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Partially Solved Broken Glass on The Heated Bed

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by 3D Printer Man, May 22, 2016.

  1. 3D Printer Man

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    I have a broken glass bed, I have contacted support. In the meanwhile I what to print. What to do?I used glue to remove the part
     
    #1 3D Printer Man, May 22, 2016
    Last edited: May 22, 2016
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    About all you can do is to put a thin sheet of glass over the bed. Aluminum would work too for that matter.
    They don't warrant the glass bed other than for shipping damage so you may have to buy a replacement.
     
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  3. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Yea there isn't much you can do with a broken bed. The glass or aluminum might work for now but good chance your just down
     
  4. 3D Printer Man

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    What type of glass can you give me an image or what? I could maybe buy from like amazon!
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Geof likes this.
  6. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    How bad is it broken? I saw somone on here just blue painter tape the hell out of it temporarly. ( print PLA on that though )
     
  7. BenMac

    BenMac Member

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    If you do buy a new print bed from Robo, it should have a discount. I paid $50 (shipping included) to get my bed replaced. I had to do some modding to get it to play nice, but it was nothing that some soldering skills couldn't fix. So, it isn't quite so bad, as long as you are still in the warrantee period.

    I might recommend having an extra plate of glass, painter's tape, or something else between the print bed and your future prints. I have been religiously using painter's tape. I have done lots of printing, without any real issues.

    Edit:
    If you don't mind soldering, I might suggest putting something like this between the bed and the board. I should say, for heated part of the bed's wires. Then some other connector for the temperature sensor. This makes it really quick and easy to take the bed off.
    Do not use the smaller connectors for the heating part of the bed, they can't handle that much power.
     
    #7 BenMac, May 22, 2016
    Last edited: May 22, 2016
  8. 3D Printer Man

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    I can still print with it from the middle to both ends their are problems.
     
  9. 3D Printer Man

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  10. 3D Printer Man

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    What type of aluminum any links?
     
  11. 3D Printer Man

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    Here is the link to a picture
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  13. Wild8Wire

    Wild8Wire Member

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    Glad I'm not the only one with this issue (meaning I didn't think I abused it).

    Ran a print this morning, and when prying the piece off (used hairspray for adhesion), the bed cracked diagonally all the way, front to back. Must have started earlier and didn't notice, because there's a faint line on the bottom of the printed part.

    May be a good time to try PEI (on top of the cracked bed), and run w/o heat...
     
  14. 3D Printer Man

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    I just bought a new bed.
     
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  15. 3D Printer Man

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    Mine glass straight on the top of the r1 symbol.Now I accidentally supper glue my now bed with the magnets to the y-carriage. Any ides how to remove the bed from the carriage. I have some, but would like more.
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Acetone will release super glue.
     
  17. 3D Printer Man

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    Okay so use acetone to free the bed from carriage

    Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
     
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If that is where you put the glue, yes :)
     
  19. 3D Printer Man

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    Thanks

    Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
     
  20. 3D Printer Man

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    Okay well now It is partially resolved
     

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