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Solved 2nd printer and can't get the printing right

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by aznhlfan, May 19, 2017.

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  1. aznhlfan

    aznhlfan Active Member

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    I just got my 2md R1++, and the file, settings, temp. are the same as my other R1++, yet I'm having trouble with the prints on the new one. Yes it was a refurbished, but I spent a week going through everything to make sure nothing was still damaged. All the rods are straight, no problems with any bearings, belts are tight. I added an XXL lcd but I have one on the other one as well, so I print both from an SD card. I added some other mods as well, but nothing to extravagant (feet, cooling, quick filament change, reel holder). Could it be that the firmware needs updating? It shows on the lcd ROBO3DR1V3 ready. My other one shows ROBOR1PLUSV2 ready. Settings for both are below:
    Extruder temp. - 209°
    Bed temp. - 45°
    Layers - .2
    Fan on after 2nd layer
    Z offset - .5

    The blue lcd is my first R1++
    The yellow is my new R1++
    And the calibration cube is from the new R1++[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

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  2. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    Did you calibrate the extruder on the new R1+? And adjust the E-Steps accordingly? May want to look into Stepper Driver Calibration as well, if you have not already (more than likely not the issue though).

    According to this mess (http://guide.robo3d.com/Wiki/ROBO_3D_Firmware_Release_Notes?lang=en) it would appear the V3 firmware is for the Original R1s, which makes no sense because the V2 firmware is for the R1+, I guess. How do you go backward in versions when creating something new?

    I use my own version currently because the "new" V2 firmware for the R1+ had like 4-5 changes and 1 actually caused issues, if I remember correctly. I think @danzca6 made a comparison of the 2 versions. But you may have the wrong version uploaded depending on the leadscrews you have as well.

    I am moving to Marlin 1.1 right now with MESH leveling and I would suggest you do the same to both machines, and skip the Robo versions. Use @WheresWaldo version instead.
     
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  3. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    If it was me, I would check things in this order
    1) Check/clean hobb bolt and tension spring settings
    2) Check the stepper driver setting for the extruder motor
    3) PID tuning the hotend
    4) Use cleaning filament in the hotend or do an atomic pull to help get any gunk out from previous owner and rule out a micro clog
    5) calibration of extruder steps
    6) print the cube again and check for tolerance to see if measurements are off

    I agree with Ryan about messing with the Robo released versions of the firmware. If you want a Robo version, go with the leadscrew upgrade version to avoid some slop they introduced with the newest for the R1+. Otherwise, go with the 1.1.1 Marlin version that @WheresWaldo posted. I prefer the MESH version, but the ABL version is available as well. Of course, if changing firmware should be on an as needed basis. I know once I get mine dialed in I like to keep it that way and not introduce more work if I can avoid it.
     
  4. aznhlfan

    aznhlfan Active Member

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    The problem is I have orders coming in for work and experiment on both. I need 1 to print as well as it did a couple days ago, before I screwed up and flashed the firmware. I flashed v2 and that was what was on it, but I changed the esteps when calibrating the extruder, now nothing works. Even going back to the original esteps doesn't work. So there must of been changes even in the v2 firmware. I wouldn't mind going to the Marlin 1.1.0, but I need at least one of the 2 to work, the newer Marlin would probably take some tweaking just to get it to print.

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  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Do. Not. Use. The. V2. Firmware.

    This gains you essentially nothing and has been discussed elsewhere on this forum.
    Rollback to the original firmware and just change eSteps and whatever else you need there.
    Here is what is essentially the original: http://download.robo3d.com/firmware/R1/ROBO3D_LEADSCREW_V1.zip

    Ignore the name :) It was named for R1 users who would be doing the upgrade from steppers with threaded rods to leadscrews (which is what the R1+ came with)

    There were no changes that amount to anything in the v2 R1+ firmware.
    When you want to really make a difference and have the time to invest, go to Marlin 1.1.0
     
  6. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    For future reference, I always run an M503 before I attempt a firmware update. That way I can save off any of the main settings so I can go back and check out what might have changed if I have issues and need to rollback. Another thing is to issue an M502 and M500 after flashing to reset the EEPROM with any new settings that might be in the firmware.
     
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  7. aznhlfan

    aznhlfan Active Member

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    If I can get 1 of my R1+ up and printing good again, so I can print parts for work, I can experiment on the 2nd of my R1+ printers. So I should flash this firmware Mark, even tho the Robo website says not to use this if you have a Robo R1+?

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  8. aznhlfan

    aznhlfan Active Member

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    Esteps is all I need to change right now, as long as I can get back up printing. I have an order this morning that needs printed out

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  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Suit yourself :)
    That is essentially the R1+ v1 firmware. You can compare the configuration.h file from that version to yours if you want.
    Look at the Z axis steps/mm since that is the key difference.

    Nothing else much matters since all of them are v1.0 of Marlin.
     
  10. aznhlfan

    aznhlfan Active Member

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    K, done I will flash the v1 firmware right now. Marlin 1.1 will be another bag of potatoes when I get there, lol. Do I flash the Marlin 1.1 the same way, with the Arduino IDE?

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  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The printer firmware is not and never really will be the certain solution to an uncertain problem.
    What I mean is that if you do not know exactly what you expect to fix by uploading new firmware -- don't.

    Generally speaking it is never a firmware issue regardless. There is almost always a more direct answer than "upgrade the firmware".

    People just don't realize how similar every single version of the firmware is to the next. THERE ARE NO MAJOR CHANGES not from the first version Robo posted until the most recent for the R1+ (ignoring the C2/R2 since those are on Marlin 1.1.0)
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes.

    Edit the configuration.h like normal to make any changes you need from the default (like eSteps)
     
  13. aznhlfan

    aznhlfan Active Member

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    Got it

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  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Marlin 1.1.0 gives you more options which is why @WheresWaldo has a few more options for downloads he has staged (like MESH leveling for example).
     
  15. aznhlfan

    aznhlfan Active Member

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    I still can't figure out why Cura will not extrude. But for now I will use Mattercontrol, since I need it to print ASAP

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  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    No clue, you can drag through their forum if you want to chase it.
    I use to change back and forth from one free slicer to another because certain types of models had issues with each.
    I no longer chase slicer issues. Model issues? Yea, nobody is perfect :) but those are all me/us.

    Sometimes there are features I wish existed, but that is not the same as dodging bugs.
     
  17. aznhlfan

    aznhlfan Active Member

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    Looked through forums for a couple hours last night (late night), found nothing. Even called Robo tech, they were absolutely zero help.

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  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I would not expect Robo tech support to be the Cura experts.
    Remember they (Robo) have not developed any slicer software...
     
  19. aznhlfan

    aznhlfan Active Member

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    Yea, it was for Cura, asked them about firmware

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  20. aznhlfan

    aznhlfan Active Member

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    Flashed back to v1 like you had said Mark. Printing a lot better, but I didn't change the esteps so that might be why

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