Unanswered I'M BACK(With a broken heated bed) Upgrade recomendations?

I was going to update the firmware soon, but I figured I'd wait until I install the leadscrew upgrade and not have to upgrade it twice(cause I'm way too lazy for that).

One last question just came to mind. Should I bother trying to reuse the magnets from the broken bed, and if so, how? Or should I just get some new magnets?

Anyway, Thanks for all the help guys! When I get the aluminum and install it, I'll post some pics! Some pics of my incredibly disorganized work space with filament and stuff everywhere!

 

Okay! Got the heater off. One small problem I think. Just look in the picture. I think where the bed cracked it cut the heater? Maybe not, but It doesn't look like it will work. But I did get the cork off in one piece!(mostly)

Also, can anyone tell me where to find more of that silver tape(or a replacement) that I had to take off before I got to the cork?


I just got an invoice from Robo3D for a bed(With heater) for $60. I'm thinking to go ahead and get it. I would like to mess around with the aluminum, but as I said, I do need it working ASAP, so this way(I'm assuming my heater right now is broken) I have a working printer, and I can print larger pieces without warping. That would allow me time to figure out a way to make the aluminum bed removable. That Is one of the things I was wishing I had a couple times so I could easily clean off the bed, remove parts, etc. If I get around to it I hope to post a guide or something on how I did it.

BTW, the guy who sent me an invoice recommended using PEI until the bed arrives. Ha! As If! I attached a picture of the break. That is pretty much how it was sitting on the print bed, except the tape on the bottom held it on.

 

In the interest of avoiding a broken bed, What happened to break it?
$60 for a replacement is awesome in my opinion, I was thinking much more.

 

I had just got another bottle/can of hairspray, I was trigger happy because the old hairspray didn''t come out well. So I put way too much on, let a print go on over night, got up the next morning and tried to get the print off and pulled half the bed with it. I estimated the print finished 5 hours earlier, around 5 A.M. and I tried to get it off just after 10. A.M. I had gotten around half of the print off, then just tried to pull the rest of it off.

Lessons learned:
1. Don't just try to pull of the print, but use more of a twisting motion(hoping and trying to not break the print)
2. Be careful on how much hairspray is used.

Also, while I'm here, I noticed that the heater itself had some sort of glue that attached it to the bed. Do I need to re-apply?

Thanks!

Edit: I also measured the magnets on the bed with my calipers. Diameter of 10mm and it's 3mm tall

 

Okay! Got the aluminum, I've got the heater on the back of it, and it works great! However, it does take a while to warm the aluminum up, and the thermistor is on the heater, not the bed. So I found this GCode: G4 P600000 that will make the printer wait 10 minutes until it starts printing. Does this seem like a good idea?

Also, when applying the JB weld, should I just put the magnets down into their magnet holes on the Y carriage, and then set the bed down evenly-ish?

Thanks!!!

-Eric

 

I think I'll look into that glass idea. For now, should I put painters tape on the bed for adhesion? hairspray? Nothing?

Edit: What about PEI sheets? From what I see, parts are supposed to be easy to pop off after cooling. Plus, wouldn't constantly heating and cooling a piece of glass break it?

 

Nice thread guys, I broke my glass bed last week after apparently getting the ratio wrong for PVA glue wash and trying to get a big PETG print off. Just ordered the Al bed, PEI, and 3M adhesive so can't wait to stop screwing around with tape and glue stick.

I used a site called onlinemetals.com, and ordered sheets of 1/8" and 3/16" thick. I use sheetmetal quite a bit a work and 1/4" for a piece that doesn't really take any load is huge, so the thinner material will help reduce weight/shorten the heat up time with the stock heater. The Mic6 only came in 1/4" thickness and up so went with the Aluminum 1100-H14 grade, never used it but it was cheaper than 6061 (not as strong) and used in heat exchangers because it has better conductivity than most of the other Al grades. It was free shipping with both items so I got 2x Al beds for $45 after everything including custom cut to 10"x15" size, instead of buying 1 plus shipping for what would have been the same price. If you are interested here is a promo code for 5% discount as well they sent for making my 1st order: T27H3E

I'll let you know if I have issues, thanks again for the good discussion so I could steal all of your ideas.

 

I had a lot of issues with ABS, but starting wrapping my Robo with Aluminum foil to cover as many of the air gaps as I could and keep the heat in, including the top. Shiny side in, and don't forget to leave space so the bed can translate in the Y direction. After that, & running without the fan (I even turn the room fan off so there is no air circulation) I have never had a problem even with larger parts even with the stock heater.

 

Whats up! I took a bit of a hiatus, I'll summarize. Christmas, Sick, Robotics Team(Still doing the robotics team).
I finally got the heated bed replacement from Robo, and I'm planning to use that until I can either get my hands on some float glass, or I break this one too(Please no).
I love the aluminum, but I was having tons of problems getting the print off the bed after it was finished, and I also want to make the whole bed be removable. I guess the float glass is more or less a solution, but I want to do more research on that, as well as figuring out how to actually attach that to my bed easily.
I plan to start on that as well as install my Z rods after my robotics team's season is over, which is (hopefully) not soon, because we have many parts that are 3D printed, and I'd like to ensure a working printer. Just in case, ya know?
I must say, wiring it was a lot easier than expected. Which is good, because I wasn't able to get any wire mixed up this way.

Anyway, rambling now. Thank you all for suggestions and everything!