R1 plus mods that make a difference

I've been searching the forms and wasn't able to find a thread that covers this topic. My hot end clogged the other day and required a complete disassembly and heating up the head to remove the PLA that was stuck in site. Not necessarily a fun project but at least I learned something. Seems to be printing great now. I should mention (as odd as it may sound) that I've only printed PLA with this machine. I was under the impression that ABS required an enclosure for best results so I haven't went that direction yet and more than likely would use a dedicated printer for ABS.

I've had my R1 plus for a year now, purchased it in December of last year. I'm happy with the printer 'for what it is' and the cost. All the problems I've encountered so far were either caused by my inexperience with 3D printers or something simple like the clogged hot end. I have a pretty strong CAD and modeling background so that never was an issue.

Now to the reason for this posting. My R1 plus is essentially stock outside of some corner printed bases and four square rubber vibration isolators I snagged from McMaster Carr. So what mod(s) should I be looking into that will REALLY MAKE A DIFFERENCE (note the CAPS) to its performance, longevity and preventive maintenance?

Regards,
-JW:

 

Here are a few mods that I made.

http://community.robo3d.com/index.p...cable-up-to-underside-of-lid.7557/#post-65724

http://community.robo3d.com/index.p...le-clamp-for-robo-3d-r1-plus.8130/#post-71298

http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/extruder-tension-screws-mod.7240/#post-62897

http://community.robo3d.com/index.p...truder-front-hold-down-screw.7519/#post-65384

The front hold down screw is especially handy. Basically, I picked up the screws at a swimming pool place and ran them on my lathe.

Lee

 

Thanks for the suggestions Lee and the links.

Mark, since you are definitely someone in the know, you seem to indicate there aren't really any 'performance' enhancements that make a substantial difference. I'm fine with that statement. That being the case, what would be the 'next step up' in a single head 3D printer with a little higher resolution and speed, with a similar printing footprint, whether it be kit or assembled 3D printer?

-JW:

 

JWW are you still running a single cooling fan? That would be helpful to upgrade to dual cooling. Especially since you are doing PLA. As for ABS and enclosures, there are enclosures for the Robo. Printedsolid.com has one. Another nice add on is an LCD controller that you can also get from Printedsolid.com. That makes it easy to change print parameters on the fly like speed and temp. You can also do things like Change Filament using an LCD. With more folks going to MESH bed leveling using the newer Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 firmware, the LCD will also help getting that configured easier. BTW, updating to that version of the firmware is another great upgrade, but I would suggest being a little familiar with firmware settings before diving in since it is still an RC and not a final release.

 

Yeah I wouldn't hold your breath on them having those for sale again anytime soon. Last I heard they are working on mods to the x carriage, but no real traction for sales at this time.

 

I agree with danzca6 - MESH bed leveling using the newer Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 firmware.

On my R1+ I get a perfect first layer. First time - every time.

If using Release Candidate firmware scares you, wait a short while. From the chatter on the Marlin site it looks like a final 1.1.0 release is coming very soon.

 

Yea I was looking at one that Mike Kelly designed titled RoBo3D Dual Fan Holder for Hexagon Hot Ends. I haven't read enough about it to see if there were any problems or a newer design, fixes etc.

I've read about enclosures here as well as on that website.

What's the 'difference' between the LCD controller and the MatterControl Touch (which I have already)?

I haven't a clue what mesh bed leveling is, nor anything about the Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 firmware is all about. I don't even know what version firmware I'm running nor how to validate. I'm not stupid, I do know what firmware is. <g>

-JW:

 

... guess I'm one of the lucky ones, I have no problems other than understanding what 'each' of the settings actually do and what tweaks what. Yes I've had stringing issues on smaller parts (and other things) but then I have to tweak the settings a little to fix it. I've never had a first layer issue either or bed leveling problems. Probably why I don't know what most of your are talking about.

-JW:

 

Some people nitpick certain things, just like I do detailing my bike, or getting my 66 C10 ready for a show, or wiring up and rebuilding an old tube amplifier but most of those mods are done to make them aesthetically pleasing, not necessarily performance modifications. Now if I add nitrous to my Bonneville bike or modify a tube amplifier with some Teflon capacitors, that's a performance mod.

-JW:

 

That's the design I am still using. Works great. I am actually going to upgrade to a remixed version that allows for a 30mm hotend cooling fan. It does well.

You paid a lot for the MC. Haven't used it to tell you for sure what the diffs are.

This video does a good job showing the difference of ABL and MESH. He is wrong with that you have to do it each time. It is just one setup, save, and go. Does a far better job of learning the actual layout of your bed. Plus the 1.1.0 RC8 adds a lot more refinement to the printer.

 

If that isn't totally true. I do have a way to save off your mesh and reload without probing. Maybe I should do a bit of a writeup explaining how that is done. I use it all the time because I am always tinkering and reloading firmware checking new features.

 

danzca6 ... thanks. Very much like tramming my Bridgeport Mill. I've never noticed a problem with my R1+ bed not being level. What am I missing here?

 

Thanks WW, never realized that could happen.

Regards,
-JW:

 

Ok, lets take the similar build volume out of the equation and add open source/hackable/programmable instead.

-JW: