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3d Printer Make Shootouts (no FDM manufacturer limitations)

Discussion in 'Off Topic' started by daniel871, Jun 12, 2018.

  1. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    This is a placeholder OP for a thread where everyone can show off Makes that they are proud of, or post comparison makes from different machines for comparison purposes.

    Post your Slicer settings so that apples-to-apples comparisons can be made between machines.

    To start things off, here is my current log of Makes, details for printer used/etc. in the details for each Make: https://www.thingiverse.com/daniel871/makes

    After I'm finished printing the parts for https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2952297 I will move on to this next Thing for an actual comparison print against @Geof 's R2.

    Simplify3D claims that this thing:

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:956649

    Will print in 11 hours and 37 minutes at .2625 layer heights with 15% infill. *just* inside the 12-hour print request for comparison prints. We'll both probably be waiting to start on the comparison prints until Monday though because of currently-running prints.

    8 Solid Top Layers, 8 Solid Bottom Layers, 4 Perimeters and Automated Supports turned on. No Raft (because "why?"), all other settings default S3D parameters.

    I would create a Poll, but I figure the logistics of deciding which of each print is the better one can more simply be kept track of based on how many Likes a post gets that shares the given Make (if a moderator has a better idea they can feel free to edit in polls later on).

    Everyone else feel free to participate as well!
     
    #1 daniel871, Jun 12, 2018
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2018
    Geof likes this.
  2. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Just FTFOI, printed that Maker's Muse lattice whatchamacallit at .2625 layer height and it is ugly, but since it is supposedly difficult to finish anyway here is how it turned out.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Also, here is a test Marvin keychain in ABS using the standard settings and same layer height.

    [​IMG]

    I should also note that everything I post/share in this thread/on Thingiverse will be as-printed with no post-processing of any kind other than detaching supports (for the prints that need them).

    Currently printing the "torture egg" also by Maker's Muse.

    The models for each of those can be had on Gumroad for about $1. Normally I'm not a fan of paying to download a testing model, but I've had some entertainment out of watching Angus's videos over the last couple years and I figure $2 is more than a fair price for that even if the models themselves may not be.
     
    #2 daniel871, Jun 14, 2018
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2018
  3. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    link me ? Or dm me the file?
     
  4. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Sent you a DM with links, but I don't know how well they'll work/if they depend on client-side cookies for access.

    The forums couldn't handle uploading the STL files.
     
  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @daniel871 what are your slicer settings other than layer height? It isn't really a fair comparison if there are too many variables.

    Curious, why was 0.2675 mm layer height chosen. With the C2/R2 you really can't use that exact layer height as it results in odd fractional steps.

    I am asking just for background, comparing my R2 to your printers is not really useful since mine is heavily modified from stock. This is more to get the playing field level for anyone else that might want to join in the fun.
     
  6. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Anything that I don't specify is essentially "whatever Simplify3D has as a default setting when you start with a fresh profile (for my 3d printer). The base settings can be viewed by looking at the profile here: https://www.mpselectmini.com/slicers/s3d

    Sorry, that should've been .2625

    And it's from the list of "Optimal layer heights" that someone calculated for this printer based on the stepper motor step values listed in EEPROM, the motor details when looking at where to buy them from a third party and the screw pitch.

    The full list (except for the even more ridiculously thin layer heights) is:

    0.0875
    0.13125
    0.175
    0.21875
    0.2625
    0.30625 (top end, not really recommended either)

    I ignore the ones with more than 4-digits because you can't enter them in Simplify3D.

     
  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Okay, just a note 0.2625 is not an optimal layer height for the R2, so are you allowing slight modifications to the layer height, for instance the R2 with the steppers and linear stepper used for Z is full steps on 0.02 mm increments, otherwise it is fractional steps.

    0.22, 0.24, 0.26, 0.28 all fall on full step boundaries. So are you okay if your printer is set to 0.2625 mm and @Geof sets his R2 or C2 to 0.26 mm. Although the difference is minimal, remember that electronically controlled microsteps cannot be guaranteed on any platform.
     
    #7 WheresWaldo, Jun 14, 2018
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2018
  8. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    I'm okay with layer heights that are within +/-.00Xmm of each other, if the limitation is full-step distances, yes. I just don't want people going to odd fractional-step layer heights because a lot of cheaper printers don't actually maintain partial-step positioning after a timeout period (actual .1, .2 & .3mm layers don't actually happen on full-step positioning very often anyway, IIRC).
     
    #8 daniel871, Jun 14, 2018
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2018
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  9. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Updating with some prints (I haven't forgotten about the thread).

    Slicer settings same as in the OP, but with a filament I haven't used before (Nova Maker PLA in a light blue color). It's a bit stringier/runs a bit more than MakerGeeks PLA, but whatever, I'm not adjusting retraction settings since I'll go back to Makergeeks after using this spool up.

    The boat is Marv, and the little guy is of course Marvin.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And he fits in the foot-holders like he should.

    [​IMG]
     
  10. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Just printed the old planetary gear print (that my old R1 could never print without fusing the gears together). As soon as I figure out how to move a video from my phone into a GIF I'll add it to show the gear working.

    The remixed thing itself is here

    [​IMG]
     
    #10 daniel871, Jul 18, 2018
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2018
  11. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    #11 daniel871, Jul 19, 2018
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2018
  12. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Also printed this calibration test.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Everywhere there is a stated dimension, that dimension turns out to be accurate within +/-.002" when checked with the calipers I have at my desk at work (and the angular surfaces are also accurate when using a digital angle gauge zeroed out on the front surface). Pretty good, but there appears to be some issues with zits/blobbing/extrusion overlap that I need to figure out (even if there are no explicit stringing/retraction flaws now)
     

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