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Bed Can't Get Above 90Deg Before Error

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by JeffreyB, Jun 23, 2017.

  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Same answer as before
     
  2. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    If you look at the G-code, the 230 comes as part of the commands that extrude the test line. Perhaps they want the head really hot to do the test line, and push out any bad clogs or crappy filament, so they heat it up that much. But shortly after the line finishes you should see the desired temp be set.



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  3. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    For the OP, Robo is aware of the issue and is redesigning the print bed and doing away with the Pogo design. I was told this by someone at Robo.


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  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, that matches my last conversation with @Jerry RoBo 3D as well. I know this is a priority item for them.
     
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  5. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    What's weird is that after the "tell" line is printed on my C2 (@ 210C) it goes immediately into printing the raft without really waiting for the temperature to settle on 190C. I would have thought that it would set the new target temperature and wait until it's there. (Cura)
     
  6. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @OutsourcedGuru that is the M-code used, you can force it to wait with M109 and dwell M400. That way it will print the prime line and then wait until it cools to the temp you want before continuing.

    Well it will be close to your chosen temp, it will move toward your target until it is close and as long as it is stable (or cools very slowly) it will continue with the print.
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yup, all of that is in the OctoPrint startup GCode section -- have at it.
     
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  8. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    That is why I moved the startup code into the slicer, which knows the temp you're going to print at and can thus do the priming line at that temp.

    My guess is they simply didn't think of it/figure it out, so just set a high enough temp on the priming line as a "spray and pray" method so it doesn't cause trouble with the materials that need hotter temps.
    I don't see any point to doing the priming line warmer, all it does is cause oozing, which promptly "unprimes" the extruder while waiting for the proper print temp to be reached.
     
  9. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    You know... I'm thinking that this could be a reason for the front/left of all my rafts not adhering correctly. I'll have to test that theory, of course. o_O
     
  10. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    And then it does that vertical pull-off while it's still extruding...? Maybe that's so that you can easily snag it off of there.

    Mine almost NEVER starts laying down a line until maybe 50% from the left (X60 or so) even though it starts at X0. Is it not extruding soon enough? Is my bed tilted? It eventually adheres mid-way and prints a nice flat line. That thing annoys me.
     
  11. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    You probably need to play with your retract settings at the end of the print. Best practice to is retract so that you don't ooze all over at the end of your print, but a consequence is that it isn't quite ready to extrude when you reheat the hotend.
     
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  12. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    What he said. The filament is purposefully retracted to empty the nozzle, so obviously it needs a while to fill it back before material starts coming out, and that's about half the line.
     
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  13. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    Okay... then I'm going to adjust the startup GCODE to extrude for two seconds before starting the "tell". (As well as a few other things.)
     
  14. Kris Holland

    Kris Holland New Member

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    Good news! (not) Got the new pin board, which was sent via Jupiter on the slowest turtle known, and the problem _isn't_ fixed. Same error. They did send me two, but neither solves the issue. When I go to preheat the bed, it shows 0C; assuming the bed thermistor is fried, or something else. <sigh>
     
  15. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Sounds that way. Get them back on the horn to see what they want to/can do. I'd almost suggest swapping the unit to avoid further headaches.
     
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  16. spanishcop

    spanishcop Member

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    Well.... I'm in the same boat as many of you..... Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: Bed.

    I've set appointment with tech support after calling them on the phone. I've been reading this thread and I'm assuming nothing new from ROBO3D reference a new version or a fix other than the replacement parts?

    I downloaded the link one of you provided for the Marlin Firmware, but I'm holding off to see what the tech says. My Pins are not that bad in shape yet as some of the pictures I've seen on here. Mine begins the calibration and when it reaches the 3rd or 4th point on the bed it just stops and throws the error.

    Wished there was an easy fix. :( Miss using the printer.

    Worse come to worse, this wiring mod that someone posted.... is that still working for you? Is there a youtube video on this that may explain proper way of doing this and any concerns that we should beware of. Being that so many people are experiencing this issue, I figured a youtube of this fix would be great if it is a solid fix.

    Mike
     
  17. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    That wiring mod looked slick, btw.
     
  18. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    Don't know what wiring mod you're talking about, but if it's mine then yes it still works perfectly.

    You won't see a Youtube video from me though as I absolutely hate video turorials.
     
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  19. spanishcop

    spanishcop Member

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    Yes I was referring to yours Kilrah. Is that a special tape you applied to hold it in place and what is it called, where do you get it? The wires are bare around the metal corners correct? Anything else to keep in mind... Please share.... As this may be a fix I may have to revert to eventually until they find a fix at Robo3d.


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  20. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    Wires are stripped and soldered to the edges of the magnets/nuts after a little filing, as easy as it goes.

    Tape is Kapton tape, common in anything 3D printing. Strong and sustains heat particularly well.
     
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