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NinjaFlex filament

Discussion in 'Printing Filament' started by Melody Bliss, Jan 13, 2014.

  1. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    I found V2 of their flexystruder, I'm printing it now. Files can be found at lulzbots webpage go to shopping -> tool heads ->v2 flexy tool head and then resources.

    ... the v1 doesn't have a cutout for the top of the hexagon or e3d, but the V2 does. Looks like another change on V2 is they got rid of the adjustment screw looks real simple. Neither have mounting holes like the stock robo R1 extruder, but i printed one of those quick release mount deals already. that the r1+ has.

    I think the luzlbot uses 3mm filament though so the PTFE hole is probably too big.
     
    #221 KTMDirtFace, Mar 23, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2016
  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Are you printing the Mini Flextruder v2?
     
  3. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    No I printed the TAZ 5 Flexi V2 although I think they are the same files..for that part of the extruder anyhow.
    I printed it last night, however its got 5.5mm hole in it for the larger 3mm(2.85) mm filament/PTFE that the lulzbots use. I was like oooh cool "print" before i went to bed without looking at it very close.

    Here is where I got the files
    https://www.lulzbot.com/store/tool-heads/lulzbot-taz-flexystruder-tool-head-v2
    http://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/accessories/tool_heads/version_2/Flexystruder_v2/
    - Old Assembly instructions. The new version doesn't have the adjustment screw anymore the rest of the install should be the same I think. ( drill size will be different once I mod the file for 1.75 )
    http://devel.lulzbot.com/TAZ/accessories/flexystruder/flexystruder-1.0/

    I have already taken their FreeCad file exported it to .Step so that Momemnt of inspriation could edit it. I modified the hole made it smaller for smaller PTFE tube and moved it over 0.55 mm to account for the filament being 1.1mm thinner. But there is a weird hole in their FreeCad file thats causing my STL to be messed up so I need to figure that out. When I export my STL there is a vert off all crazy. It does it on their original file too.

    EDIT: It must be a bug with FreeCad/Moment of inspiration I just rexported from freecad to .iges instead of .step and imported to moment of inspiration and then exported STL and the weird artifact isn't there..so i'll fix the file up for 1.75mm filament and print again tonight.

    Anyhow it looks like it should work.
     
    #223 KTMDirtFace, Mar 24, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2016
  4. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    After a bunch of musical chairs with 3d programs to get a file that wasn't messed up I have converted the lulzbot flexytruder to 1.75..printing it out right now. I had to do weird stuff, original file was FreeCad, FreeCad->Export to .iges. Import to 123D, export to .sat, import to MOIv3(my tool of choice ).. edit it and save STL. Without all that crazyness .iges files would have a weird hole in them in MOIV3. Dont know if it will work yet if I get it working i'll post my files.

    Edit: deleted wrong info. I should not have moved the hole over to account for thinner filament ha oops.

    Picture of failed test ( i offset the PTFE tube and it was impossible to feed )but looking promising..reprinting with i hope the right dimentions this time. As well as punched a hole out in the bottom to account for the black holder deal on the e3dv6 that holds the ptfe
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    #224 KTMDirtFace, Mar 24, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2016
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  5. rn_1604

    rn_1604 New Member

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    I did the mechanical pencil inner tube mod and it was printing fine for 30-40+g... Using saintsmart clear TPU here... However when I changed my default speed from 30 mm/s to 15 mm/s and turned my fan off, it buckled after a while. Nozzle temp is 230 degrees C.

    I changed it back to 30 mm/s and fan 100%, it buckled after awhile too. I realize all of my buckling occurs before the hobb wheel. I have already placed my tube very very close to the hobb wheel, yet it still buckles and got stuck. Any advice?
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    My tube goes on both sides of the hobb. It just has a notch for the hobb to work.
     
  7. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    What extrusion multiplier are you using in simplify3d for ninja flex? I just tried to print with my new Titan and its even worse than my flexystruder I had given up on. Using 1.0 on both.
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    between 0.8 and 0.9, but... that is with the standard gregs wade and the tube modification.
    And really, really slow (<1000 mm/min).
     
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  9. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I run standard gregs wade with a notch all the way around the hobbled bolt (stockbolt) and the tube on both sides 1.1 ext. Multiplier on avg 30mm/sec. Simple models like phone case 40-50mm
     
  10. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, yea this stuff just doesn't like me. I can't get it to work right with the stock wade with a groove cut in the ptfe...or my flexistruder mod( thats actually worked the best so far ).. And now my Titan extruder.

    It will extrude for a bit..then "something" happens and it just stops extruding and the drive gear slips on the filament...what that something is I don't know.

    Does ninja flex need an oiler? lol.
     
  11. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I think an oiler helps, i run one but dont know that its necessary. I have the tube and max the pressure on the tension bolts and let her run. I dont do a small notch as i couldnt get it to work so i did a very large hole around the entire hobbled bolt and it works very well so far. I also use a .6 nozzle or .8 it seemed the .4 caused me troubles
     
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  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The bigger nozzles DO help. I also have a large notch (the size of the bolt).
    You will need to experiment and see what speeds you can reliably print at.
     
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  13. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    I can't prin't at 10mm/s.. so it something besides speed. ( I printed at 60mm/sec on my replicator 2 without issue on accident ..forgot to change it but it worked )
     
  14. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Update: I kicked Ninja Flex's ass finally. and am now printing it now with my Titan extruder. I just had to loosen my spring tension..once I did that it quit getting stuck. Only took me a year to figure this stuff out LOL

    [​IMG]
     
  15. Jeff Lastofka

    Jeff Lastofka Member

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    I know this is an old thread, but....

    I read through the whole thing and kind of averaged all the advice plus a few tidbits from other places and I tried my first Ninjaflex today. Success right from the start:)

    Standard R1+ printer and hex extruder, .4mm nozzle. I added the BIC pen tube (2mm / 3mm) with a Dremel notch for the feed teeth. 75mm total length with side opening from 28 to 38mm from the bottom end. The opening grinding with the Dremel went about halfway across the tube for depth. 230C head, 40C bare glass bed, 10mm/sec speeds everywhere. No retraction. No fan. 1.25x extrusion multiplier. 50% infill triangles. I think that's about all the details.

    I ran hairspray the first time but the part was REALLY stuck down, so I've ditched that. I guess I could probably turn off the bed heat, too. I ran a couple small test pieces and now I'm doing my first larger part. Looking good so far.

    The only thing I haven't tried yet is removing the Ninja and switching back to PLA, but I haven't heard people complaining about that so I'm not expecting trouble there.

    Happy camper here......
     
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  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    No problems going back to non-flexible filament, just do a good purge with the new stuff to push out all of the flexy and you will be fine.
     
  17. Jeff Lastofka

    Jeff Lastofka Member

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    Thanks! I was a little concerned about some tension from the feed spool and started to think about a mechanism to drive the spool but then realized I could just unspool a bunch of the filament and let it hang down the side of my cabinet and then come back up. It's so flexible it feeds easily like that. Sometimes low tech is best:)

    At 40C and clean glass the part really stuck down, so I'll try no bed heat and I might start sneaking up from 10mm/sec too. 15 would be nice. It's 4x as expensive as PLA, it might as well print 4x as slow.... instead of 6x now.

    Do you know how large a tube fits in the extruder without drilling? My pen tube was 3mm.
     
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The standard 1.75mm bowden should fit.
    here is a link:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018JRMSQE

    2mm id/4mm od

    On the newer Robos some have reported that the hole the GregsWade uses to feed down into the extruder is slightly too small for the 4mm od and the solution for that is to remove the hotend and bore it out to 4mm. Mine both had no issues (but they started out as Betas and have been upgraded). The actual diameter of the feed hole is apparently only slightly less than the required 4mm so it is not a huge change.

    P.S. on our (non-Robo) delta I have a Gregs Wade installed and the bowden tube on it runs all the way up to the hobb from the effector (5 feet) and I had to bore that one out slightly to get it to fit.
     
  19. Jeff Lastofka

    Jeff Lastofka Member

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    Thanks for the advice so far. I don't really want to change much, since I'm having such good results with PLA, ABS and NinjaFlex using nothing but the stock R1+ with heated borosilicate glass and hairspray (plus the guide tube mod for NinjaFlex). I do plan to put the Teflon tube in place of my BIC pen tube because Teflon should just be better in principle. I've been poking around here to learn what I'll have to take apart to drill out for the 4mm. Do you know of any pictures or forum threads or whatever?
    I use no spray with Ninja, light spray with PLA, and a good two coats with ABS. It just works:) I'm not sure why people fool around with tape and other stuff. The hairspray's so cheap and easy. I use a triangular cardboard shroud when I spray to keep from getting all over the machine insides.
     
    #239 Jeff Lastofka, Nov 28, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2016
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If it is working as-is, let it be :)
     

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