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Back to issues again...

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by colton81, Mar 4, 2017.

  1. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    so after several issues a bunch of them i have been able to pin point and resolve. Now on to the ones i havent.
    1st bed leveling is a major issue. When i do any print the first layer is horrible the extruder is about 3 bussiness cards away from the bed. Causing the first layer to not lay down properly and ends up fixing it though after about the 3rd or 4th layer. But when trying to do bed leviling test prints obviously i cant because without a raft it wont stick at all do to it being to far from the bed. I have tried increasing the - value setting the z offset closer and it seems to. Ot remeber the setting for the first few layers. Also have tried changing settings in cura.... which doesnt work either.
    2nd about half way trough the prints i can see that the extruder is jamming its self into the material which is causing the layres to not be proper. Im assuming this is because the begining layers are not correct and causes the issues later down the road.
    3rd 24/7 customer service just doesnt help and when i try emailing it takes 3-4 days to get a response and its simple 1answer to the multiple questions i sent. ( have you updated to the latest update) they spread this answer over an entire paragraph.... i am not able to call during normal bussines hours right now and thats why i rely on emails.
    4th the plast bed is now starting to warp after about 30 prints. Im not sure why they thought a plastic bed would be good other then the fact that you could bend it a little to get it to pop the print off. But over time it start warping.

    These are issues im stuck at. I want to at least beavle to get the test print to print properly for the bed leviling to make sure im good but bot sure what to do next. Robo seems to me almost like Apple they have good intentions good designs but there not quite there yet. Customer service needs to improve. And the quality of their products need some improvements as well. I have high hopes for them but they seriously need to focus on more quality products and better QC inspections before the printer leaves their facility.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It sounds like your leveling is not happening correctly.
    Should sample 9 points. Is that working?

    I manually tweaked my Z offset to get it perfect myself. I just adjusted it with the LCD until it was perfect.

    Maybe start by flushing the flash eprom settings and starting again.

    You use a GCode terminal from OctoPrint and send it an M502 then an M500
    Then go back and redo the Z leveling wizard (using the sheet of paper).

    Lastly if that doesn't get it perfect then you can manually adjust the Z offset via the LCD in tiny increments (0.01) until it is as good as it gets.

    As for Support from Robo -- a phone call is your best bet. Their business hours may not be the same as yours (unless you are in Southern California).
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    We can help get you going, but it will be a slower process via the forum.

    Stick with a simple 1 layer print like the one attached until you get it leveled.
     

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  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Plastic is fine given the PEI sheets they put over it and that the nozzle should not be in direct contact with the bed. If it has little defects on it use some sandpaper and then reapply the PEI sheet.

    I will admit to getting a head crash a time or two myself (when the nozzle drives itself into the bed). Minor issues, replace the PEI sheet and back to printing.

    Worst case if it is really warped they can replace that bed.
    It pops in and out, but you are going to need to get in touch with them to replace that under warranty.

    Heck I may see if I can just buy an entire one from them as a spare. Not sure what their status on spare bits is yet.
     
    #4 mark tomlinson, Mar 4, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2017
  5. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    Thanks for helping out on this. Yes it does the 9 points of leveling. When you say using the lcd to manually move the off set are you meaning by the z axis wizard? As far as tge gcode im new to this so not 100% sure about reseting the eprom. I know in octo print i see where i can input the gcode so i just send those two codes and it flushes it? Then restart the z axis?
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    No, once you have run the wizard it will store the calculated offset in the EEPROM.
    You can find this in the LCD menu :

    UTILITIES -> OPTIONS -> EEPROM -> Z offset

    Just like in the GCode it seems that more negative is further from the bed -- however test this out in very small increments.

    Yes. Those two GCodes in that sequence will reload the EEPROM settings from the defaults in the firmware configuration.
    So it will wipe out the existing saved configuration and load the "default". Then if you redo the wizard it will store that setting in the EEPROM when it is done. You can see what it saved by looking through the menu path I mentioned above. You can also edit it there :) Again I would suggest very small increments and testing...
     
    #6 mark tomlinson, Mar 4, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2017
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I have not had to modify mine very much, what the wizard stored was something like -5.0 and I ended up adjusting it to -5.1

    (and as a side note: I totally love how everything is easily reachable from the LCD. Our Delta printer stores a snootful of stuff in the EEPROM and in order to tweak it I have to disconnect the Raspberry Pi and connect the printer control board to a computer and then use MatterControl or something similar to make adjustments.... Royal pain. They don't use a custom LCD on that one, just a RepRap Discount unit and while handy it is nowhere near as functional.)
     
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  8. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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  9. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    Well still working on getting it leveled something is way off though the z wizard said it was -4.6 which was way off to what i had before -5.1 but i did the manual method and got it to -5.3 but when i removed the bed to pull the material off and go at it again i had to adjust it to -5.2. And the center of the bed is definitely warped when it prints the outside is close to what i want it at but the center is way to close and just smears the fillament. Im going to try to get it perfect on the outside edges and then see if i can try to apply a small amount of heat and push the center bed in. If i cant im going to contact robo to see if they can send me a new one.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I would do that anyway. At least you will have a good one (and a spare that can be fiddled with).
     
  11. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    Yea im going to do that. So im getting closer to getting this right but for somereason the extruder is not priming before printing. What gcode do i need to put in for it to prime? Ever since i updated to the newest version the priming function went away for somereason. I know skirt is for that but it used to prime at the very front of the bed.
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    What firmware did you use? Where did you download it from.
    I have not updated the firmware at all on my C2, no need as there are no real changes yet.
    They have a beta version out there, but...
     
  13. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    Yea i thought that was part of the problem i was having. Im running 1.1.4 at least thats what the C2 says under update
     
  14. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    Ive sanded down the bed and got it close to level as possible. Messed with the z axis a little. And its helped. I still cant print a single layer with at least one part messing up but it is better then it was before. The metal bracket that the bed attaches to seems to be bent so thats another issue that im just not really going to beable to fix. After looking over the machine more im thinking the ball bearing on the Z axis that keeps popping out is causing issues to the leveling ( hence the reason every print is unleveled differently ). Calling Robo today and hopefully they can either get me new parts or let me ship this one back and they send me a new one.
     
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  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I have let the RoboOS part update itself. I just have not updated the firmware.
    Good luck, I trust Robo will help make it right for you, but if you run into difficulties let myself or @Geof know.
     
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  16. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    Well i called them during bussiness hours and it was no help they told me i needed to make an appointment. I got it dialed in but it keeps changing everytime i start a new print. Has anyone noticed when you cancel a print the extruder stays in the exact same position it doesnt move. I hear 1 click and then the printer thinks that the bed moved all the way down so when you try to move the bed down it doesnt move i have to turn the printer off or pause the print then cancel then move the bed to home position before i can move it at all. Its like the software is glitching out and think the bed was moved all the way down when it wasnt.
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    No, that is not right.
    You really need to get them to sort that out.
    It should not change every print (something is changing mechanically in that case).
     
  18. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    Just curious i was looking around inside my C2 making sure everything was connected and saw a hdmi. Could i connect this up to a different display or would this screw something up?
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You could connect the HDMI port to something without breaking anything, but I am not sure it would actually do anything.
    I have not tried that combination. The Pi is set to use the I/O bus for the screen... it may or may not work with the HDMI as an additional screen. There is no hardware reason that it would not work, but it might monkey with the LCD code they have running. You can try it, it would not be fatal :)
     
  20. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    Im gonna give it a shot just have to figure out how remove the fan and see if i can find a way to get the hdmi in there and move the fan back some. I cant really use it untill they call me back tomorrow so might as well see if i can use the hdmi to upgrade the touchscreen or something.
     

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