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Any success (or failure) with R2 and NylonX?

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by adikted2astro, Jan 28, 2019.

  1. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    Looking for some pointers. I have to print some rather large parts and I want to do so with NylonX. But I have never used it before. I've read that PVA on glass is good for adhesion, but I'm a little worried about the hotend temp. Last year, I was printing parts with TPU, which has a very high extrusion temp. I ran into a problem with the extruder because it apparently got too hot and just stopped pushing the filament through the hotend. I really don't want this to happen halfway through a 20 hour print. I have some heat sinks on the back of the extruder housing and I'm wondering if I should attach a fan to that heat sink.

    Anyways, any help would be appreciated. I've also got some Colorfabb XT-CF20 to work with.

    p.s. I was going to use Robo CF PLA, but they stopped carrying it! That sucks because it really prints well.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    We probably have some, but I have not yet used the NylonX
    ColorFabb XT-CF20 we have used -- hot bed (100c is what we used) and 255c for the extrusion temp (yours will certainly vary a bit).

    I have not tried it on the C2 (or R2), but f you were getting heat creep you might have a bad fan.
     
  3. Larry Garrido

    Larry Garrido Member

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    I print with NylonX a lot on my R2, probably 5-6 rolls through it now and it prints beautifully! My R2 is modified with an E3D V6 and Titan extruder but it shouldn't make a difference if your using the Hex.

    One of the biggest things I did that greatly helped with clogging (especially with PLA) is I added a fan to the back of the extruder motor to keep it cool, I haven't had any heat creep or jamming issues since I added that fan, even Proto-Pasta CF-PLA works now and I could never get a complete print using that before.

    For NylonX don't use the normal "purple" glue stick. for NX or any other Nylon I use the Elmers Craft Bond glue stick, it holds the nylon down well, if your printing on glass use a good size brim. NX sticks very well to a garolite bed surface also, I typically dont even use a brim when printing on garolite, just a (very) thin coating of Craft Bond.

    On my printer I print with a .5 nozzle typically at 0.1 or 0.15 layer height depending on the size of the part, I'll go up on the layer height for larger models. I print at 265c for nozzle and 85c bed if printing on garolite and 95c if printing on glass.
     
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  4. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    Yeah I've been through about a dozen rolls of NylonX and it's working beautifully. I'm actually printing with slightly different specs: 260C hotend, 70C bed (with glass). I have continued to use purple glue stick because it really works well for my printer.....really well. So well in fact that when I printed a really large part on it, this happened:
    20190223_092148.jpg

    After this, I cut down on the amount of glue I use and dropped the bed temp to 70C (it was 85C for this print). This of course only happened 15 minutes before the end of the print. You can see how it screwed up the top layer. Print took a total of 23 hours. This was so bad that I couldn't even get mad at it. It also took a hammer and a 3 hour hot water soak to get the glass off the part.

    I did add a fan and heatsink to my extruder, which works amazingly; no heat creep whatsoever. I'm also using the new NozzleX from E3D and I have to say I'm a huge fan of it. I think I've printed about 2 kg of NylonX and 1 kg of CF PLA through it so far, with plenty more to come. It does work as advertised; doesn't wear down at all from what I can tell. I love this material, regardless of the broken bed. That was my fault for using so much glue.
     
  5. Larry Garrido

    Larry Garrido Member

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    Yikes! I dont think I have had the need to print anything that large with it yet and I mostly print on Garolite, I have used the purple glue sticks too but I would still get some warping on the outer edges of some parts, NylonX is actually low warping in my experience, less than ABS for sure. The Craft Bond isn't quite so necessary with NX but when I print with Nylon 6 it really holds it down well.


     
  6. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Just a quick note, unrelated to filament. If you do a Google or Bing search on NylonX and have SafeSearch turned off, please don't be shocked at what comes up at the top of your search results.:eek:
     
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  7. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I'm very curious...but not enough to do it lol.
     

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