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0.8mm vs 0.25mm nozzle

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by Marquis Johnson, Jun 25, 2015.

  1. Marquis Johnson

    Marquis Johnson Active Member

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    Now that my Z banding is a thing of the past I can print with nice solid quality!
    The Low poly bulbasaur was printed with a:

    .8mm nozzle at 400 microns and took only 15 mins
    .25mm nozzle at 100 microns and took 2 h 30 mins

    No Z artifacts as far as I can see. I think the chase is finally over. IMG_5670.JPG
     
    KTMDirtFace, Phenom3030, Gabe and 2 others like this.
  2. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    great looking prints!
     
  3. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    Those damn couplers. Print looks good.
     
  4. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Marquis Johnson, did you replace the couplers on both your Robo's, just the original, or just the newer R1?
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The difference in quality/resolution between the two is much finer than I would have thought.
    I know when I tested 0.8 against 0.4 it was not terribly noticeable. You could see it if you really looked hard.
     
  6. Marquis Johnson

    Marquis Johnson Active Member

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    Both, but I sold the newer one to my buddy. But he has all the upgrades I have. (I upgraded it before I sold it to him)
     
  7. Frankn

    Frankn Member

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    Well, I call them as I see them.
    The one on the left as viewed has definite horizontal bands or layer presentations. That must be the .8 print.
    It would probably show more on a smother object like the test cube.
    Just an observation.
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    OK, @Frankn which if these it 0.8?
    The other is 0.4

    Good test because both of these are less than 1 inch across.

    test.jpg
     
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  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    and they are un-tocuhed up -- straight off of the printer :)

    I keep test samples around for comparisons.

    One is PLA, 170C 0.8 volcano
    other is PLA 195C, 0.4

    (same spool)
     
    #9 mark tomlinson, Jul 2, 2015
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2015
  10. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    Can I play?
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Actually, that is sort of a cheat since if I flipped them over to expose the first layer you can see the width difference easier :)
    Once it gets flowing though, it is really hard.
     
  12. Frankn

    Frankn Member

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    OK, this is a tough call because the filament is transparent enough to show layers below, but on the cone portion, the one on the left as viewed appears to display more banding. As I stated, the test cube would give a better display of variations with it's flat sides. Jest my observation. Frank
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You can see from the bottom side. Same arrangement, just upside down. This gives it away. The first layer is the 'tell'

    These were done as part of tuning the nozzles a while back. I always test a spool to find my best settings with a small model like this.
    I have way too many of these floating around :)
    But is is a nice material compare sometimes. The Stainless one came out looking awesome.

    test2.jpg

    Once 'dialed in' you seriously can't easily tell the difference (and 0.4mm is a tiny difference).
    You do have to get it calibrated.
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    This is a better test model for various reasons. It stresses a lot more of the calibration edges for the printer. Too hot, too cold, too fast, too slow, not enough retraction, etc... easier to tell with the fine details. True, if all you want is to see that you can print then the cube is good enough. This is a small enough object that it prints quick which makes testing easy.
     
  15. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Link to that test model Mark?

    I'm always printing cubes and other random stuff. that seems better and a quick test?

    And I would have guessed the left one was .8 from the nubbins/dingleberrys hanging off the edge of the base layer? other than that I cant tell.
     
  16. Marquis Johnson

    Marquis Johnson Active Member

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    Alright, so I scaled the print up 1.5x turned retratction off. @Frankn how's it look now?
    IMG_7866 - Copy.JPG IMG_7867 - Copy.JPG IMG_7868 - Copy.JPG
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:66175

    It is a 15 minute or less print. Sort of depends on speed and nozzle size :)
    But yes, quick.
     
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The more you tune it the better/closer it will look :)
    I think it looks good.
     

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