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Solved After Lead Screw Upgrade Installed, Layer Skip Occurs

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Acclamator777, May 29, 2017.

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  1. Acclamator777

    Acclamator777 New Member

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    I just installed the lead screw upgrade kit on my refurbished R1. It prints out really good now. No more Z banding. But now I am encountering a layer skip on the X axis. Not ever time though. I'm trying to print out the Baby Groot model and started noticing the X axis skip.
    The first pic is my first attempts at printing the head. You can see the layer skip and they are not at the same height. Groot Heads_resize.JPG

    Second pic shows third attempt which turned out very good. No layer skip. Clean Groot Head Print resize.jpg

    Third pic shows the body which skipped. Groot Body resize.jpg

    Any ideas as to what might be causing this. As stated never had this issue until I installed the lead screw upgrade kit.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    X or Y skips is always a drive train issue for the axis that is skipping.
    one of the following is true:
    1) belt tension is incorrect (too loose or way too tight)
    2) drive cog for the belt is loose where it attaches to the stepper
    3) something is getting in the way and physically blocking travel
    3) stepper driver cards or stepper motor is going out making it loose steps (this is unlikely if the entire layer shifted in one direction)

    Those are pretty much the order to check them in too.
     
  3. Acclamator777

    Acclamator777 New Member

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    IBelt seems to be ok but I took a look at the motor and noticed that it looks like fluid in the bottom hole of the stepper motor
    stepper motor 1.jpg

    and should there be a small screw holding the cog on the stepper? stepper motor 2.jpg
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Probably grease lubricant from the stepper bearings. Not a great sign.
    Yes, there should be set screws (at least one) holding that cog on or it will move.
     
  5. Acclamator777

    Acclamator777 New Member

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    Is it possible to replace the motor with one of the original Z axis motors I replaced with the lead screw upgrade kit? Or do I have to get a special X axis motor?
     
  6. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Motors are interchangeable, as long as the shaft is 5 mm.
     
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  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yep, all of the original steppers are interchangeable on the Robo.
    You can certainly use one of those.
    Make sure the cog is tight (set screws can use loctite -- I did that on all of mine)


    My beta originally arrived with just about every set screw on the machine loose...
     
  8. Acclamator777

    Acclamator777 New Member

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    I will get to work on it! I will reply to let you know how things went and hopefully things will be working well. Thanks for the help!
     
  9. Acclamator777

    Acclamator777 New Member

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    I replaced the stepper motor because it looked like the bearings were going out. I did a test print and all seemed ok. calibration test.jpg

    I then tried the Groot body again and it started to skip again. I missed the first layer skip after the first couple of layers. Then the second occurred later and started to extrude plastic off the main print. You can see the first layer skip in the fingers. pic1.jpg pic2.jpg

    I did hear a very brief grinding that caught my attention. That's when I saw that the layer had skipped. I stopped the print and as mentioned before because it was starting to extrude off the main print. I did replace the nozzle about two weeks ago with a steel plated nozzle that doesn't tighten flush with the heater block. Not sure if that could be the problem that is the nozzle tip striking the print. And I just installed the lead screw upgrade kit. Never really had any issues other than the Z banding before installing the upgrade kit. The belt looks ok. But is there a way to see if it is to loose or too tight?
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The nozzle does not have to be flush with the heater block. It only has to be tight against the heatbreak inside the heater block. That is what prevents leaks.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The grinding is the stepper trying to move a belt and failing. Either because it ls loose or because something is blocking the carriage

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
     
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  12. Acclamator777

    Acclamator777 New Member

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    I added a belt tightener and it's printing great. Thanks you all for your help!
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.
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