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PLA Wood Filament

Discussion in 'Printing Filament' started by Jutte, Apr 23, 2016.

  1. Jutte

    Jutte Member

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    Not sure just what I expected, but I'm not terribly impressed with the wood filament. It's brown but beyond that it just looks like PLA. What properties does it have that makes it more desirable than brown PLA and what applications is it suited to?
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The Laywood and Woodfilll (brands) not only look like wood, they smell like wood and sand/finish like wood.
    Only ones I use. I did try a sample off an off-brand (can't remember which now) and it was just brown PLA.
     
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  3. Chuck Erwin

    Chuck Erwin Active Member

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  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I used hatchbox wood, colorfabb corkfill-woodfill-and bamboofill

    They all smell like wood and can be treated like wood, if you dont smell wood burning you probably got the wrong stuff and should ask for a refund or replacement
     
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  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The Bamboofill is just weird. I like it, but weird :)
    Really light wood.
     
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  6. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Lol! It is weird but gives a nice finish when printed and prints easy:)
     
  7. Jutte

    Jutte Member

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    Thanks! I was using Robo wood filament. Your examples look more like what I wanted.
     
  8. pitcjd01

    pitcjd01 New Member

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    Yeah, I wasnt impressed with the robo brand wood filament.

    Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
     
  9. RyeMAC3

    RyeMAC3 Member

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    I've used ColorFabb's Wood PLA on my R1. It's awesome. Not a single jam. It really smells like burning wood while it's extruding. Here's a nixie clock enclosure that I made out of wood PLA and stained for a vintage look.

    [​IMG]

    I like how the print layers actually make it look like the wood has a grain.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Todd Wessendorf

    Todd Wessendorf Active Member

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    That looks great, RyeMAC3!!

    I was going along great with my spool of Wood PLA from ZENTOOLWORKS, but then I got a clog. Then after clearing it out, got another, the another. Tried regular PLA between the clogs, and they came out fine, but every time I switched back to the wood . . . . clog.

    I'm guessing there was a span of filament in there that was just bad. I kept thinking I would be past it, but no luck.

    Todd
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    What size nozzle? The suggested is 0.6 or larger for woodfil.
    I have used it with 0.4, but normally go with the 0.8
     
  12. Todd Wessendorf

    Todd Wessendorf Active Member

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    0.4 here. Thanks for the tip. I'll pick up a 0.8 (and perhaps a 0.6) and get 'em a try. (I've got clog clearing down to an art form now) :)
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The larger ones also cut down overall print time on normal filaments significantly as well.
    Minimal resolution difference with a 0.8mm wide layer as opposed to 0.4mm
     
  14. RyeMAC3

    RyeMAC3 Member

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    I'm using a stock ROBO 3D R1 with no modifications. I printed 3 of those clock enclosures on three different occasions without any clogs.
     
  15. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Colorfabb does a great job thrpugh my stock r1+ but to run cheaper brands i swapped to e3d and larger nozzles. The cheapo fill filaments would jam up in the smaller bore of the orig hex. I run .8 nozzle .3 layer height .82 layer width through my e3d no clogs and faster prints :)
     
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  16. Todd Wessendorf

    Todd Wessendorf Active Member

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    Reliable source for 0.6 or 0.8 nozzles you could recommend?
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  18. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I bought mine from printedsolid.com very reliable
     
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