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PolyCarb and Bridge Nylon.

Discussion in 'Printing Filament' started by Rascal, Apr 25, 2016.

  1. Rascal

    Rascal Member

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    Has anyone had success printing either of these on the R1 plus 80 Deg bed? If so what did you use? I am going to attempt 3M 77 adhesive after my new upgrades.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Polycarb I used a hotter bed temp (110) but bridge worked fine with less (45 was fine).
    Hairspray on the glass was enough for stickage.
     
  3. Rascal

    Rascal Member

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    Were you using the stock bed? Mine cuts at 85 I think. Is it thermally safe to go higher? I read on the manufacturer website to use glue and a really hotbed for poly. But also that someone else used non heated bed and lots of tape adhesive.
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The bridge you can print on a cold bed. I am not sure the same can be said for polycarb.
    I suppose if all the ducks lined up perfectly then you could get it to work but that would be hugely environment dependent. It is the next most problematic filament (IMHO) after the worst (ABS). The good new with it is that once you get it working the numbers seem to work pretty reliably for it without changing randomly. It is less sensitive to surrounding heat...
     
  6. Rascal

    Rascal Member

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    Okay, thank you all. I am hoping to use it since it very strong and heat resistant.
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    BluPrint is an excellent choice for strong and heat resistant. It is also as easy to print as PLA.
    (Tg of 110C)

    Just tossing out options :)
     
  8. Rascal

    Rascal Member

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    I will look into it... I already bought the poly...
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yea, I like the PC prints when completed. It is a nice material, but you need to spend a little time dialing in the settings.
     
  10. Rascal

    Rascal Member

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    Mark, Are you saying that the 6 pin is fine to go up to 120C or do I need to throw in some high current capable connectors in anyway?
    Also, do you have any tips for settings? I am using MatterControl/with Fusion 360.Thanks.
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I think any high-current connector would be fine. Something with (for example) 15a or more of current capability.
    I used 30a Anderson Powerpoles.

    https://powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpole-connectors-30amp-bonded

    (just a site with good pictures, you can find them cheaper elsewhere)

    Others have used JST. As long as they are high enough DC current capable you are fine.
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    And we use Solidworks with Simplify3D :)

    Any specific settings you are trying to dial in?
     
  13. Rascal

    Rascal Member

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    You mentioned dialing in the settings, I was going to use the suggested settings from reprap, but if there are any other settings I should know of such as fans, layer, infill, basically if it stuck out with you in particular. I would like to save a print or two. I would love to use S3D but currently do not want to spend the money when Mattercontrol is fitting the bill at the moment. :)
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    For both materials small test prints are essential so that you can dial in what your best settings are for each (temperatures, retraction, speed, etc.) Once you hit a good combo the PC should be fairly steady. Nylon was (depending on the blend) a bit more sensitive to the environment.

    Until you start having slicer related failures the free ones are fine. Wait until you outgrow them.
     
  15. Rascal

    Rascal Member

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    Okay, Thanks. I am in process of boring out the carriage for the V6 upgrade, Then I will design a bracket for the Titan and reassemble and print in Taulman Bridge nylon.
     
  16. Rascal

    Rascal Member

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    Mark, I tried the Nylon and got about 3 mm of solid fill before the ugly warp on the edges made me cancel .. ugh. I swapped in my carbron fiber PLA and will print again. Ive read up on it and people are talking fiberglass. I might try rubber cement or #77 the next go round. Any other suggestions?
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Which flavor of nylon? The 230 was horrid. Even the 618 sort-of sucked, the 645 and 680 were much better.
     
  18. Rascal

    Rascal Member

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  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That stuff shouldn't warp much. You might need more bed heat.
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It did warp a small amount at the edges for me, but it was not anywhere near ABS style. More heat (it only calls for 45 -- try 60) was enough to calm it down.
     

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