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Solved [REPRAPGURU] 2004 LCD Smart Display Controller - With RoBo R1

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by darcangeloel, Apr 13, 2016.

  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    They are on either side of the carriage (here is one -- same thing other side).
    Mine have holders/mounts that are blue, yours are probably black and slightly different since I added autoleveling by printing the holders and adding the switches and wiring it up (I have two betas).



    20160418_143720.jpg
     
    #41 mark tomlinson, Apr 18, 2016
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2016
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    and I had to stand on my head to take that shot from the back of the printer -- I can't get around there the way ours are setup. Both have that at the far back :)
     
  3. WZ9V

    WZ9V Active Member

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    Anyone know what size the bolts are that hold the top onto the base? I printed one of those XXL controller cases and it mounts using the side screw holding the top piece on. I read somewhere its a M5-16mm. BTW if you print a XXL case do not believe the youtube video that the screws on the RepRapDiscount display are M3 ones. They are more like M2 screws/nuts for mounting the LCD onto the back piece. There is one for the knob that can be M3 but all the others are smaller.
     
  4. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    I have a huge bucket of scrapping supplies (Lots of screws :) ) I think mounted them with PSU case screws like these. I think they are M3 screws. The screen is very light. You won't need much.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. WZ9V

    WZ9V Active Member

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    The one I got from Printed Solid has four holes around the LCD that are smaller than M3. The hole on the lower knob/button part was an M3. It looks like the LCD holes on the lower circuit board are M3 but the actual LCD has smaller and the two boards are soldered together so I have to go with the smaller LCD holes. I have it working with the one M3 but I'd prefer to have a few more holding it in.

    I am having one heck of a time trying to loosen the side screw that holds the rounded top case on so that I can attach the LCD to that side like it was designed to do.
     
  6. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    So, I confirmed this was 100% my fault and not the controllers fault. Here are a few things I learned from Robo Support as well. The Z axis limit switches are supposed to rest on the carriage only once they are opened does the firmware do anything about it. (I was worried because the display always reads end stop hit:Z after auto homing. The other thing I learned is to be very careful about taking the extruder off and pay very close attention to the placement of wires. When the X axis was homing. I was getting a stuttering grinding effect because the wires were getting in the way of the carriage and therefore the screw that hits the limit switch. Thus it was only making partial contact.This was fall out from where I had to remove the two screws holding the extruder in to remove some PLA clogged in the nozzle. When even you put it back on, be very,very careful about the wireplacement. (I also really needed to lube the X axis and that stopped the stutter. Now she is up printing beautifully with no stuttering or grinding. I have to say, I think the Robo 3d R1 might be the best printer to learn on. Even when you make stupid mistakes, the hardware and software combination they have are damn good. Even though I fouled up all the previously mentioned items. Never even once did it fail to print.... Very cool. Thanks for all the help Mark. You sir are a gentleman and a scholar :) As far as I'm concerned we can now confirm you can add an LCD controller to the R1 for $15 which to me is awesome.
     
  7. GAmbrosio

    GAmbrosio Active Member

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    Got this on Sunday and installed it last night. Works perfectly.

    One noob note. If you plug it in and adjusted the contrast and all you see are two rows of bars?

    The cables are flipped. Meaning you have the EXP1 and EXP2 flipped. On the "smart adaptor" the labeling is not clear, at least on the one they sent me. But it works thereafter.

    One hiccup, if you hit the os (oh shoot) button, the LCD stops responding and will require a power cycle to get it going again. Maybe someone here (hint: Mark, Waldo, geof, et al...) can chime in with a better fix? :)


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  8. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    I found the stop button is the same as well. I treat it like an emergency button. Did you notice you have to basically go the wrong way when you spin the knob? Not too annoying but, I think it's not as intuitive as it should be. Also did you notice the End Stops Hit Z message keeps displaying even though this is how the Robo is supposed to work. Either way, its an awesome deal for an LCD upgrade. I was glad I took the small risk and bought one :)... Glad someone else got one as well.
     
  9. GAmbrosio

    GAmbrosio Active Member

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    There is a firmware hack for the knob, some searching through the forums. I agree it is counter intuitive, but I'll get use to it.

    I paid the extra 3.99 to ship next day, but even at $20 it is the best solution for me to get my MBP back. I tried the Android tablet with the app, but that was clunky and has the same problems that a computer will have; failures from USB.

    I also ordered the Full Graphics one yesterday which is actually cheaper considering I paid for the extra shipping, but $16.90, I could not resist- I spend more on lunch :)

    That one will require a firmware hack, but I figure it is my gateway to know the firmware albeit it is one line and one character to remove :)
     
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  10. GAmbrosio

    GAmbrosio Active Member

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    Oh, regarding the z- end stop trigger thingy, that's normal operation since the controller reports the enstops that were triggered and when the printer starts to print, the gcode generated homes all axis, and the z gets hit last. So it is telling you that the z stop was the last one triggered.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  11. darcangeloel

    darcangeloel Member

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    Hmm so it's a good thing it displays that? LOL I thought it was displaying this as some sort of warning/error message being like hey digbat maybe you shouldn't be going that low. I just ignore it :)
     
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  12. GAmbrosio

    GAmbrosio Active Member

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    Exactly, it is to let you know that the endstop was hit, not that the horrific grinding noise would not have...
     
  13. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Mine always seems to require a reboot to restart the arduino. Now i just scroll to stop.print :)
     
  14. Ravenwood

    Ravenwood New Member

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    I just picked up one of the LCD controllers and I just cant seem to get it working. I get a blue screen and at max contrast I get black boxes. Robo help desk told me I do not need an update. I have tried switching the cables on the controller but then get no power to the screen. Any help would be great.
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Which one?

    This one: https://www.amazon.com/REPRAPGURU-Display-Controller-Adapter-Printer/dp/B015NDAKE4

    Does not need a firmware update. The contrast is usually too high or too low, but if you have moved that back and forth it is not the issue.

    I assume you have completely powered down everything (including unplugging the USB cable) ..

    It may be a bad LCD.
     
  16. Ravenwood

    Ravenwood New Member

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    That's the exact one I have. I unplugged everything when I installed it then plugged in the power (not the USB) and turned on the printer. The screen lit up blue with no characters I slowly turned up the contrast and all I ever got were the black boxes.
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Black boxes is too far.
    If you have it connected correctly (not rocket science as you have discovered) and it is not working then you likely have a dead one.

    I have installed about a dozen of these and the Full Graphics variety and out of those I had two that were DOA. Another one had the contrast pot break off when I was adjusting it (cheaply made).
     
  18. Ravenwood

    Ravenwood New Member

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    Well that sucks. I was excited to get this up and running. I guess I will have to talk to them about a return and a replacement
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yep. That would be my suggestion. While it is remotely possible something is awry with the RAMPS (the card it plugs into) I have never seen that happen.
     
  20. Toro1966

    Toro1966 Active Member

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    With the two black bozes, your wires are crossed. Did you try swapping them?
     

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