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Unresolved Gaps in the outer shell

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by zenekNY, Jul 3, 2016.

  1. zenekNY

    zenekNY Member

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    Hello everyone!
    I just recently bought another R1 Plus, I made a bunch of upgrades to my first R1, which include E3D V6, Z rods etc. I started working on the new one and I cannot get rid of a little gaps in my print. They're on the outside shell and they are not where the extruder retracts but in random spots.
    I looked at where the extruder retracts by using simplify3D preview and those spots are not where it retracts.

    I thought that maybe there is a little clog in the nozzle keeping the plastic from extruding properly, so I did taulman nylon pulls to make sure it's all clean inside, no luck with that, the nozzle turned out to be perfectly clean on the inside, I made sure the screws on Wade's extruder are tight enough so the extruder pushes plastic properly. I'm out of ideas already. Help please!
    IMG_2287.JPG
     
  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    If you have coast one turn it off and see if the issues persists
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  4. zenekNY

    zenekNY Member

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    I turned the coasting off and tried twice, those artifacts are in different spots when used the same exact G-code file I finished printing and started another one over right after and they come out in different spots so I don't think if they are software related, rather a filament or hardware issue..
    I mean, they do come out in the same area but not exact same spots :(
     

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  5. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I'm not seeing a hardware defect in those per say but it does look a little sloppy. Have you made sure your speed temp and layer cooling are good for that filament
     
  6. zenekNY

    zenekNY Member

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    this was printed at 85mm/s and 50% uderspeed for outline, 200C extruder using hatchbox filament. I'm getting a little smaller defects on my E3D V6 over a stock hexagon hotend that came with my new robo.
     
  7. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I don't think I'd do 85 and slow down to 42.50 :) not saying that's your issue but I'd set it at 50-60mm/s and 100 percent on the outline speed. Also might try running some test prints at a different temps to find what temp looks best for that filament.

    (In my opinion it looks a little hot)
     
  8. zenekNY

    zenekNY Member

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    I think you might be right about the temperature.
    200C might be a little hot for PLA, I just looked at a reel of my hatchbox and it says 180C-210C. I remember printing with 190C, then I decided to crank it up to 200C for a better bonding, I didn't notice these artifacts until few days ago.

    I will drop the temperature down by 5 degrees every test and observe the results, that would explain how I'm getting two diffferent results on two different hotends too, if the two thermistors were slightly different I would get a little hotter on either one of the printers, I also noticed a little stringing on my new robo, I wanted to blame my cooling fan setup, but it did fine before (I kept it from previous setup because I knew I was getting a new printer).
     
  9. zenekNY

    zenekNY Member

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    I'm sorry for replying this late but I was a little busy recently.
    It looks like the temperature was the issue and I'm still trying to figure out what temperature difference I should apply between the two printers that I own. The firmware I flashed was exactly the same for both printers, is there any difference between E3D V6's thermistor and the one that comes with stock hexagon hotend?
    I only changed few settings in the firmware in my new printer and those were Z Offset, MAX axis dimensions, names on the screens etc.
     
  10. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Yes. You have to reassign the thermistor type if you switch to an e3d and were using a hexagon and the same the other way sround
     
    #10 Geof, Jul 7, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 8, 2016
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If memory serves the stock is a type "1" and the E3D a type "5"

    The MetalStud (darn near unbreakable) thermistor is also a type 1 (like stock)
     
  12. zenekNY

    zenekNY Member

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    Ha!!
    So I just looked at my firmware and it turns out that the new Robo was set right, I just never changed the setting on my old one when I replaced the hotend with an E3D V6. I was running it with a wrong setting for few months thinking that 200C for PLA is perfect, meanwhile it was probably heating up to something less than that and that's why I was getting decent results with what was supposed to be 200C

    Thank you guys!
     
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  13. zenekNY

    zenekNY Member

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    I have another issue with my new robo!
    If you think I should open another thread let me know.

    I set two identical models on my two robos, both running almost the same settings (except retraction and coasting) and I'm getting severely under-extruded layers in small areas of the print on my new robo (stock hexagon)

    Can you tell me what am I doing wrong? Everything is calibrated in the printer and I change filament thickness accordingly to the filament I am using.


    Image1469806749.375864.jpg Image1469806764.009145.jpg Image1469806785.657127.jpg


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  14. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Best guess is that the top (thinner) parts are getting to hot. Slow it down if your alicer has a min layer time setting. If it doesnt slow the whole print down to see if that helps
     
  15. zenekNY

    zenekNY Member

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    Hello!

    I am using simplify3d and it is set to slow down at at this little area, so it runs slower at that spot. just ran few tests to see if the temperature is the issue and it seems like it is only when retracted, but with a constant pressure it doesn't cause problems. When printed in a vase mode it does alright.
    I've set the extra restart distance to a negative value of -0.1mm and when I return it to 0.0mm the gaps disappear, but I am still left with big zits, and coasting doesn't seem to help much. I'm trying different coasting settings now to see what helps and what not.
     
  16. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Hmmm what is your retract speed. I don't use the coast feature on the robo.
     
  17. zenekNY

    zenekNY Member

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    20 mm/s retraction and I don't need to use coast on my E3D V6 Robo either, but I'm getting severe blobs at the end of an outline on my (new) stock hexagon Robo

    Maybe not severe, but significant :)
     
  18. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Hmmm blobs not from retraction or layer start points correct ?
     
  19. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Is it pla? Are you using an oiler ? What's your temps ?
     
  20. zenekNY

    zenekNY Member

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    Originally I had gaps in the layers because too much retraction was sucking air back in to the nozzle and the air was popping gaps in the outer shell when pushed back out.
    Now that I reduced retraction to 0.7mm and 20mm/s I'm and getting little blobs where the perimeter starts and ends. A little on each end. Meaning that I could use a little coasting and set extra restart to negative. But when I do, I get cavities in outer perimeter.
     

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