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Marlin Firmware Upgrade 1.1.0 RC8 & RCBugFix (For R1 & R1+PLUS)

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by WheresWaldo, Jun 11, 2015.

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  1. TRAVIS KEMP

    TRAVIS KEMP Member

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    Ok, i will start a thread, but wouldnt there have to be some differences since the r1 plus ramps runs 2 stepper drivers for z, but the firmware has dual z commented out? the thing is, if i plug the smart adapter board into aux3/4 with NO lcd ribbon cables connected, its still throws the printer halted error on s3d communication screen. Its like that board and the marlin board pins are mixed somewhere, even if its just one pin swapped, because its acting like its making a short with it plugged in causing this error? I have checked the smart adapter for any shorts whatsoever, and there is not overflow solder or anything. unless its in the smart adapter pcb traces its self? I have been trying to find out what pins on the adapter should and shouldnt have continuity between eachother because i tested each pin and went around to each pin to find continuity, and a few of them showed continuity to more than one pin on aux 3 and aux 4 this is just testing the adapter itself. idk where to find out if this is normal or not...screen/marlin shows up on the screen then says printer halted. Maybe someone else here has switched ramps boards and had a similar issue? just doesnt make any sense, everything works fine with it unplugged, so its not the LCD its self, if anything it would have to be the adapter, or ramps, or pins not setup correctly. If i dont get any ideas by tomorrow ill start the thread on this. Also i think that its pins because when i switched it to the non graphics smart controller in marlin, the lcd didnt work, but it also didnt throw a kill error. anyone have a pinout sheet for the robo3d r1 plus (black) ramps board with surface mounted components? couldnt find that anywhere, figured i would compare to make sure. also to eliminate the adapter as an issue, does anyone know where i can find what all the ribbon cable pins need to go to on the aux pins? maybe i could hard hire it myself making all the correct connections without the pcb adapter?
     
  2. TRAVIS KEMP

    TRAVIS KEMP Member

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    Got it working, had to define kill pin as -1, once i did that it doesnt throw the code, but doesnt that mean there is a short somewhere?
     
  3. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @TRAVIS KEMP
    Cheap Chinese clone of the LCD, probably from an early design spec. I don't think there is an issue.
    For example, my cheap LCD has a very minute range of contrast adjustment, it goes from all white blocks to unreadably dim in just a fraction of a turn on the potentiometer, almost unusable. But luckily I hit the exact spot it works and haven't touched it since. It's the nature of our hobby.
     
  4. TRAVIS KEMP

    TRAVIS KEMP Member

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    I would normally agree with anything you say, but the only thing with that, is with the ribbon cables unplugged from the adapter, meaning LCD not even connected, it still threw the kill reset pin 41. So unless it's the adapter? Which has the correct springs from repeat on it(red PCB) and the LCD also says repeat discount etc, and I was surprised to see my pot actually works really well, because I say a lot of people having this problem. Just pretty weird how it shorted out pin 41without the LCD even plugging into the smart adapter...
     
  5. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Did you go back to a Robo stock firmware and try it? If the LCD is new and you've been using the newer Marlin only, them let's see if same issue his with the old stock firmware. Also the R1+ uses a custom ramps layout that "open sourced" Robo had refused to release any schematic drawing... I'm obviously a bit sour about that. There are no real pin differences from looking at the old and new firmware pin definitions in respect to Z. So I'm thinking it has to do with something in the PCB for them to use two drivers for Z. I really have no clue since I don't have one of the boards for testing.
     
  6. TRAVIS KEMP

    TRAVIS KEMP Member

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    Yes I did try it with stock firmware last night, with the sainsmart board. Still the same thing. I agree I'm pretty sure there are some differences between PCB wise, I've got a robo board, but I have drv8825s running my z, so i can't put those in the robo board without finding what tracks to scratch thru for ms1 and ms2.
     
  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Some very early LCD controllers had one of the pin headers put on backwards, it might be that. But as Geof says this is really an issue for another thread and not this one since it is not specific to Marlin 1.1.0.
     
  8. TRAVIS KEMP

    TRAVIS KEMP Member

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    Got ya that's cool, I'll do that, btw the headers are on correctly, works fine now that I turned off the kill pin. Not really that big a deal, I mean I'd like to use the reset button on the LCD, but I don't print from sd. I just wanted the controller for mesh honestly. Thanks for everyone's help!

    So when do you think we will get UBL? Is that something that could/should be used with a bltouch or something other than our z stops that are wonky?
     
  9. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    You don't need the LCD for setting up MESH it's just easier. Also, unless it's a 30 min print, I almost always use SD. The LCD also gives you some great control over your print on the fly. I've never used my kill button, but everything else I think you will learn to enjoy.
     
  10. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    You won't see UBL until some time after Marlin 1.1.0 goes gold. Then someone will need to create all the configuration files to make it work with the Robo. I do this because I love my Robo and do not see anything other than personal satisfaction for doing it. I am not sure if UBL will be something I actively pursue. I will look at it, but it will depend on how much free time I have whether or not I will keep up with it. Just saying.
     
  11. TRAVIS KEMP

    TRAVIS KEMP Member

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    Ya I know, I've been doing mesh from s3d but it only steps down at .1mm at the lowest, wanted it more accurate and the ability to babystep if needed. I like I can pre heat from it, and all the other stuff too, I use my printer for customer use, so I'm printing a lot of prints, taking the time to save to SD etc I just don't like, and if I see I need to make a quick change in the guide I have to reduce to SD and all that crap. And mesh works fine, was just curious about ubl. Thanks for all your hard work!
     
  12. ProfessorPinky

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    @WheresWaldo Question regarding the November 15, 2016 files.
    After uploading the November 15 files I noticed Z would move up twice instead of homing down. It acted like when one of the endstops was not seated properly.
    What made it home again was changing the following two lines from false to true. These two line in previous release were set to true but. Are the new files being set for the use of a probe?
    #define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true

    #define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true
     
  13. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Nice catch @ProfessorPinky :oops: With so many lines to change I guess I let these two slip through. All versions of 11-15 need these two lines changed to false. It will be fixed in the November 30th files. There are a couple of nice things added already since November 15th.

    As might be apparent I don't use these builds personally. I have a rather more modified Marlin I keep track of for my own purposes, so it is easy to let a small thing like this slip through once in awhile.
     
  14. ProfessorPinky

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    No problem. Since I have you, I have performed MESH and saved with M500. My layer thickness is .25 and first layer height is set to 100%. If I print a single layer object that is 0.25mm tall should the object measure .25mm? If it is measuring between .34 & .37 would I need to adjust with G29 S4 Z#.### ?
     
  15. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    It should be no more than .25mm on the first layer than. You need some squish for adhesion so probably a little less. G29 S4 Z#.## is the way to adjust like you would for Z offset prior to mesh.
     
  16. ProfessorPinky

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    I'll try "G29 S4 Z-0.11"

    That seems like a lot but my calipers are $18 harbor freight calipers and may not be all that accurate.

    I can make it work. I wanted to make sure that is what I needed to do or if it is a place to start before trying to make any hardware or other changes.

    Thanks for the help.
     
  17. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    $18? I got mine for $9 at hft on sale. Haha
     
  18. ProfessorPinky

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    I got mine on sale and with a 25% coupon but they are normally on sale for $18.

    When sending "G29 S4 Z0.11", should the communication/terminal window give back a response? I thought it did the first time but just tried to adjust it and I am getting nothing sent back.

    I tried "G29 S4 Z-0.11" and the first layer went from 0.34mm to 0.45mm. Aiming for 0.23-0.25mm
     
    #878 ProfessorPinky, Nov 20, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2016
  19. ProfessorPinky

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    A̶l̶s̶o̶ ̶h̶o̶w̶ ̶c̶a̶n̶ ̶I̶ ̶s̶e̶e̶ ̶i̶f̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶G̶2̶9̶ ̶Z̶ ̶o̶f̶f̶s̶e̶t̶ ̶c̶o̶m̶m̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶i̶s̶ ̶a̶c̶t̶i̶v̶e̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶i̶t̶'̶s̶ ̶c̶u̶r̶r̶e̶n̶t̶ ̶v̶a̶l̶u̶e̶.̶ S̶e̶n̶d̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶G̶2̶9̶ ̶r̶e̶s̶p̶o̶n̶d̶s̶ ̶w̶i̶t̶h̶ ̶n̶o̶t̶h̶i̶n̶g̶.̶ ̶I̶ ̶c̶a̶n̶ ̶s̶e̶e̶ ̶M̶E̶S̶H̶ ̶v̶a̶l̶u̶e̶s̶ ̶w̶i̶t̶h̶ ̶M̶5̶0̶3̶.̶
     
    #879 ProfessorPinky, Nov 20, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2016
  20. ProfessorPinky

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    Never mind. G29 responds with status and values now as shown below. I sent M501 so maybe that did it. "G29 S4 Z0.11" still responds with nothing but it seems to be getting changed. I thought may a OK response would be returned. I used S3D and Pronterface.

    State: On
    Num X,Y: 4,4
    Z search height: 5
    Z offset: 0.11000
    Measured points:
    2.70000 2.37500 2.10000 1.80000
    2.82500 2.60000 2.35000 2.07500
    3.00000 2.82500 2.65000 2.45000
    3.40000 3.20000 2.97500 2.80000
     
    #880 ProfessorPinky, Nov 20, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2016
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