Steven Stowell

    Steven Stowell New Member

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    I have had mine over a year and yes I have had to do a few fixes. I have done a few upgrades but all the tinkering has been worth it. I have had a lot of fun printing cat toys, toys for my wife's grand child, and the around the house items I didn't want to go into Lowes to get. Last month i printed radio knobs for a stock trans am from the 80's. I received my printer with some shipping breakage but RoBo sent me the parts quickly. It's a leaning curve to get it really working well and printing parts but well worth it. The folks here in the forum are great about answering questions.

    Sent from my toaster via pigon
     
  13. Mike B

    Mike B New Member

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    I have fixed most of the issues with a complete rebuild, but im curious why the first layer of print is not sticking at some of the outer edges, is this because i didnt get the glue stick out far enough maybe or could it be something else?
     
  14. Mike B

    Mike B New Member

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    Image1459623118.339896.jpg . Here is the photo of my issue
     
  15. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Your Z offset looks too high.

    What software are you using? Mattercontrol? I don't know how to use that program but someone else should be able to chime in. Change it to be .1mm closer to the bed and you should be pretty good. In simplify 3d the default is -1.0 z offset so -0.9 would make it closer to the bed. In mattercontrol I don't know if they use the negative values or how they do it.

    If you adjust the Z offset it will print closer to the bed and smush everything down more.
     
    #15 KTMDirtFace, Apr 2, 2016
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2016
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  16. Mike B

    Mike B New Member

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    I will give that a try, thanks
     
  17. Mike B

    Mike B New Member

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    I have got it to work much better now by upping the filiment temp and bed temps 5° each. has anyone taken the metal pieces off the bottom of the bed before without breaking the glass? Id love to get them off and relocate them over about 5/8" or so....the table is only about .03" away from printer cabinet.
     
    #17 Mike B, Apr 13, 2016
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2016
  18. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    A heat gun and a single edge blade could be essential tools in pulling the magnets off the bottom of the glass bed. Epoxy is all that is used to attach them.
     
  19. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Really? thats good to know, Off topic I had to epoxy the magnets on my new bed and what I did was put the magnets in the holes and epoxy on top of them and slid the bed into place( i measured and marked it first ), but there was some goobers in the holes from the rail so one magnet is epoxed on all crrooked on the bed. I was wondering how to get it off so a heat gun will do the job?
     
  20. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Yep, if you didn't use JB Weld then a heat gun is about all you need. Most 5 - 60 minute epoxies start to break down at 200 - 300°F. JB Weld is about 600°F, it is nasty stuff, if you ever have to remove it grinding is about the only practical way.
     
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