Solved Bad Print Quality. Request advice.

Thanks Geof - nope. No room and no part of the actual hexagon part of the nut sticks up. Nothing at all to grab a hold of. I ended up being able to pull out the quick release which then allowed me to push down on the assembly and up on the screw so I could get a wrench etc on it, but it isn't coming out no matter what. Not sure how they did it, but they put this thing in angled and screwed it up. It's in there I am 200 plus pounds and can't move it Even when I get a bite. I might have to cut it and have them send me a new assembly. I am very not happy about this. What is the size of this bolt and nut. M4? and what is the length?

 

M4x24mm long should do it. I normally get the pan head phillips.

 

Thanks again everyone for the help. I am back up printing. Here's the fix. I also printed out a new greg's body until I get a new one from Robo. Doesn't look as bad as I thought.




I also leveled the bed with the paper circles under the magnets. Worked like a charm!



And of course, my test print - Go Hawks!



Now for the nozzles....

 

Glad to see it working again after the bad bolt/nut issue. Glad it was a fairly painless fix for you. Now you need a seahawks blue and grey alternating wire chain links for the wiring harness off of the x carriage to dress this thing up a bit.

 

Oh, and I want to see a print of the original plane you did at the beginning of the thread to see if the fans helped with your PLA cooling issues.

 

Thanks Danzca. Because I am a glutton for punishment - I decided to tear it all apart again and put the new wade's body and nozzles on as well. I have finished the swap of the body, is there anything I need to be aware of when reasembling the body? I made sure the hob bolt wasn't too tight and the gear spins with the stepper freely. I also adjusted the filament tension screws to the same length as my son's, but will probably have to make sure it's not chewing up the film when I reinstall.

 

Sounds like you are doing what you need to do. You are doing great. I would like to see a pic once you are done of your new fan shrouds. Your son is going to want the same upgrades.

 

Absolutely. I'll send pics tomorrow when I get done. Going to take a bit of a break tonight. I'm pooped lol. Thanks again for all the great advice!

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Got the carriage and assembly back together. The rest goes back together tomorrow. Also adding some LED strips to the top and a a switch to control them.

 

Looks great! Those shrouds look great. Adding the LED strips was an awesome upgrade for being able to feed in filament and see prints. I also have a separate switch for the lights. Long prints, no need to keep them on unless you are doing a time lapse or monitoring your print remotely using a web cam.

 

That's exactly my plan - to wire them to a separate switch I'll install somewhere. Where dd you run the 12v to? I assume direct to the PS - correct?

 

Actually no...maybe I should...but I added it to the 12V on the RAMPS. The PSU is probably a better option. Put a disconnect so that I can remove the lid and not have the wires in the way. The switch is mounted on the side of the base for easy access.

Switch: https://amzn.com/B008X10YRC
LED Strips: https://amzn.com/B00EKPOG10

I ran two strips up each side of the inside front of the lid and two running right to left on either side of the slot on top of the printer. Very bright compared to the little ones included from the factory.

 

That sounds exactly like my plan as well. I am going to use a two prong molex as well so I can remove the lid without issues. I'm also planning on mounting the switch somewhere near the USB port if there is room. I do think I'll run the 12v to the PS though.

 

Since I no longer use the SD card slot because of using my LCD, that is where I put mine...bigger hole of course.

 

Ahhh. Makes sense. That's where I am running the cables for the LCD.

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Hey guys - is it normal that when this thing is put back together I have to adjust the e-steps again and recalibrate the extruder? I ask because I was pretty spot on before I replaced the wade's body, but now I am underextruding consistently by a little bit (95 instead of 100). I know how to do the calibration, just wondering if I SHOULD have to as a normal thing after replacing the body. Thanks!

 

Great question. I'm worth you in thinking that wouldn't make for a needed to calibrate again. Now if you had printed the new gears That came with model I can address that needing calibration. Maybe it has something to do with the slight tension variation on two bolts with springs. Or maybe there is a change on the tension of the hobb bolt and bearings. It was a very small change in extrusion so hard to say really.