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"Exotic" Filament with R1+

Discussion in 'Printing Filament' started by Owl, Dec 19, 2016.

  1. Owl

    Owl New Member

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    Hello community, I am here inquiring about what the title says, I have been looking to use different filaments after mainly only ever using ABS and PLA. I know that at my R1+ was marketed as being able to print different filaments natively, and have done some research with different temperature settings necessary and the MatterControl settings I'll need to use. So, I think I'm ready. Here's my shopping list:

    • MeltInk3d Clear 1.75mm PLA 3D Printer Filament
    • Proto-Pasta Stainless Steel PLA - 1.75mm
    • HATCHBOX 3D WOOD-1KG1.75 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.05mm, 1.75 mm

    Can I pull the trigger? Are all of these OK to use with the R1+(with correct, specific settings, of course)? I really want to be sure before I spend the money and feel like a goon for not knowing better, but the forum posts about a couple of these were spotty at best. One user said that an Aluminum filament clogged his print head and was very frustrated. It's hard to imagine being able to print metallics at all, so I am a little hesitant to assume I can!

    My second question is about T-Glase. Has anyone experimented with it in the R1+? Am I OK to use it? The prints look remarkable and there is a long list of good characteristics for 3d printing with it. Anyone have some experience or knowledge that could chime in? Thanks!
     
  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Just note that the filled filaments generally cause more wear on the brass nozzle as a direct result of their abrasive nature. That is why most would suggest a hardened steel nozzle if you are going to use 'filled' filaments. Also woodfill of almost every kind has very large bits of wood fiber (as far as filament is concerned) which can result in an increase in clogging if a nozzle orifice is too small. Moving to a 0.6 mm or larger nozzle can minimize or eliminate all chances of clogging.

    Side note: Hardened steel is not the same as stainless steel and are not interchangeable with respect to abrasion resistance.
     
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  3. Owl

    Owl New Member

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    Thanks for this, I will look into the hardened steel, and wider nozzles. I'm really glad you took the time to let me know, I am going to hold off until I get the new nozzle. ;) I am still curious about anyone with T-Glase experience, too!
     
  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I use tglas from taulman. It's good stuff just be careful as just with Petg, it can pull chunks out of your glass.
     
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  5. Owl

    Owl New Member

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    Woah. So are you saying that it bonds so well to itself that it can get stuck during the print and rip parts of the print off? Surely you aren't referring to my glass print bed? (If so that's scary as hell)
     
  6. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    The glass bed can chip (and does with all filaments, just worse with some). It won't take the print off the bed but when you do is when it can/may happen
     
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  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you worry about it get a small (1/8") sheet of regular window glass and clip it to the bed. Print on that. If it chips/cracks, throw it away and get another
     
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  8. Rigmarol

    Rigmarol Well-Known Member

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    I have a small chip in my bed that came off using PLA. It happens.
    I've had good success printing over it with the raft setting on. I'd think (don't know for sure) that printing with a raft would minimize chipping do to uber-adhesion too.
     
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  9. Chuck Erwin

    Chuck Erwin Active Member

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    I have used the wood filament and had good results, you probably could buy and go through several regular nozzles before you reach the cost of one hardened one.
     
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  10. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    But @Chuck Erwin, honestly, do you know anyone that simply replaces a nozzle just because, even if it is worn or on any kind of a regular schedule? Chances are you will keep using it until you actually have had a preventable problem. The cost is not the issue otherwise you would replace the brass nozzles regularly. Just pay the price once and then you don't have to worry about it for the practical life of the printer.
     
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  11. Chuck Erwin

    Chuck Erwin Active Member

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    What if don't want use a hardened nozzle? Plus there are other factors when using a hardened nozzle. I do get what you are saying but I just don't think a hardened nozzle is the answer to all your printing needs.

    I was taught to do regular maintenance it's not that big a deal to me. I also change the belts out too. I would replace the brass nozzle without too much thought just because it was time.
     
  12. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I can see both sides, on my end (just saying how i do it, not trying to tell anyone what to do) i swap to a hardened nozzle for every filled filament (wood, carbon fiber, glow, etc) i do this after a 13 hour print in glowfill and gor almost. 1mm extrusion lol. 25 bucks almost 2 years ago and.she still works a ok. That said...im lazy about it and leave that hardened nozzle on until i go to a smaller nozzle (brass) then when back to normal peinting the brass goes back on...

    Im also that guy thst deals with a fun buzzing as long as its working to keep operating costs down lol.

    Different strokes :)
     
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  13. Chuck Erwin

    Chuck Erwin Active Member

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    I don't think there are many guidelines out there. I like a fun buzzing too! hahaha
    I do have a hardened nozzle in my drawer that I haven't touched yet because I haven't seen the need for it yet. So I am a bit of a hypocrite.
     
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  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Nozzles do wear.
    Personal experience (and testing with a pin gauge)

    I had a 0.4 brass that I used for over a year with pretty much everything.
    After that time I took a measurement on it and it was now a 0.5 (a little larger, but there you go).

    This was a full year and 30+ spools of (various) filament.

    So, yes, they can and will wear. It is worse with 'abrasive' filaments? Sure, but it is not a 'sudden' thing.
    Obviously is you only used abrasives then it will happen faster and if you are only or largely using abrasives then a hardened nozzle is a no-brainer.

    You might be shocked if you bought cheap nozzles and took a pin gauge to them from the start since I have seen 0.4 that was REALLY A 0.55 OUT OF THE BOX. :)
     
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  15. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Chuck Erwin You are not as big a hypocrite as I am. I don't have any hardened nozzles , but I bought a dozen brass nozzles and I have been swapping them out and throwing the old one in the recycle bin every two months regardless of any indication of wear. As you know I do a lot of stuff to my Robo, especially testing new versions of the firmware. I am nowhere near the production level of @Geof, but it is still a fair amount. My statement still stands, if you are going to do any significant amount of printing with filled abrasive filaments a hardened nozzle is a good investment.
     
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  16. Owl

    Owl New Member

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    I knew you guys would surpass my expectations (is that an oxymoron?) - thanks for your discussion, it made me a lot more confident about what I am getting in to. I'll look around at hardened and brass nozzles, I can see situations where I would like the option of either; both sides to the discussion had valid points. T-glase seems like it's still obscure. You guys all seem to have your sea legs but I haven't heard a lot of opinions about it., other than Geof.
     
  17. Owl

    Owl New Member

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    I have a question, if I do this does the glass-on-glass connection lose a lot of heat by the time it gets to the top piece of glass? I am imagining a heatsink connection on a processor - should I use some kind of thermal conductor paste or something if I use a pane of glass on my glass print bed? Also, do I need to get tempered or non, or does that matter at all?
     
  18. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Nope :) just clip it on and print like it wasnt even there buddy.
     
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  19. Chuck Erwin

    Chuck Erwin Active Member

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    I don't really like making recommendations because what works for me may not work for you. But here is what I did.

    I have used tglas and petg on the robo and my mk2. I used a lot of stick glue and relatively small surface areas. The idea is to create a barrier so you can use water to disolve it to help separate it from the bed. Also I have used talcum powder very lightly to make a barrier and less sticky. Too much and nothing sticks, too little get the hammer and chisel (jk sort of).

    I have not used glass on glass so others can weigh in on that.
     
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  20. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    So i bought a tempered one...very expensive....now i find windows or mirrors on the side of the road and use a 2.00 glass cutter and make my own lol
     
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