1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

E3D Titan Extruder

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by RotusZ, Apr 9, 2016.

  1. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 18, 2015
    Messages:
    1,247
    Likes Received:
    461
    I don't understand your question. this motor http://www.amazon.com/Short-Bipolar...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

    Just has wires coming out of it. they are not long enough to run all the way down to the board, so I snipped it off and soldered the connector on to the wires that I linked. So I should be able to plug the stock plug into it now.
     
  2. ProfessorPinky

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2016
    Messages:
    69
    Likes Received:
    8
    I understand the wires are not long enough but if I were to attach wires long enough to reach into the base, are the wires going to need a plug or do the wires terminate into a terminal block?
    [​IMG]
    minus the breadboard
    or
    [​IMG]
     
  3. ProfessorPinky

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2016
    Messages:
    69
    Likes Received:
    8
    Never mind the wire connector question. I will wait for the connectors from DigiKey.
     
  4. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    1,605
    Likes Received:
    1,003
    You guys look like you're making some great progress! Once all is done, let's summarize and put it on new clean thread and I'll sticky it so others can easily benefit from your work.

    Regarding the fit of the idler arm. It sounds like it's just an issue with mold flash that can be corrected fairly easily with a little careful reaming / sanding. I wouldn't be concerned about affecting the structural integrity just by cleaning that up. Delrin is a good low friction material for wear applications, so it is perfectly appropriate for it to be mounted directly on a spinning shaft like that. If the shaft was spinning at high speeds, we'd have a concern, but it's good as-is.
     
  5. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2015
    Messages:
    2,161
    Likes Received:
    1,077
    Thanks Matt. I will ream it a new one tonight. Haha! I can then finalize the assembly and share my models for the mount. Hopefully I can do a couple runs with the stock hex configuration before switching over to the big V6. My goal was to have a universal mount that worked with stock parts and fans while also working with mods like the V6 or smaller stepper.
     
  6. TstarkEngineering

    TstarkEngineering Active Member

    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2016
    Messages:
    114
    Likes Received:
    38
    Hi Folks!
    Well my version seems to work quite nicely, and is a lot lighter than stock carriage.

    If anyone wants to donate paypal wise to Tyler@robstark.com for the design great. If not enjoy anyways :-D

    Current version:
    Stark Carriage v2.1
    There is always continual improvement going on so always check for current version.

    Settings:
    Use what you desire but I used the following:
    .2mm layer height
    black ABS
    support

    Cable Chain:
    http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00880AVL2/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1461680057&sr=sr-1&keywords=cable+chain
    e3d V6:
    http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6
    e3d Titan:
    http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder

    Thingiverse:
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1521037


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    #246 TstarkEngineering, Apr 26, 2016
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2016
  7. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2015
    Messages:
    2,161
    Likes Received:
    1,077
    Ok. I took a 5mm drill bit (good to have a comprehensive metric drill bit set) and reamed out the idler lever hole for the motor shaft. It went from a 4.94mm hole to a solid 5mm hole. Goes onto the shaft with no problem now. I can spin the idler around and the motor wont turn. No wobble either. So it finally seems to be a perfect fit. I am going to do a wet sanding with a fine grit paper and polish of the end half of the motor shaft to give me some insurance on any friction issues in the future.

    Also, the the hole for the PTFE on top of the idler lever is really tight. Tom's review talked about the problem he had with the PTFE backing out on rougher filament like carbon fiber. I don't think I will have that issue what so ever. It took some effort to get the tube all the way in and she is not coming out by hand. I might need to take pliers to it if I ever want it out. I was concerned it would pinch the filament. I tried some Hatchbox PLA and no problem. Not sure if that will be the case with all filament, but so far so good.

    With that, how long of a piece of PTFE do you all think is needed for coming out the top of the Titan when using 1.75 mm filament? I have two 4.5 in pieces (one from the Titan and one from the V6). So maybe I will just leave it all...maybe half so it doesn't interfere with the tall prints.
     
  8. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2015
    Messages:
    2,161
    Likes Received:
    1,077
    BTW, the debate of which pancake motor to use continues between the 20 mm (13Ncm(18.4oz.in)) and 25 mm (18Ncm(25.5oz.in)) deep motors. The 20 is supposed to be 140g and is actually about 128g. The 25 is supposed to be 180g and is actually about 149g. So for 21 more grams you get a 1/3 more torque. Now it will change some options for orienting the front of the Titan on the stock carriage, but it might be worth it to go with the 25 mm. Especially since it also has the plug on the motor. Just food for thought. Not sure why the difference in advertised and actual weight on these motors. At least E3D knows how to use a scale. They say it is 60g and I got just about that (62g) on my scale.
     
  9. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 18, 2015
    Messages:
    1,247
    Likes Received:
    461
    I think with the simple design I copied from thomas/youtube the higher torqe motor would work fine, it sits up a little higher and will clear the belt block. I think the stock motor would rub intoto the belts..if facing the back. I'm printing a couple things out tonight and hopefully will have it up and running tonight.
     
  10. Rascal

    Rascal Member

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2016
    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    2
    Dont want to sound like a moron, but... what is wrong with the original motor? Other than orientation.
     
  11. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2015
    Messages:
    1,322
    Likes Received:
    510
    Weight more than anything else.

    If you don't have any issues with ringing at corners or don't mind printing 60mm/s or less, it's probably fine.
     
  12. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 18, 2015
    Messages:
    1,247
    Likes Received:
    461
    For me nothing other than orientation I really dont want the motor facing forward.. Though a lighter motor should be nice too.
     
  13. Rascal

    Rascal Member

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2016
    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    2
    Do you need to mod the settings for the light nema 17s or are they the same? I am noobin into this. I have to take it all apart to figure out my bolt-on design. Will post if its successful of course.
     
  14. ProfessorPinky

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2016
    Messages:
    69
    Likes Received:
    8
    Is it fairly simple to move the x-axis mechanical switch from the carriage to the x-axis? All the carriage designs have the screw adjustment screw on the x carriage so it must be something that was changed midway through the original R1's life cycle.
    It looks to be easy but I rather not find out that I needed something after trying to relocate the switch.

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
     
  15. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 18, 2015
    Messages:
    1,247
    Likes Received:
    461
    I havn't tried both my R1 and R1+ have the x axis switch on the rail with the screw on the carriage? did it not used to be like that?

    The switch just screws in to the top of z carriage ( mine has holes already), and the wires are routed up with the z switch on the left side. So I don't think it would be hard.
     
  16. ProfessorPinky

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2016
    Messages:
    69
    Likes Received:
    8
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    And the switch on the carriage below the "STEEPER MOTOR".

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
     
  17. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 18, 2015
    Messages:
    1,247
    Likes Received:
    461
    By looking at your first picture you already have the screw holes and if you are printing a new carriage anyway, just unscrew that stopper block..remove your x switch and re-route your wires so they come up with the Z switch on the left..screw the switch in like this ( this is my R1, my R1+ is the same )

    [​IMG]
     
  18. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2015
    Messages:
    2,161
    Likes Received:
    1,077
    @ProfessorPinky , what are your plans for mounting? Are you going to want to use the stock motor? Do you have the hex hotend or the V6? I might have a solution that doesn't require you to relocate the switch. Mine is the same as yours. I just haven't taken the printer apart to put the Titan on yet, but the mount is printed and assembled. So far it is looking to be a good to go. I just need to get some time on the printer to get it hooked up for the final fit test.
     
  19. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 18, 2015
    Messages:
    1,247
    Likes Received:
    461
    Also I think my new "Simple" mount that I basically copied from Thomas Sanladerer will work for the stock carriage and stock motor ( if it faces forward ).. and should work for the hexagon. I need to test it on the hexagon I found my old one in a box and I just need to tweak one thing. too busy trying to get it to work for my weird modded carriage right now though.
     
  20. ProfessorPinky

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2016
    Messages:
    69
    Likes Received:
    8
    I have the 20mm stepper I am going to try to use. Of course I have the Titan, the V6, and the "Eruption Pack". I have a new hex as a spare and hopefully it will always stay a spare. I have the stepper motor plug(s) on order from DigiKey that should arrive in the next couple of days. And 10 pairs of JST connectors in case I need them. I would like to add two parts fans and maybe a larger fan for the hot end.
    Nothing to do with the carriage but I must do something about the fans in the underside because the seem unnecessarily noises especially when a print ends and the fans are still screaming until I the printer off when I wake up. Lucky for me the wife says they don't bother her.

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
     

Share This Page