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ABS on the R2

Discussion in 'Filament' started by Gary Boyce, Jun 17, 2017.

  1. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    My bed temp for ABS was 80 on the first buildtak. Then 75 for the second and third.

    An interesting difference is Robo tells you to cool the print to remove, while Buildtak says heat the bed to aid in removal and reduce stress on the buildtak surface.

    Who knows ?
    I stocked up on buildtak before Robo decided to bump up the price.




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  2. Gary Boyce

    Gary Boyce Member

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    I have printed 3 ABS models and not seen any problems with the buildtak. I'm using 100 on the bed. When I remove my prints, I keep the bed hot and use the pry knife robo sent with the printer and set it firmly flat on the bed and tap on it with a small hammer keeping it flat the whole time. I don't pry on the print to remove it.

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  3. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I have the same issues with BuildTak as @supercazzola so I am going back to PEI or at the very least experimenting with it. The sheet they use is 0.80 mm thick and the new bed doesn't have the aluminum strip around the outside edge so you need about 230 mm square to cover everything. Since the likelihood of having to remove the bed from the plastic frame is next to none there is no reason to have the notches for all those screw heads accessible. I plan to just use a square piece with rounded corners (approximately 9/16 radius)

    If I am not happy with the PEI I will have a thin sheet of 0.125" (3.2 mm) glass cut and use it as a build plate with all the normal methods of adhesion that glass calls for.
     
  4. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    Waldo, won’t that cause issues with the z-height IR sensor ?


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  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    The IR sensor works just like the remote control on your 5 year old TV. If you live in a typical house with white walls you know you can point your remote to bounce off the wall and still change channels, so why would this be any different.

    With regard to using glass, the aluminum bed is anodized in black so it would work the same as the current black surface.
     
  6. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    but wouldn't the glass be on top of that black surface (as in between the sensor and the detecting surface)? I was assuming the platform would raise too high before detecting the black surface, and break the glass with the tip of the nozzle.
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is an IR sensor... It may or may not see the glass as effectively.
     
  8. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Still shouldn't be an issue
     
  9. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    I thought it would see through the glass, and think the height is "down there" and then raise the bed up too high, causing an issue. I guess I am wrong. I never tried it.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It depends :)
    Some will see the glass reliably, some not so much... most of the ones I have seen used for this type of stuff will see the glass.
    The IR reflectivity is what matters and For most glass there should be enough backscatter to work. I honestly don't think it will be a problem, but someone will let us know :)
     
  11. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    It doesn't matter where it triggers as long as it is higher than the nozzle. The Home Offset will take care of the rest. That is how Marlin is designed after all.

    Don't overthink this.
     
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  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Agreed, but it does need to "see" the glass or it will not level (it will drive the head into it). Again, I think the one Robo uses should be OK with a thin layer of glass and you adjusting the offset. You will be able to test that :)
     
  13. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    No issues testing it to see it is works, but I am still swapping to PEI first.
     
  14. JeffreyB

    JeffreyB Member

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  15. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @JeffreyB I am about to do the same thing, go back to PEI from the BuildTak, Although I am having no delamination issues. It is mostly a dislike for BuildTak, my personal feeling is that it is much more temperamental with regard to bed adhesion than PEI, either it doesn't stick at all or it sticks too good, nothing in between.
     
  16. Paul1967

    Paul1967 New Member

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    Any way to get instructions on how to build your hood?
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  18. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I have had a bit of success printing ABS on the R2, but now I am looking for a suggestion. I am looking for anybody that has used transparent/natural ABS. I have been printing a lot of prototype kind of models and even though translucent isn't clear, you can still see how it is filled. But now I need a few ABS prints.

    Any brands recommended?
     
  19. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Hey Waldo. I use Ultimaker brand ABS (for 2.85) but all other machines I really like Esun Natural ABS. I have a few others I've used but that one isn't as "white" as usual transparents so gives a nice idea of the infill as well as helps hide layering issues. (natural prints like a champ)
     
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