Solved Power Supply or Arduino?

Keep reading back until you find the actual error message. I suspect it is "Temperature fell too much during print" but you need to confirm that. Marlin is stupid since rather than repeating the actual error it simply keeps repeating the unhelpful "An error occurred"

 

There are a handful of other errors that will shut everything off so you need to find the error message to confirm which one. The one I referenced is the most common. It is not normally a bad Arduino either

 

Sure, the dimming could be an indication of the power supply failing. However that may not be connected to the error.
That specific error is aggravating. I have one Robo that routinely would get it and another that never does. In both cases they are running E3D hotends and the metal Stud thermistors (which screw into the heater block so NO WAY it is loose).

The power supplies are not expensive if you want to go and replace it.

30a (360w): https://www.amazon.com/EPBOWPT-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B01IMOS20A
33a (400w): https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-AC110V-Switch-Supply-Driver/dp/B019RNKOK6

I would use the second one personally.

 

As for avoiding the TEMP FALL error, marlin is brain dead in how it ignores the temperatures during the auto-leveling routine.

You can try something like this as the startup code to help:

G28 X0 Y0 Z0 ; home all axes
G29 ; probe the bed
M109 S[extruder0_temperature] ; set the extruder temp and wait



This is simplify3d specific in how it gets the value of the temperature variable. Other slicers will have their own format.
It uses: extruder0_temperature where others might use: temperature Check the docs for whichever one you use

 

The Prusa machines are all really well done (some assembly required -- which is NOT a BAD thing.... you will know how to fix it)
The I3 mk2 is really nice. http://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/59-original-prusa-i3-mk2-kit.html

@Geof has more machines (a LOT more)
He might have other suggestions.


edit: It is available assembled and tested: http://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/53-original-prusa-i3-mk2-3d-printer.html

You will notice that the parts on the Prusa are pretty much the same as the Robo

 

I can't suggest a robo like printer better than the mk2 machine @mark tomlinson mentioned above, I have one and it just works and well!

If you tell me what your budget and needs are I may be able to recommend other machines. If I have one of the machines your interested in I can print you a sample

 

Lol I'm not "that" guy am I?

 

You are now.
Some folks collect 'cats'

 

Fair point...not the crazy cat guy so im ok lol

 

Well, I did warn you

Usually it is either the themistor loose or damaged. Sometimes it is due to too much air blowing on the hotend from the PARTS fan (which is supposed to blow air on the print, not the hotend). Try disabling the fan and see if that helps, if not it is probably the thermistor. Make sure it is firmly in-place and can not move.

 

The R1+ has a set screw that holds the thermistor cartridge in place.

I do not know of a source for those themistor cartridges other than Robo so you need to contact them if you want a replacement.
Other cartridge style thermistors are a different size.

If you just want to make sure it is tight then check the set screw. It probably is, but checking never hurts.

 

No, Most thermistors are a tiny glass bead... and fragile.
Robo switched with the R1+ to a canister type.
So the thermistor IS the brass tube.
There is a set-screw that holds it in place.

If it is in place then it is more likely the thermistor is faulty than loose/out of position in teh heater block.
The heater core is not part of the thermistor. The heater block is not part of the thermistor and the nozzle also is not part of the thermistor. The nozzle, the heater core and the thermistor are mounted into the heater block.

Here is an example of the heater block: