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Solved Making the bed sticky - Thoughts?

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by CDitty, Dec 15, 2016.

  1. CDitty

    CDitty Member

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    Hi all. I'm curious about how everyone makes their print bed sticky. On my last little cheapy 3d printer, the bed was plastic and the printer put down a layer to stick to. On this one, the bed is heated glass. I tried using the glue stick and it stick a little bit but figured you needed to refresh it every time.

    Next I tried the hairspray method. I put on 2 coats and let it sit for about 5 minutes in between. When I went to print, the print didn't stick after a few layers and I ended up with a glob on the hot end and a disconnected wire. The video that I watched on it said you wouldn't need to reapply very often, but when I felt the bed, it wasn't sticky at all.

    What am I doing wrong? Fill a newbie in on how to make it work.
     
  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Hairspray needs to be in combination with heat to be "sticky". It will not be sticky to touch so you can't test it that way.

    What are you printing and how hot is the bed set?
     
  3. CDitty

    CDitty Member

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    Ohhhh. I thought that might be the case but I wasn't 100% sure. I was a little PO'd by then at the pulled wire so I had just given up for the day. Thanks for that tip.

    I was printing a flat round xmas ornament and the bed was preheated to 50c.
     
  4. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Uh, Material? Not what you were printing.
     
  5. CDitty

    CDitty Member

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    Sorry. Newish and sporting a sinus headache. :/

    Printing PLA.
     
  6. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Make sure you are printing near the center of the bed. The Robo heater only covers about 67% of the build area and there can be a significant delta in bed temperature between the center and the edges. 50°C should be plenty, but try 55°or 45° just to make sure. Some printers are just a bit different as well as PLA is not always PLA, you will need to experiment a bit to find the right setting for you. Also cheap hairspray works better than those newfangled hair safe sprays. Something like Aquanet Extreme Hold or White Rain will work better (you might find those at the Dollar Store, KMart or Walmart in your area).
     
  7. CDitty

    CDitty Member

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    Ok. thanks. I'll try upping the bed temp a few degrees. I looked for Aquanet or white rain and couldn't find it yest at walgreens. Once I get my wire situation fixed, I'll try it again and then try those if the one I got doesn't work well enough.

    I didn't realize that about the bed heater. That makes sense.

    I'm using my initial PLA batch from my first printer. My first print with it on the Robo did well. If I keep having issues with it, I'll swap it out with some fresh PLA.
     
  8. WizarDru

    WizarDru Member

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    Welcome!

    Let's see if we can figure out what's happening and make the frustration go away. On my R1+, I have moved to using hairspray as my default. I'm currently using Aquanet (Unscented), though several brands will work. Make sure you get unscented because especially after it gets hot, some brands will be...fragrant. As Waldo said, it won't actually be sticky to the touch once dried...it's the chemical interaction at temperature that works the magic. One reason I use hair spray instead of glue sticks or tape (which I used to use) is that its much easier to get off the bed once the print is done.

    That said, it sounds like the actual problem may be the position of the print head for the initial layer. If Can you describe what happens when it starts the print? Does filament go on the bed but not stick? Does filament come out but not stick to the bed at all? you're finishing with a blob because nothing is sticking, you may need to adjust the Z-Axis closer to the bed to get proper adhesion.
     
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  9. CDitty

    CDitty Member

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    Thanks WizarDru. I watched the initial circle and a few inner circles start and they were sticking. I went to do other stuff and when I came back, it was a big glob on the hot end. The pla was coming out fine and steady. Didn't notice any issues there.

    When I had first used the R1+, I had a Z axis issue and support got me fixed. I had just finished setting it to the paper level(right term?) where I put a piece of paper under it until it barely moved. I did that on both sides and it looked level.

    Here's what I was printing.
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1929436
     
  10. WizarDru

    WizarDru Member

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    Nice ornament!

    What slicer are you using? I would try using the M565 command to move the print head just a little closer to the bed by 0.10 or 0.20mm and see what happens. Without seeing a pic of the print in process, my guess would be that it's laying the material down, but it's a fraction too high to properly get good adhesion. I would try a 3MM box or calibration print to make sure things are working.

    Other possibilities might be temperature issues, though if you've got the bed at 50 and you're printing PLA, that shouldn't be an issue, I'd think. What temperature do you have the hotend set at?
     
  11. Rigmarol

    Rigmarol Well-Known Member

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    Something else to try; PLA actually doen't always need to have the bed heated.
    I've done many very nice prints with no heat at all. Just something else to try.

    As for hairspray, I just grab whatever the wife or daughters leave out. Some are smellier than others but all have so far worked for me.
    I've never needed to try tape or glue. Hairspray has always done the job for me.
     
  12. CDitty

    CDitty Member

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    I am just using the factory defaults right now. It's set at 210. When you say slicer, are you talking about the print program? I'm using mattercontrol.

    I printed out the circle that MC has for calibration and it printed ok.
     
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  13. Rigmarol

    Rigmarol Well-Known Member

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    Yes, slicer = MC in your case.
    I print PLA at 190-195 most of the time.

    Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
     

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