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Unanswered Got my parts from Robo!

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by GAmbrosio, Apr 5, 2016.

  1. GAmbrosio

    GAmbrosio Active Member

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    I was originally planning to wait until the old hotend died completely. However, thanks to my silly notion that filament that has not been reviewed is a good idea, that plan has accelerated. Last night, the heater block boot completely disintegrated and had problems with the thermistor staying put even after wrapping it in Kaplon.
    Further, the nozzle clogged and stayed clogged. So what the hey, I had a new hotend courtesy of Robo. The videos and posts unfortunately we're about removing the R1's hotend, fortunately, we have Mike Kelly. So got it swapped, i immediately seasoned it and installed the oiler I printed on Sunday and it is working perfectly. Seems like whoever QC'ed my machine missed that my heater block was not on all the way and it was about a quarter turn off.

    Anyway, with all that behind me, I am now looking into a EDV6 like many of you has already done. Can you tell me the advantage over the stock? Also the replacement hotend from Robo did not have an insulator boot, but the thermistor and heater were snugged,l am assuming by the set screws on the bottom of the heater block? The original one did not have that? Is the replacement old stock?

    Lastly, I tried installing the Y pillow block thingies but could not get the screws off- it just kept turning. Any ideas? TIA.


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  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The only real advantages of the E3D are :
    1) you can buy individual bits if something needs replacing. You don't have to buy a new hotend.
    2) it is easier (ready from the start) to get to where flexible filaments are usuable with it

    Is it a better quality constructed unit? Yes, but frankly that won't often matter.

    Don't get me wrong, both my Robo's have one installed, but it is not like when the Robo came with a J-Head :)
     
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  3. GAmbrosio

    GAmbrosio Active Member

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    Mark, was it as easy as replacing the hexagon, pretty much plug and play? Does it come with the same connectors that will match with the ones that's already in the machine?


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  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is not any more complex to install than the Hexagon really.
    However it does not include connectors in-line like you have now (those are Robo specific).

    Either don't use the connectors or wire the existing ones in with the new hotend.
     
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  5. GAmbrosio

    GAmbrosio Active Member

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    So it may behoove me to just run fresh hook up wires to the board using j connectors?


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  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It might be worth running new wires for sure (I don't have any connectors in the way).
     
  7. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I wired jst connectors to my e3d. No issue so far up to 300 celcius (poly). I'm sure it's not nearly as secure as wiring all the way back but I also reused the hex heater and am saving the e3d heater for when mine dies :). I'm wierd like that though. My e3d accepts oversized filament and flexible which the hexagon (stock) did not. That's the only reason other than service that I picked it :)

    The new hexagons come with set screws and a tube/cartridge style thermistor which is better than the rubber boot but if you grab an e3d get the m3 stud thermistor from @Printed Solid and you have a more durable thermistor and no firmware change (makes for more of a plug and play event, only mechanical changes).

    For the e3d if you have an r1+ you will need new fan mounts and the quick release plate, all on thingiverse, make sure you print in advance to avoid nonsense :)
     
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  8. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Didn't see an answer to this. These bolts have nuts on the bottom. So you will need to remove the cover and put a socket or wrench on the nuts.
     
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  9. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Atta boy Damian totally overlooked that!
     
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  10. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Danza*** not sure if that one was beer or autocorrect lol
     
  11. robocad

    robocad Member

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    I got an e3dv6 after my stock hotend on a prusa i3 clogged and became useless, its been working really great but it is a pain in the ass to assemble, considering its an $80 item is really a crock.
     
  12. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Assembling the hot end? I think it takes maybe 10 mins, I'd also rather assemble it myself as it teaches you how to service it at the same time :) there are pros and cons to all purchases but having to assemble something that you will eventually have to take apart is a pro in my mind
     
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  13. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Robos replacement hex is only $39...not too bad really for a decent hotend compared to $80 for the v6, and is about the best price for a hex that I have found. Getting rid of the boot and replacing with set screws actually is a good thing. Now if you really don't like the idea of assembling the e3dv6, they do sell them assembled for around $78. http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/V6-hotend-Fully-Assembled-1.75mm-and-3mm

    I agree it is always hard to try something new, but you will grow from your mistakes as much as your successes...sometimes more.
     
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  14. robocad

    robocad Member

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    It took 2 people over an hour to fit the tiny sleeves over the thermistor wires, stick the thermistor in the tiny hole and screw it down (washer face down mind you) using the tiny hex and allen wrench, twist the tiny wires to the other tiny wires on the plug all the while keeping the tiny metal crimping tubes and heatshrink on both wires without them falling off, then sliding the crimp tubes over it without undoing the each tiny wire twist, crimping oh so carefully and heatshrinking it without burning the hole thing up.

    I didnt pay $80 to learn how to do their job.
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Well there is your problem. :)

    There are a lot of posts suggesting to forego the regular thermistor and use the metalstud style when you do the upgrade.

    None of that hassle.

    Although even the regular thermistors are not much more than a 10 minute job with some care, but for your first time I can see it being longer.
     
  16. GAmbrosio

    GAmbrosio Active Member

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    Sounds like the $39 purchase of the Hex, as this one eventually dies is a more prudent investment :).


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  17. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    That depends on if you want a serviceable hotend with a 2mm supported travel area or stick with the nonservicable hex that you just replace the whole thing when failed

    :)

    I like to be able to service the hotend and run oversized filament (the bore of the hex is 1.8 for 1.75 filament that has a +\- .05 tolerance....+.05 and you can't run it +.04 and you'll have issues with drag like I did with abrasive when running the hexagon.

    It's all about your needs :)
     
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  18. GAmbrosio

    GAmbrosio Active Member

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    By service, I reckon you mean modding or jerry rigging- sorry not quite up with my maker lexicon and colloquialisms :) I see, so essentially the hex is plug and play with the limits on the products design and intended purpose, whereas flexibility, customization, tinkering, and, let's be honest, a certain level of failure and frustration with the E3D?


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  19. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    By serviceable I mean you can take it apart clean it and get it back to like "new" from issues (bad jams, crash etc)

    No Jerry rigging or tinkering with the e3d. You assemble,wire it to the ramps or use jst connectors you purchase separately like I did to utilize the oem harness (no issues in doing so that I'm aware of). If you buy the m3 stud thermistor there are no firmware changes to be made which makes it more plug and play for us new guys that havnt got to firmware yet and it's not nearly as fragile (a lot of people break the oem due to them being fragile)

    You will either need to drill the hole in the extruder mount that filament goes through to the hotend to allow for the 4mm tube or print a new one allowing for it and countersink where the e3d hotend "butts up" against the wade carriage or print a new one that allows (files on thingiverse) and a new quick release plate (also on thingiverse) as the e3d spaces get for the clip is wider than the hexagon. I drilled mine and it's working fine.

    It sounds like a lot but it's not. In a year of running exotic filaments and cheapo filament that is oversized I went through 3 40.00 hexagons (120.00), I have had no issues with the e3d to date (less than 80.00).

    The only tinkering is with the tube that supports filament if you want to run flexible which is actually just notching a hole for the hobbled bolt in a longer piece of the tube, very easy to do and 10ft of tubing was under 8.00 on Amazon when I bought it)
     
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  20. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    An edit for the serviceable part that I left out is if you have a part fail, bent, snap off ect you can buy just that part for the e3dv6 whereas if something physically breaks on the hex you have to replace it
     

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