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ROBO 3D R1+ Plus w LCD screen?

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Coach Tom, Sep 12, 2015.

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  1. Woodrow Collins

    Woodrow Collins New Member

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    So being a complete new guy to this printing . Were exactly is this? I dont see a config.h file in the adriano source. I do see a configuration.h. Or is this a change in your slicing software that needs made?
     
    #21 Woodrow Collins, Oct 19, 2015
  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Woodrow Collins Printed Solid mis-spoke, all configuration items are located in Configuration.h, including defines to enable the XXL.
     
    #22 WheresWaldo, Oct 19, 2015
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  3. Woodrow Collins

    Woodrow Collins New Member

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    Yeah I believe I have tracked down the lines that you would use in the configuration.h file. I guess im still stumbling on the calibration portion. I see the line that says this:

    #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,2560,723.38} // default steps per unit for RoBo 3D R1

    which is the x,y,z,e settings. but it was recommended to change the z to 800. Is that the case? Thats a drastic drop from 2560 and when I do I generally get bed scraping and issue's with movement. Leaving it at the settings that above I get the following for a calibration square (which looks terrible).
     

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    #23 Woodrow Collins, Oct 19, 2015
  4. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Steps are listed in this order X, Y, Z, E so if you replaced your 8mm threaded rods with the stepper upgrade, or have a R1+PLUS the third parameter would change from 2560 to 800.

    800 is the correct number for the +PLUS.
     
    #24 WheresWaldo, Oct 19, 2015
  5. Woodrow Collins

    Woodrow Collins New Member

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    Thanks. Ill keep playing. I just checked my box and it says its a Robo 3D R1 +PLUS on it. But like I said, whenever I put it to 800 I get feed failures as the head is to close to the bed. So far Ive had to pull it back to 1700 to even begin to not have distance issue's. I'll fire off a test print with some custom settings i've been tinkering with.
     
    #25 Woodrow Collins, Oct 19, 2015
  6. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Woodrow Collins, If you are speaking of the first layer, this isn't the right way to do it. There is a Z offset that needs to be set in startup g-code, that tells the printer how much below the glass the printer moves before triggering the endstop. In you G-Code look for a line that says something like
    Code:
    M565 Z-0.8
    That is the Z Offset and may need to be adjusted. More negative means higher from the bed in the first layer. If it's not there then that is your problem. Set the steps back to 800.
     
    #26 WheresWaldo, Oct 19, 2015
  7. Kenneth Apthorp

    Kenneth Apthorp Member

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    Just finished setting up my LCD controller. Plug and play on the R1 plus. Just needed to disconnect the Robo SD card plug to make it happen. 20151019_181538.jpg
    20151019_184903.jpg
     
    #27 Kenneth Apthorp, Oct 20, 2015
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  8. Coach Tom

    Coach Tom New Member

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    Thanks.

    Yes, I actually have modded mount and legs a small bit for a tighter fit and the legs snaps into the printer case very tight and will not easily come off without force. The pic shown was of a first print and looks like it''s not firm. I've tried many design without bearings and just was not satisfied. Either case, this has worked great for me.

    I also have just upload yet another tool holder which works for me at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1081548 I printed several layouts so pic maybe a bit different from actual model. Maybe someone has a use as well as me.
    Enjoy all! 20151020_075107.jpg 20151020_082759.jpg
    20151020_075228.jpg
     
    #28 Coach Tom, Oct 20, 2015
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  9. Coach Tom

    Coach Tom New Member

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    Follow up pics as promised on XXL display. It was just plug and play for the XXL display, no need to compile or change config.h.

    20150912_180144-1.jpg 20150919_095628.jpg 20150919_095109.jpg 20150919_102925.jpg 20150919_102953.jpg 20150920_205942.jpg
     
    #29 Coach Tom, Oct 20, 2015
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  10. Woodrow Collins

    Woodrow Collins New Member

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    Awesome thank you very much. I changed the settings back and also the gcode in matter control had no z offset. I have since installed cura and am giving it a shot. I think my speed settings are a bit low (created another thread in the general section) as the first layer is moving so so so slow. But ill see how the print does.
     
    #30 Woodrow Collins, Oct 20, 2015
  11. Lyconthrous

    Lyconthrous New Member

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    I really like Mike's swivel mount for the XXL LCD. 1 thing you should add is a fan to blow across the ramp board. A 50mm will fit with the bottom on, but I had a 60mm with twice the cfms so that's what I used. From what I've heard the LCD causes the ramp to overheat, so a fan is a must.

    Sent from my SM-T530NU using Tapatalk
     
    #31 Lyconthrous, Oct 21, 2015
  12. Coach Tom

    Coach Tom New Member

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    #32 Coach Tom, Oct 22, 2015
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  13. Woodrow Collins

    Woodrow Collins New Member

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    Thanks!
     
    #33 Woodrow Collins, Oct 23, 2015
  14. Christopherlange1110

    Christopherlange1110 New Member

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    Did you guys see the edu version r1+? I have one and it has a mks-tft on it. there is a wifi module available for it on amazon ans win give you web printing. If your budget cant condone a rpi this is the next cheapist thing.
     

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    #34 Christopherlange1110, Jan 2, 2017
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  15. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Thats very interesting!
    Thanks for sharing !
     
    #35 Geof, Jan 2, 2017
  16. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Funny, Robo called me last year and asked about that very screen and how it worked and was set up. At the time they were kind of disappointed in the lack of functionality the screen offered. I am surprised that is the route they decided to go. There are also better set's of icons and Makerbase (MKS) who makes the controller also has a 3.2" as well as Bluetooth and Wifi modules All available at the cheapest pricing on their AliExpress page here: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1047297

    3.2 TFT Touchscreen Controller
    WiFi module for the Controller
    Bluetooth module for RAMPS boards

    They have other stuff too. One note, the Touchscreen is more like the Full Graphics controller than like OctoPrint, especially if you do not have the WiFi module. It basically allows simple interaction with the printer and displays output from the printer. Without the modules it only has an SD card reader and USB input. It can also be configured to work with Repetier and Smoothie firmware.

    Since these boards do not technically interact with the Marlin firmware there is no editing and recompiling of firmware needed. It actually is more plug-n-play than a full graphics LCD smart controller. Marlin doesn't control the controller like in those others, this basically sniffs all the messages that Marlin sends out its serial interface and does its own translating.

    Just one more thing with Makerbase, they produce boards based on Open Source designs but do not release any source code or design specifications back to the Open Source community. That might be important for someone to know.

    PS, @mark tomlinson, you should know I would have had one of these controllers. Still yet to implement it permanently on any printer but it is up to date on firmware 1.2.0 (Makerbase TFT GITHUB).
     
    #36 WheresWaldo, Jan 2, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2017
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  17. Christopherlange1110

    Christopherlange1110 New Member

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    This is a makerbase tft module. When i got the printer i shoved a card in it from my kossel that has the same screen and forgetting had the update firmware on it updated this on an corrupted the icons. Went to the github page for the firmware and wola! It is working agian. Changed the icons and the boot logo to say robo3d instead of the stock green reprap logo wit chinese letters on it. It is basiclly a very limited slow one app rpi board with a tft stuck to it. You can control pretty every function of the printer. I put in the wifi and it works great. You can change any icon and add more to it as well uses a txt file for configuration like a smoothieboard.
     
    #37 Christopherlange1110, Jan 3, 2017
  18. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    The only similarity between this and an rPi is that they are both ARM based. But I am happy it is working for you @Christopherlange1110. There is another guy who created a set of icons that I think are nicer looking. They are located here: https://github.com/majurca/MKS-TFT28-NEW-PICTURES. The images work on both the 2.8 and 3.2, just don't confuse the firmware between the two.

    At one point I even did my own set of custom icons for this screen.
     
    #38 WheresWaldo, Jan 3, 2017
  19. Clayton

    Clayton Member

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    Hi Christopher,
    I've had the full graphics display since I bought my RoboR1+ and it works great. I have bought the 2.8 TFT and from reading about the display it says you can not use the WIFI adapter as it will pull too much power. How did you get around this?
     
    #39 Clayton, Feb 24, 2017
  20. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Clayton, there is a different power input you can use for the screen, if you need it to turn on when you power the robo a few extra parts will do this for you.

    A buck converter and a power lead with a 2.1 mm power jack should do it. The buck converter will convert the 12 v from the robo power supply to 5 v and then the lead of course attaches to the buck and plugs into the side of the LCD

    Chinese links:
    Amazon Links:
    Adjustable DC-DC Buck Converter
    Power Lead (no one really needs a 10 pack of these but it was cheaper than a Prime single)​
     
    #40 WheresWaldo, Feb 25, 2017
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