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PLA Colorfab bambo fill pla

Discussion in 'Printing Filament' started by Central Utah 3D, May 16, 2016.

  1. Central Utah 3D

    Central Utah 3D New Member

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    I've seen a couple here say they have printed with it.

    Just got a roll in the mail today and it clogged up the printer (standard robo r1+ with nothing special done to it)

    Do I need to increase the nozzle temp? Do I need to change some of the other settings??

    Any help would be appreciated

    (Conversely, anyone want to buy a roll of it?)
     
    #1 Central Utah 3D, May 16, 2016
  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Can you give us some more details? Print temp is helpful for ballpark, what does the filament measure at? Speed? Etc.

    have it and get good get prints and would be happy to help you out.

    A tip is larger nozzles are very good for filled materials
     
    #2 Geof, May 17, 2016
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Oiler (maybe) and a larger bore nozzle (0.5 or 0.6) will help.
    Slower print speed will also help if you stay on a 0.4 nozzle.

    All new materials take experimentation to get right.
     
    #3 mark tomlinson, May 17, 2016
  4. Central Utah 3D

    Central Utah 3D New Member

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    I've just been using the default settings (only settings I've even remotely changed are temps for XT filament, fill material, and support material. Tried again with it last night and bumped the temp up to 230 (read someone's blog that said they varied between 220 and 240 to make different colors so I went midway) and it didn't clog. Top layer didn't cover the fill pattern. But progress. It didn't clog up and make me want to pull my hair our this time.
     
    #4 Central Utah 3D, May 17, 2016
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Add more top/bottom layers (1mm total at a minimum)
     
    #5 mark tomlinson, May 17, 2016
  6. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Temps are only good for ballpark but i run it at 235 hotend to 250 for the color change on one printer and 210-225 on the other
     
    #6 Geof, May 17, 2016
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  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Good point. The 'wood' filaments respond to higher temperatures by turning darker when they print.
    I usually opt for stain or paint, but if you want an interesting comparison you can just play with the temperature.
     
    #7 mark tomlinson, May 17, 2016
    Last edited: May 17, 2016
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  8. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    #8 Geof, May 20, 2016
  9. 3D Printer Man

    3D Printer Man Guest

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    I use it.
     
    #9 3D Printer Man, May 21, 2016
  10. Central Utah 3D

    Central Utah 3D New Member

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    Once I'm done with the roll I don't think I'll order again. It's kind of fickle, one turns out, the next looks like crap. Forgot to turn down the extruder from 125% to 100% for one print and it was reaaaaaaaaly bad.
     
    #10 Central Utah 3D, Jun 28, 2016
  11. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Im sorry to hear that. I run mine through an e3d and its beautiful. If you ever upgrade id suggest giving it another try :)
     
    #11 Geof, Jun 28, 2016
  12. cjryker06

    cjryker06 New Member

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    Keep in mind that Colorfabb has a guide to using the woodfills they offer. Supposedly you want to have very little if any retraction, 0.40 nozzle or larger is suggested and not very slow print speed. I have had mixed results and the coloring by temp is neat. Be advised that filled materials all have increased abrasion rates. Wood is supposed to be very close to PLA and ABS. Colorfabb XT (or other carbon fiber), glow in the dark, t-glase, metal filled are a lot harder on the nozzle, showing damage with as little as 250g of use. Proto Pasta CF torched my stock nozzle. It would be wise to invest in a high lubricity nozzle as they resist abrasion very well without the heat draw of hardened steel nozzles.
     
    #12 cjryker06, Aug 8, 2016

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