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ABS on the R2

Discussion in 'Filament' started by Gary Boyce, Jun 17, 2017.

  1. Gary Boyce

    Gary Boyce Member

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    I have the R1+ and am waiting on my shipping for my R2. I can print small stuff in ABS on the R1+ but anything larger than about 50mm curls badly. I have tried many things with temp and make-shift enclosures, but nothing has made it any better. I am wondering if anyone is using ABS on the R2 yet, and how its going with it.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Still effectively an open bay printer, but not as open as the R1 series :)
    At a guess I'd say printing it will be much the same (not a heated chamber after all).

    Perhaps someone has actually done it and can chime in. It has been forever since we printed it (too many better alternatives).
     
  3. Gary Boyce

    Gary Boyce Member

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    What are the better alternatives?

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Well, now that requires me to know why you wanted to use ABS :) What property (or combination of properties) does it have that you want. I assure you it has NO property (or combination of properties) that is not better in an alternative with possible exception of price.

    Material science ! There are a LOT of choices out there these days too.
     
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  5. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    I've just bought my first roll of ABS filament. I was hoping it would work nicely with the R2. I'll see how it comes out next week.
     
  6. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    I've done this big one, key was the huge brim (20mm or so).

    20170702_204223.jpg
     
  7. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    That is beautiful! Did you go and edit some settings in Cura to make the extra big brim? I’m very new to 3D printing.
     
  8. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    Possibly, don't remember... On the right when you're in "Custom" mode each category title has a gear icon that appears when you hover the mouse over the category "title". Click that, and you'll get to a page where you choose which subsettigns should be visible. You'll have one that's Brim width, tick it to add it to the visible stuff.

    I've also made a calibration cube also with a big brim that came out nice. That's all I've done in ABS so far, rest is PLA / PETG / TPU / wood / copper.

    Kinda still don't "trust" ABS yet though so if I have to make something I don't want to risk too many failures like now I've got to do something for a customer for tomorrow I just throw PETG.
     
    #8 Kilrah, Jul 14, 2017
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2017
  9. Todd Wessendorf

    Todd Wessendorf Active Member

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    I added a hood. ABS prints well for me now, without curling.

    20170701_140057.jpg
     
  10. Daniel Roussel

    Daniel Roussel New Member

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    The R2 is my first printer and I have not printed in ABS yet. I got a spool of ASA though and have had successful prints with it. I have had no warping and no layer delamination at all yet. I am printing at 245C with the bed at 80C. Only important thing is to use glue stick (haven't tried spray net yet) on the bed as ASA is almost fusing to PEI otherwise. I know as I made a ding in my bed trying to remove my first ASA print from it, while totally destroying the print... I got ASA instead of ABS as it is supposedly ideal outdoor being weather and UV resistant and will not yellow over time.
     
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  11. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    One lesson learned: when using a hood similar to the one above: don’t think the PLA printed filament tube clips will hold up to the heat in the chamber. See orange clips in attached photo. I’ll have to reprint them in ABS. Makes sense now, but not at the time.
    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
     
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  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You can use BluPrint since it has a higher transition temperature than ABS or any other higher temperature filament.
     
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  13. Beard_cula

    Beard_cula New Member

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    Wow, those clips are not the gcode my machine had on it. I don't even know what mine was supposed to really look like as it came out totally fused to its supports that were encasing it.
     
  14. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    An error in an update messed up and replaced the correct clips file by a meaningless thing nobody knows what is.
     
  15. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I am about ready to do @Kilrah's bed modification until Robo ships the new style beds. I cannot get the bed temps consistently over 80°C without running into an error. Even doing a PID tune at 80°C took several restarts before it completed successfully.

    I am managing to get my first print done in ABS, 10 mm brim, 240°C extruder, 80°C bed, 60 mm/s print speed. It is the fan duct design I posted in projects. No warping so far and I am about 25% complete. Just hairspray on the PEI bed.

    Note: I cannot get a print to actually start with an 80°C or higher bed temp without first pre-heating the bed before starting the print. It is very annoying.
     
  16. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    Have you installed the firmware with the edited max bed PWM? With that you should get 100° without error, although I tend to set my prints to 90 or 95 target so they start a bit quicker (then increase to 100 once they've started) and also preheat.

    I doubt the bed mod itself changes anything to it, it's just for contact reliability - for heating performance the key was really the firmware change. Back then I did it myself and recompiled, but I believe I read Robo has done it in their own branch now?
     
  17. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Kilrah you should know by now that I don't use the Robo supplied firmware.

    [RANT]I looked at what changes were made in their version of Marlin and what they did was change the defaults in their first version then restored them to "fix" the bed heating problem. There is a lot of stuff that the code monkeys at Robo waste time on like stripping out Marlin code that never compiles into the .hex code thus not reducing the code size even one single byte. They make a lot of changes to Marlin code that they only revert back at sometime later since there seems to be a lack of understanding of how the firmware and compilers actually work. Instead of messing with Marlin, they should focus their limited programming skills on making RoboLCD bulletproof, fixing the stuff like resetting EEPROM to firmware defaults when you run the Z Offset Wizard. Why force settings to be read from a file at startup when they are already in EEPROM. Why are they continuing to use the oldest and most incomplete leveling scheme Marlin ever created (LINEAR) when much better schemes exist (every other one).[/RANT]
     
  18. Gary Boyce

    Gary Boyce Member

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    I just got the new build plate with buildtak on it. Now I can print ABS no problem. You just have to make sure you clean it after every print with alcohol.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
     
  19. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    I have noticed that I had to replace my buildtak already 3 times, think it is due to delamination caused by the higher temps of ABS, both the bed and filament coming out. But I agree, it works well.

    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
     
  20. Gary Boyce

    Gary Boyce Member

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    That really sucks. What bed temp are you using?

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